Rotella 10w-30 dino CJ-4 6.5k miles; Dmax LBZ

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Originally Posted By: Bambam
Didn't mean to hi-jack, have no evidence to prove my case. I stand corrected.

My apologies for mucking up your thread.


Bambam- No apology necessary from my POV. Plus, I did more to steer this into a hijack than anyone. And please don't mistake my spirited arguments as any sort of personal attack against you or anyone.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: Bambam
Didn't mean to hi-jack, have no evidence to prove my case. I stand corrected.

My apologies for mucking up your thread.


Bambam- No apology necessary from my POV. Plus, I did more to steer this into a hijack than anyone. And please don't mistake my spirited arguments as any sort of personal attack against you or anyone.


No offense taken.. I have tremendous respect for both you and Dave, sometimes my internet knowledge and my ego get the best of me. Point taken on the filters which will in turn help keep my wallet a little fatter.
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I'm almost certain that on my 09 Dmax the vehicle tells me when to change the trans filter. As it seems to tell me everything else.

I just follow the book, and that leads me to follow the olm.
 
I believe I read somewhere that there is a 30 micron screen on the solenoids in the Allison's. Although I generally agree that premature changing of filters isn't beneficial may potentially cause issues, I don't think it is excessively wasteful to change your filter earlier in this application(Allison autos) based solely on the fact that you would to keep the filter out of bypass as much as possible in order the any potential issues arising in the valve body.

Based on the wix/napa 7701(I use this one) beta ratings of 2/20=15/25 or 50%@ 15 micron and 95%@ 25 microns. The Donaldson, who I believe makes the Ally filters, P550606 has slightly better beta ratings of 2/75=9/25 or 50%@ 9 microns and 98.67%@ 25 microns. The filtration margin of error already looks already looks pretty thin IMO.
I understand there are no combustion by products here but you do get clutch material in the fluid that are not captured by the magnet, so again IMO, there is no harm in this situation changing your Allison spin on filter early, within reason of course. I see no issue if you wanted to follow Allison's 12k mile severe service filter schedule(TES 395) even if you qualify for the General usage schedule.

P.S. Here is the Donaldson Info: https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/WebStore/search/item_detail.html?item=419139
 
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Originally Posted By: 3311
I believe I read somewhere that there is a 30 micron screen on the solenoids in the Allison's. Although I generally agree that premature changing of filters isn't beneficial may potentially cause issues, I don't think it is excessively wasteful to change your filter earlier in this application(Allison autos) based solely on the fact that you would to keep the filter out of bypass as much as possible in order the any potential issues arising in the valve body.

Based on the wix/napa 7701(I use this one) beta ratings of 2/20=15/25 or 50%@ 15 micron and 95%@ 25 microns. The Donaldson, who I believe makes the Ally filters, P550606 has slightly better beta ratings of 2/75=9/25 or 50%@ 9 microns and 98.67%@ 25 microns. The filtration margin of error already looks already looks pretty thin IMO.
I understand there are no combustion by products here but you do get clutch material in the fluid that are not captured by the magnet, so again IMO, there is no harm in this situation changing your Allison spin on filter early, within reason of course. I see no issue if you wanted to follow Allison's 12k mile severe service filter schedule(TES 395) even if you qualify for the General usage schedule.

P.S. Here is the Donaldson Info: https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/WebStore/search/item_detail.html?item=419139



I agree; the Donaldson looks a bit better in efficiency.

As for the combustion byproducts versus clutch material, my point is that soot is FAR more abrasive than clutch material could ever pretend to be. Soot also agglomerates (cojoins and becomes ever bigger) if there is no dispersent additive. Since there is no combustion process in a tranny, there is no soot to deal with for a tranny fluid. Clutch material (to the best of my knownledge) does not exhibit this agglomeration trait.

I do disagree with your comment here:
"I see no issue if you wanted to follow Allison's 12k mile severe service filter schedule(TES 395) even if you qualify for the General usage schedule."
If by "no issue" you mean excluding the topic of cost, then perhaps you're right. But cost is a MAJOR factor to most of us. And when there is a huge amount of proof that says overly-frequent filter changes do NOT improve filtration, then why ignore a factor that could save someone 3-5x more money? When studies and real world data and common sense all point to the fact that filter performance actually improves with age, I fail to see the logic of "more = better". I cannot comprehend the mantra of "new filter = better filter".

You mentioned that a concern would be to keep the filter out of bypass. Is it your position that Allison ignored this topic when spec'ing their filter? Is it your mindset that Allison's OEM FCI of 50k miles under routine service is going to send the filter into bypass? I find that untenable, to be blunt.

Like Jim said; everyone has the freedom to do as they choose, and that's the way we all prefer it to be. But I, for one, do not accept mythology and rhetoric as fact when data and proof state otherwise. What some "feel" and "want" is a lot different than what is "viable" and "needed".

Consider these two statements:
* "I use synthetics and change oil/filters every 10k miles. I realize I'm wasting money, but I'm OCD and it makes me sleep better at night." I could accept that statement because it's an admission of emotional committment, and not logic.
* "I use synthetics and change oil often because it's better." Better than what? Where is the proof of better, in relation to some other option? What criteria were used to define "better"? Wear and cost are paramount in the decision process.

To say it's OK to change out any product much more frequently than required, with no regard for cost, is to mislead people who seek good, solid data to make clear headed decisions. Some people come to this site to actually learn about products and make informed decisions, and we owe them the fair, open response that acknowledges both fact and opinion.

In short, I can accept that OCD fluid/filter maintenance habits make people feel good, but I do not accept the premise than the practice leads to "better" equipment protection because every shred of evidence points to a conclusion otherwise.
 
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Dave,

You mention how you hammered on the engine. But I have a quick question. Did it get up over 100 F. The reason I ask is that 10W30 is spec'd for the Duramax in temps ranging from 0-100. So if you operated within these parameters I would expect nothing worse than your report.

Now if you saw temps 100+, and still hammered on it, maybe we can change some minds, to include mine
smile.gif
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Kevin
 
As long as a functioning coolant to oil oil cooler is in place ambient temp for the most part is a mute point.

I have noticed with my own 6.0 running this past summer in 105f coolant temp rose a couple of degrees and of course the oil temp rose at the same rate. The coolant is regulating the oil temp in these trucks.

When I am running down the highway at 70 mph my oil temp is consistently 7f-9f above coolant temp.

An example;
coolant temp 194f
oil temp 201f
 
Originally Posted By: KevinsDMAX
Dave,

You mention how you hammered on the engine. But I have a quick question. Did it get up over 100 F. The reason I ask is that 10W30 is spec'd for the Duramax in temps ranging from 0-100. So if you operated within these parameters I would expect nothing worse than your report.

Now if you saw temps 100+, and still hammered on it, maybe we can change some minds, to include mine
smile.gif
.

Kevin


Kevin -

It's been more than a year, so I may have my exact temps/days mixed up in my head, but here is a general synopsis of the heat tolerance of conventional 10w-30 HDEO:

We traveled from IN to CO, over the Rockies, into the blazing hot canyon regions of UT (Moab area was at 100 deg F and the canyons were hotter!), over to the western mountains of UT, down into the valleys of AZ. We then went to the lake in Page, AZ for the July 4th Holiday where it was 104 degress on July 2nd (and had been over 100 F the entire trip there). We then went back through NM (four-corners area) and across the Rockies, and through KS plains, all in July. It was WELL over 100 deg F, for many hours of the day, quite often in our two-week trip. Temps ranged from around 40 degF (In Rocky Mountain National Park) to 109 deg F in Canyonlands National Park when I was down in the valleys, and drove up the Shafer Trailhead to the upper plateau rim. If you've never been on the Shafer trail, google a YouTube vidoe of it; it's nothing but a long, slow, uphill crawl that starts in the arrid valley where heat just soaks the rock and surrounding air. I was crawling uphill for an hour (in 4x4 at times), with the a/c on, in that stupifying heat.

With the exception of the off-roading adventures, I was also pulling a large, full-sized travel trailer that had a loaded bed full with firewood and camping stuff. Many times I max'ed out the EGT around 1300+ deg F for long uphill pulls. There was one uphill pull that lasted for about 5 minutes non-stop in AZ where I was passing traffic (legally and safely) in the left lane, running WOT the entire time. It was either US-89 going into Page or SR-98 coming out of Page; I don't recall which.

I simply marvel at the Dmax and it's ability to run WOT, draging probably 8k pounds, hold EGT at 1300+, keep engine coolant at 210-215F, keep tranny temps at or below 210F, blast cold a/c on my family and not complain one bit. I'm not saying a Dmax is "better" than other engines (that is for each individual to decide); I am saying that all of today's diesels are really quite impressive. They are engineered to a level that is really more than what some "daily-drivers" will ever put them to. When I said that I was as purposely hard on the oil as I could be, I think these conditions could not test the oil any more if anyone else tried. (I inwardly chuckle when someone tells me they "need" synthetic oils to drive their big, bad diesel truck down the road 30 minutes to put a 3500 pound ski boat into a lake ...)

And I did all that with a engine sump level that was down 20% from full (two quarts low by the end of the trip), with never a top-off in the entire 6.5k mile UOA cycle.


That ought to dispell any issues about dino HDEO 10w-30 tolerating heat in a Dmax ...
 
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There is a reason that OEM's test their vehicles in Death Valley. They really know their business when it comes to sizing the heat exchangers in a cooling system.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
There is a reason that OEM's test their vehicles in Death Valley. They really know their business when it comes to sizing the heat exchangers in a cooling system.


True, but they also makes mistakes, too.

The early second gen Dmax (LLY) engine had overheating issues when heavily loaded (50-100% of allowable towing) because they didn't upgrade the cooling system, and then added EGR to the engine to meet EPA requirements. That added heat of the EGR cooler could not be handled by the (then current) cooling system, and the vehicle would overheat at times. I don't know that anyone outwardly knows for sure if this was a simple oversight, or a miscalculation. (I'm sure someone within GM knows, but isn't talking ...). Regardless, there were issues for about a year or more.

Then GM upsized the cooling system for later LLY and LBZ engines. The LBZ has been one of the premier examples of ultra-reliable light-duty diesel engines.
 
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