Amsoil MCF 10W-40, 2011 Ninja 1000, 4251 miles

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This is the latest from my Ninja. I'm not very happy about this but I'm not sure what to do about it either. Most of the metals are coming down like expected as the engine gains miles with the exception of copper. The fuel dilution is troubling though. I assumed in the previous run it was because of so much cold weather riding but this interval had almost none of that and the excessive fuel is still there.

I'm wondering if I should pull the injectors when I do the 15K mile service and have them checked...

Previous UOA's are here - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2595423#Post2595423

As always, comments welcome!
 
My CBR1000RR has the same fuel dilution as your and pretty much every body else that I have seen if you ride it hard or doing a lot of stop and go. How does it idle and ride?
 
My Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 shows fuel dilution in most UOAs I've done. Most of my riding is warm/hot weather cruising with absolutely no city driving, so I can't account for it.
 
um, your copper doubled!!!. danger danger. were you banging the clutch hard this oci?

12.3 is pretty darn good for 2.8%

what what oils did you run the previous 3 runs?

steve
 
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
My CBR1000RR has the same fuel dilution as your and pretty much every body else that I have seen if you ride it hard or doing a lot of stop and go. How does it idle and ride?


Great. It has a tiny bit of rich blubber down low when it's hot but otherwise it's fine. Fuel economy is high 30's to low 40's on a trip and it pulls like a train when you're running it hard.

I think I'm going to put an Akra pipe on it this winter. That might lean it out some and I'll get the weight savings too. Plus I've always hated the stock muffler styling and they foul my feet sometimes.
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh
um, your copper doubled!!!. danger danger. were you banging the clutch hard this oci?

12.3 is pretty darn good for 2.8%

what what oils did you run the previous 3 runs?

steve


Yeah, wonderful isn't it. I hated to see the copper but I'm not hard on the clutch so I don't know what to do about it.

Previous run was also Amsoil MCF with a lot of winter riding, the one before was Rotella 15W-40. First run was Kawasaki factory fill.

I think the MCF is doing OK and 5K changes are probably more than adequate. It starts out at 13.8 cSt. With that much fuel and the shared sump I don't know that I could expect any better.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: va3ux
My Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 shows fuel dilution in most UOAs I've done. Most of my riding is warm/hot weather cruising with absolutely no city driving, so I can't account for it.


Looking at a few more of these UOA's I'm convinced that bikes need closed loop fueling like modern cars. The speed/density fixed fuel map setup is just not going to give optimum results in varied conditions.

We're in the place where cars were in 1988.
 
need to look at what all has copper/brass bushings and monitor it.

still dont know how in the world they came up with 17 barium on the 1st uoa?

steve
 
Agreed. My 'guess' is that it's clutch/transmission related but I have no real evidence to support that. There are plenty of complaints on the boards about clutch dragging and marginal shifting. Mine isn't horrible but it's not great either.

I did use a copper crush washer on the drain plug but it was the same one used in interval 3, I just flipped it over and reused it. This interval has a new OEM washer that isn't copper.

The 1st UOA was the factory fill and I'm glad I got it out when I did. It appears to be an unimpressive additive pack and it had an odd green metallic color too it.
 
Quote:
still dont know how in the world they came up with 17 barium on the 1st uoa?


Barium is an old school rust inhibitor and soot dispersant.
 
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