best at removing sludge?

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How do these compare? 5w/10w-30

Can you rank:
Penzoil Ultra ,PP
mobil 1
mobil clean 7500/Mobil Super (name changed)

Penzoil yellow vs other conventional
 
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There are adherents for all the ones that you list. My personal experience has been that a good synthetic (like the ones you list) will do well at cleaning...personally?

I use what I can find on sale...I am brand agnostic...but the PP is usually available for a reasonable price, and so it's often recommended.
 
PU is better according to SOPUS , any will be perfectly acceptable to clean. No oil can fix a totally sludged motor though.
 
I drive a Jaguar X-Type 2.5L. The engine is known for producing deposits.

It's become clear (over the last 10 years) that standard Mobil 1 5W and 10W-30 allows some minor deposits to form. Yet, when I switch to Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck, the engine is again spotless inside.

Guess what oil is going back in today? Yup, M1 5W-40.
 
Its not on your list but G-OIL now has over 4,000ppm of Calcium.... Id say that has to be able to remove sludge pretty good.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I drive a Jaguar X-Type 2.5L. The engine is known for producing deposits.

It's become clear (over the last 10 years) that standard Mobil 1 5W and 10W-30 allows some minor deposits to form. Yet, when I switch to Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck, the engine is again spotless inside.

Guess what oil is going back in today? Yup, M1 5W-40.


I would not use a 5W40 unless your manual calls for it. Find a better 5W30 or 10W30.
 
Originally Posted By: volk06
Its not on your list but G-OIL now has over 4,000ppm of Calcium.... Id say that has to be able to remove sludge pretty good.


G-Oil also has esters which should help the cause. Even if it doesn't clean up deposits left behind by other oils it's not going to contribute to the problem. See the back of the label - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2730961&page=1
 
If you suspect a sludge problem it is best to try and remove the worst of it physically first. That can be a messy long job, but as a bare minimum I would at least clean the sump and make sure the feed to the oil pump is clean.
The next thing to try is a safe oil flush like the Liqui Moly sludge remover that is added just before the oil change and the engine then left to idle for 15 minutes. Don't risk any additive that you drive around with.
Once you have flushed out the engine then choose a synthetic or high mileage oil with lots of Calcium and then change it again after only 1000 miles.
 
What if you have been running a conventional or semi-syn oil in your engine since day one? If you put the PP or PU in will it clean the engine the first time,making it to where you have to drain the dirty oil from all the deposits that are in the oil now?
 
good to see you here on bitog, cathy; we are "unbalanced;" here's looking forward to more frequent postings from you; i agree with the g oil idea; it may work too well, calling for shorter oci's and even short filter changes; how about a purolator classic-cheap and effective (trap that dirt!)
 
Any of the above.
If I suspected sludge, I'd try to remove a valve cover to verify it.
Sludge is usually the product of oil run too long, allowing oxidation to overwhelm detergency, or a bad PCV system or both.
Any oil changed on short intervals will gradually clean up the engine, from what I have seen.
I'd lay in a stock of some FAR oils, like Nextgen and G-Oil, as well as some decent filters bought cheap after discount, like P1s, and plan some 2-3K oil changes.
I'd try to avoid short trips with the car.
After a few short runs, which should greatly reduce the amount of sludge, and assuming that the oil pickup screen is clear (easily verified in some installations, but there are others where removing the oil pan is a major project), I'd maybe try a short run with Kreen, which should clean out everything that remains.
I might also price out an exchange or used engine, in case the patient dies during treatment.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I drive a Jaguar X-Type 2.5L...


I would not use a 5W40 unless your manual calls for it. Find a better 5W30 or 10W30.


That would be a proper suggestion anywhere else in the country. However, It's roasting hot most of the year here in South Florida. I drive very hard, AND, these engines are known for wearing out, then spinning rod bearings. The solution is and has always been a more robust oil.

In addition, the cam phasers are very sensitive to sludge buildup. The M1 5W-40 TDT keeps the engine perfectly clean and the cam phasers trouble free.

There is no doubt the engine runs better and is more responsive on the M1 5W-40 TDT. My UOA results also show far fewer wear metals while using it.

Plus, for my climate, guess what viscosity is required for this car in other countries? Yup, you guessed it. 10W-40 synthetic.
 
Best at removing sludge with no damage to engine for me has always been Pennzoil/Quaker State drop in engine flush, run for 7 minutes and then drain overnight. Next morning fill with Castrol Syntec, but now I use Pennzoil Ultra instead of the Syntec. Never had an issue and valvetrain and internals are spotless with absolutely no wear.
 
Originally Posted By: TurboJim
Originally Posted By: volk06
Its not on your list but G-OIL now has over 4,000ppm of Calcium.... Id say that has to be able to remove sludge pretty good.


G-Oil also has esters which should help the cause. Even if it doesn't clean up deposits left behind by other oils it's not going to contribute to the problem. See the back of the label - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2730961&page=1


If you look at the "scorch the earth" thread....where oils were cooked at 400C for 1 hour in a round bottom flask...all the esters produced the MOST sludge. Just saying.
 
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