Bar's Leaks Engine Oil

[Digital2k2]

hey everyone, I just bought this oil additive called "bar's leaks engine oil, stop leak and conditioner". Got it for my 92 crown vic's 4.6 cause it's burning and leaking oil.

just thought I'd see what you all think of adding this to the oil? on the back of the bottle it says:

"Bar's Leaks Engine Oil Stop Leak is specially designed to stop seal and gasket leaks caused by normal engine wear and age.
-Keeps engine oil seals soft and pliable.
-Contains no particles that will clog oil passages or filters.
-Helps stop leaks due to drying, hardening or shrinking of engine oil seals and gaskets.
-compatible with ALL gasoline and diesel engines using conventional and synthetic engine oil.

Directions: Add entire bottle of stop leak at or between oil changes. One bottle treats 4 to 6 quarts of oil. Leaks usually stop in 250 miles or 3 days of driving."

anyway, if you guys have any thoughts on this I'd like to hear em.. thanks for your input

 

[Jelly]

Unless your engine is dumping straight oil out of the exhaust pipe, I'd try a different oil before I tried an OTC additive (With the exception of a few good products, I don't like additives, and I feel a very good oil doesn't need additives in the first place).

What oil are you using now and how bad is the consumption?

Alot of people say that the "new gen" 4.6/5.4 engines need a low viscosity oil so oil gets to the cams, but I don't understand this statement...for example, many european cars, which use OHC engines, spec. 15w-40 from the factory, with a cut-off temp. of around 15F.

Maybe something like Rotella 5w-40 while the cold weather is still around if you want to switch over now to a different oil.

If it was me, I'd keep topping off and switch over to Pennzoil Long-Life 15w-40 once the really cold weather is gone.

Just my two cents...

[ January 31, 2004, 01:21 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]

 

[SSDude]

Why don't you try Auto-Rx to fix the leak?

 

[Digital2k2]

well I'm using mobil drive clean 10w40 in it right now, the manual calls for 5w30 which is what was always put in it since new until around 90k miles when it was burning too much (it's at 105k now), it'd leave a big cloud of smoke.

I normally put havoline 10w40 or castrol 10w40 dino oil in it but decided to try mobil drive clean out last oil change. about 200 miles after the change I noticed a white film in the oil cap... I figure it's just condensation because of the frequent short trips (1 and 1/2 miles) and the cold weather we've had lately (in the 20's). thing is it's never done this before so I'm partly blaming mobil drive clean, but who knows.

it is leaking enough that every few days I need to wipe up the oil off the garage floor.. that's why I thought I'd give this stuff a try, it's not real thick like some of those additives, seems to be between a 40 to 50 weight.

I've worried about having to put 10w40 in it because I've heard about these engines needing thin oil also.


haven't really looked into the auto rx deal but maybe I should... like I mentioned above though, this stuff isn't really thick, it seems more like regular oil, though it's color is amber

 

[RF Overlord]

quote:

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Originally posted by Digital2k2:
Got it for my 92 crown vic's 4.6 cause it's burning and leaking oil.

anyway, if you guys have any thoughts on this I'd like to hear em.. thanks for your input

---

If your '92 CV is burning oil, it's because the valve seals are bad...the early 4.6 motors were notorious for that; Ford re-designed the valve seals in late '95 or early '96 to correct the problem...the only way to stop the oil burning is to have them replaced.

As far as the leaks go, depending on the cause, a good oil treatment like Auto-Rx may be of some use, or you can try one of the new "higher-mileage" oils that contain seal-swelling additives...and you're right to be concerned about using 10W-40 in that motor. The Ford modular motors generally like thinner oil, so the 10W-30 higher-mileage oils would be a better choice...

Other than Auto-Rx, most oil additives are just about worthless, and some may actually harm your engine...

[ January 31, 2004, 10:29 AM: Message edited by: RF Overlord ]

 

[Digital2k2]

yeah I'm considering changing the oil to 10w30 in the next few days even though I don't have even 500 miles on it. of course it'll leak out more with it and burn more... where ever it's leaking it's hitting something hot in the engine because I can smell burning oil once the car warms up.

I wonder if it's really hurting anything using a 10w40 instead of 10w30.. this is what a ford mechanic said:
"The tolerances of the 4.6 engine are so fine, that if a thicker oil is used, you WILL cause oil starvation.

Stick to the factory recommendations and dont waste your money on the bars leak additive, instead use brake fluid, it will do the same thing to the seals."

thing is I've used 10w40 for 15k miles now...

 

[Digital2k2]

I just put this stuff in the car last night and it was almost like pouring water in it's so thin, smells like an stp fuel additive.. hopefully it'll take care of the leak.

 

[Digital2k2]

I'd never put brake fluid in it anyway, this mechanic also thought that the reccomended weight oil was 5w20, but the manual says 10w30 above 0 degrees is ok. when I told him that, he said that later research showed that was too thick... anyway I really don't see what harm a 10w40 would do instead of a 10w30

 

[toyvwbenz]

quote:

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about 200 miles after the change I noticed a white film in the oil cap

---

You have a serious problem, I'm guessing bad head gasket or cracked head putting coolant into the oil. What color is your smoke?

 

[MolaKule]

Why ask for comments if you had your mind made up already?

quote:

---

"The tolerances of the 4.6 engine are so fine, that if a thicker oil is used, you WILL cause oil starvation.

Stick to the factory recommendations and dont waste your money on the bars leak additive, instead use brake fluid, it will do the same thing to the seals."

---

Both statements are incorrect.

Clearances is the correct word which means small distances between adjacent parts that move relative to each other.

Brake fluid contains an ester that is INCOMPATIBLE with motor oils.

[ February 08, 2004, 12:10 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]

 

[Digital2k2]

it has kind of a bluish look to it but that's mostly noticeable in the summer. after driving it about 20 miles the white film went away so I'm still hoping it's just condensation, I've been keeping an eye on the coolant and it doesn't seem to be going down any...

 

[toyvwbenz]

last time I saw a white film on the oil fill cap it was caused by coolant in the oil. It looked like thick chocolate milk. Get a oil analysis to confirm.