Screwed up, Used Scotch Brite for Engine Repair

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Hello,

I am new to the forum, and I am going to need some help. I am doing a fairly expensive engine build on my 2005 Corvette. I am in the process of doing a heads and cam install. The cam is already installed and the heads are ready to go back on. I took some bad advice and after having trouble getting the deck of my engine block cleaned I had at it with SCOTCH BRITE. Well, the deck is clean. Shortly thereafter I found a thread on this site about absolutely not using scotch brite on engine parts due to the aluminum oxide particles destroying bearings. I am not ready to start pulling pistons out. What can I do to flush this engine so I can get a long life out of it? I can't be doomed, there has to be some way to get this stuff out? Also I noticed some dust did get on my cam. How aggressive are these particles? I really don't want to have to do an engine rebuild in 1K over something this stupid.

DG
 
scotch-brite is fine, I've used the 3M discs a billion times to clean off gasket surfaces and clean decks. What you don't want to use is something like an SOS pad or something extremely abrasive that is going to damage the surface.

I assume you used something that looked like this?

196209c.jpg


If so, you'll be fine, just make sure you CLEAN THE AREA THOROUGHLY. I use a shop vac and then alcohol or mineral spirits on a rag until everything is spotless.

That being said, you should ALWAYS cover all holes/orifices as you don't want the particulate you are removing from the surface getting into the engine. Did you just go to town with nothing covered up?
 
wipe cylinder down real good. First vacuum cylinders. Take drain plug out of oil pan and spray cam area real good like 5 cans of carb cleaner . Pour some cheap motor oil over cam and lifter area real good. hopefully it will flush out the drain plug. Thats my best advice I can think of. Just flush flush flush.
 
That's exactly what I used, however I pulled up the MSDS and it states that it has aluminum oxide in it.

What I am interested in knowing how "dangerous" these particles are. If I change my oil after I run the engine for the first time. Then change it after 100 miles, will that remove most of any particles of concern OR do metal particles tend to embed themselves.

DG
 
Originally Posted By: Highline9

wipe cylinder down real good. First vacuum cylinders. Take drain plug out of oil pan and spray cam area real good like 5 cans of carb cleaner . Pour some cheap motor oil over cam and lifter area real good. hopefully it will flush out the drain plug. Thats my best advice I can think of. Just flush flush flush.


Is sea foam safe, I can buy it by the drum.

I can put the plug in and fill the engine, then pull the plug

DG
 
Originally Posted By: Danspeed1
That's exactly what I used, however I pulled up the MSDS and it states that it has aluminum oxide in it.

What I am interested in knowing how "dangerous" these particles are. If I change my oil after I run the engine for the first time. Then change it after 100 miles, will that remove most of any particles of concern OR do metal particles tend to embed themselves.

DG


They are as dangerous as any other abrasive material getting in the engine, that's why you cover things up so that you isolate where the material removed and anything shed from the removal tool can go.

I'd flush the [censored] out of it if you've managed to get it into the engine at all. If you feel you got it on ANY bearing surfaces, disassemble and clean it out, there's no other way around it.

You didn't go wrong using the abrasive disc or pad. You went wrong not covering things up/plugging holes.
 
Originally Posted By: Danspeed1
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
These are the 3M discs (and holder):

07716.jpg



Ok...............................?


Used by mechanics and engine builders to remove gasket material. The pads for this tool are no different in composition than the hand pad you used. These are scotch-brite rotary pads and tool.
 
I did cover up as much as I could but there were spaces where the particles could and did still get into.

I have been flushing the cam area with oil. At this point I would have to pull the whole motor apart to get all the bearings clean.

Flushing alone won't get this stuff out? The engine is not running nor has it been run. Heads are still off.

This brings me to my embedding question vs particles just floating around. How does it work. I would imagine under pressure these particles would embed themselves, but I would think at the moment they are just floating around and would be able to be flushed out. Now the question is what can I SAFELY USE to flush them out without causing other unnecessary damage to the engine and bearings.

DG
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Danspeed1
I did cover up as much as I could but there were spaces where the particles could and did still get into.

I have been flushing the cam area with oil. At this point I would have to pull the whole motor apart to get all the bearings clean.

Flushing alone won't get this stuff out? The engine is not running nor has it been run. Heads are still off.

This brings me to my embedding question vs particles just floating around. How does it work. I would imagine under pressure these particles would embed themselves, but I would think at the moment they are just floating around and would be able to be flushed out. Now the question is what can I SAFELY USE to flush them out without causing other unnecessary damage to the engine and bearings.

DG


Was the cam out when you used the pad? If not, you likely didn't get anything on a bearing surface and flushing like you are doing (then draining the oil) will likely be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Danspeed1
besides carb cleaner what would you recommend for Safe flushing?

Thanks for your help,

Dan


cheap oil & good filter. mobil super 5k is like $13 for 5 qts at walmart. pour in a batch, run it till warm, drain it. fill it and change filter. run it 200 miles, drain it. fill it and change filter. run it 500 miles and change it. then use your choice from then on. ive used scotch brite on may small engine cylinders to "break the glaze" and put on new rings. i wouldnt loose sleep over it. the above was probably overkill on the flush, but it will be particle free for sure after that. good luck.
-Donny
 
Originally Posted By: Danspeed1
besides carb cleaner what would you recommend for Safe flushing?

Thanks for your help,

Dan


kerosene or something you can pour over stuff with the drain plug out to flush the particulate out.
 
Sorry to keep asking so many questions, but I want to make sure I get this 100% right. The gap between the pistons and the cylinder walls. Will these wear if any particles are trapped in between. I did already douse the cylinders with brake parts cleaner and blow the area in between the rings out with compressed air, then I whipped it down with a rag. I actually did this a few times. Is there anything else I should do with this area.

That's pretty much it. I will have to find some way to re coat my cam with cam lube after I wash it all off with brake parts cleaner. Maybe with my fingers through the lifter bores as luckily the lifters are still out! Cam is already dialed in otherwise I would pull it out.

Thank you all for your help,

I might just get a couple hours of sleep tonight!

DG
 
It seems like you are doing more work trying to flush than just taking it apart, cleaning and reassembling? If you want to be sure, this is the only way.

It shouldn't be a big deal, but as we weren't witnesses, we can't truly advise.

Good luck.
 
I think you might be overthinking and overworrying with this. While the particles that come off can be dangerous, once they're flushed out you'll be fine. It sounds like you've got all your bases covered. When I do use those pads to remove stubborn gaskets, I blow it out with an air gun, spray brake clean/carb cleaner to rinse, wipe down with a clean rag (I use microfibers clothes for sensitive areas...ones that I've cleaned so many cars with they're stained and I no longer see fit to use on finishes), then pour oil over the area if needed (lifters, engine valley, etc). If I'm in this far, the car gets an oil change at 500 miles anyway, so if by chance something is missed, it won't have long to do much. I've never had any failure after doing this...if it didn't work, I'd have a lot of dead cars on my hands.
 
Scotch Brite is great for cleaning sealing surfaces.
I use it all the time - it is #1 first preferred.

BUT... keeping other parts clean is a must! Tape and paper off areas so you don't grit there from cleaning.

You HAVE to clean the surfaces - SB is a great way.

Didn't you think about that first - never crossed your mind? Residue and particulate matter getting in an OPEN engine!?

Anyway, what to do?
You could flush the affected areas and drain it out the bottom.
Do this a number of times. I'd use light oil.
Then you have to recoat the cam with oil, or moly paste if it is new.
 
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