Duramax UOA Rotella 15w40

[Ponch]

All,

I just received my 3rd UOA from blackstone labs on my 6600 mile run of rotella 15w40. I have a PDF file downloaded to my desktop on my mac computer, but don't know yet how to upload it to here. (advise please) I ran my first UOA with this oil with great results, but then I wanted to try a longer run with the T6 synthetic 5w40 rotella, and didnt like the results I got. High copper, iron, and sodium. So I was advised by "dnewton3" on here to run a 6600 mile UOA sample of the dino rotella again to see how it stacks up against the T6. 6600 miles is the "univeral average" that blackstone compares duramax UOA samples to. I should mention that after the T6 run, I ran a "buffer run" of the rotella dino to clean things out (dont worry I didnt waste it!). Also I tried a fram oil filter this time...and I was shocked to see that this combo of rotella dino, and a fram oil filter produced LOWER than average wear results! If I cant figure out how to downloaded these results...I will just hand type them out later tonight.

 

[LeakySeals]

Save the PDF to .jpg or .png and upload to to a site like photobucket. Then link the image here. Cant use flickr.

 

[yucca]

Go to Neevia dot com and convert your PDF to jpeg. Find a host to upload the jpeg to. Copy the link and place inside of img tag to this thread.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: yucca
Go to Neevia dot com and convert your PDF to jpeg. Find a host to upload the jpeg to. Copy the link and place inside of img tag to this thread.



alternatively view the PDF on your screen
hit the print screen button to take a screenshot.

edit out details like your name and address in paint..

then post to a website like imageshack.us

then put link here.

 

[Donald]

Hope you have a TBN in that UOA. I would not really listen to B/S comments or universal averages.

 

[The motor guy]

setup a photobucket account and upload it to that site and then copy the link into the forum.

 

[Ponch]

@ "donald"..the TBN values for my last two runs were still great at around 7. I didn't bother paying this time for the extra TBN check with such a short run. Have you had a bad experience with blackstone? By the "B/S" comment..it sounds like it?

 

[Ponch]

Okay okay...I guess im not computer literate, and also I don't want my personal info (address, phone number) from blackstone's report showing up on this site. Sorry..we live in a very sick world. I will type out by hand..

2007 Duramax LBZ. 6,600 miles on sample. 81,146 on engine. About a quart of makeup oil added during run. Hard towing in hot weather on this sample.

ALUMINUM 1
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 13
COPPER 5
LEAD 0
TIN 0
MOLYBDENUM 3
NICKEL 0
MANGANESE 0
SILVER 0
POTASSIUM 7
BORON 27
SILICON 4
SODIUM 2
CALCIUM 2416
MAGNESIUM 38
PHOSPHORUS 1032
ZINC 1223
BARIUM 0

SUS VISCOSITY @ 210 F 81.1
CST VISCOSITY @ 100 C 15.80
FLASHPOINT 410
FUEL % TRACE
ANTIFREEZE 0.0
WATER % 0.0
INSOLUBLES % 0.1

This run was with a fram oil filter. Notice also that the viscosity is at the upper limit..im not sure why, as I ran this oil for a longer interval before with a lower viscosity reading. Only thing I could think of was maybe the oil was "heated up" and oxidised a bit as I towed hard this summer in extreme heat. All in all, I should be done doing UOA's for awhile in my rig. I have found an extremely great performing oil at a low price, and I could not have done it without the help of this forum. I have learned that no matter what ANY oil company claims is "better" than another...the REAL results is how it performs in YOUR application with UOA to back this evidence up! -Ponch

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: Ponch
Okay okay...I guess im not computer literate, and also I don't want my personal info (address, phone number) from blackstone's report showing up on this site. Sorry..we live in a very sick world. I will type out by hand..

Look at all the other UOA's, people just black it out. Report looks good, you can go longer, maybe 8k.

 

[dnewton3]

Hey Ponch! Good to see you again!


Typically boring Dmax UOA.
AND THAT'S A GOOD THING!


Dmax engines just don't seem to care what fluid you run in them, as long as it's a qualified HDEO. They could not care less about the brand or grade, as long as it's in spec, and this is yet another one to heap into the pile of evidence to support that statement.

Which Fram did you use? There are several; most of us shy away (perhaps unfairly) from the OCOD, but the up-scale Frams seem very well made and have good efficiencies.

What did your OLM say about % life left? (Do you have DIC controls or not?) I would say you could easily double the duration out to 12k miles, given these results. So many of us are finding that 10-12k miles on dino oil in a Dmax is completely doable, and totally routine, with no risk whatsoever. If you just use dino lubes, follow your OLM, and stay dedicated to a solid maintenance program, (at this wear rate) your engine will far outlast the rest of the truck!

Overall, you've used the tools available to you (UOAs and this site) to find an appropriate lube that meets your needs. Congrat's on using data and logic rather than succumbing to mythology and rhetoric. I'm not saying your approach is "best" for everyone; I'm stating that you did the detailed research, put in the effort, and found what is "best" for your situation. And as a generalization, that's what "normal" folks can rely on for "normal" OCI cycles. Any "normal" use of a Dmax will result in stellar wear results, regardless of the brand/grade used. (And contrary to what most folks think is "extreme", towing is in fact "normal" for a well-designed diesel engine, and synthetics are not a requirement for long engine life).

P.S. - In the future, I suggest you start a "data text tool" (such as note pad or such) and then you can insert the data with the edit tool. It's a GREAT way to make for easy posting. PM me if you can't figure it out.

 

[Ponch]

Thanks dave! I only ran this short interval per your recommendations to compare it to the higher wear count of the T6 synthetic. NO WAY I will dump this oil for awhile yet. I am still puzzled about the high sodium content with the T6 synthetic run? I was all worried about a possible coolant leak/head gasket and such. I have read many other UOA's with folks using the T6 rotella with great results! Even blackstone commented that they were not sure what happened?

 

[Ponch]

I forgot to answer your question dave regarding the OLM..I dont have a percentage readout, just a change engine oil light that alerts me. I think last time it came on around 9800 miles last summer? Also I used the "old orange can" fram filter.

 

[dnewton3]

I, too, don't have DIC controls; I have a W/T work truck. You probably have to "tap dance" on the pedals to reset the OLM and Fuel Filter life just like I do!


I have not looked at a VOA on the T6 in a while. Sodium is used as an additive at times in some fluids by some makers. It may be part of the package, but I cannot say for sure.

Seems like everything is completely in line now, and wearing excellently, as expected.

WHAT? The OCOD is used with excellent results, and your vehicle hasn't blown up yet? Heresy!

 

[Ponch]

My truck must be one step above a "W/T"?? It is an "LS" model...BUT it is bare-bones without power windows, or locks, AND what I love most about it...VINYL FLOORING and floor shifter for T-case. I wanted to try out the "orange can" FRAM filter to see how it performed at such a cheap price. This post also rules out anybody's opinion about "rotella CJ-4 being junk!"

 

[KevinsDMAX]

I'm really surprised that you had problems with the T6. I have ran this oil for the last 40K, and the last three UOAs the highest I had was 17 and that was with a 5er hooked for every mile from TX to AK. The others were 11 and 8. Wonder if you might have gotten a bad batch of oil.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: Ponch
My truck must be one step above a "W/T"?? It is an "LS" model...BUT it is bare-bones without power windows, or locks, AND what I love most about it...VINYL FLOORING and floor shifter for T-case. I wanted to try out the "orange can" FRAM filter to see how it performed at such a cheap price. This post also rules out anybody's opinion about "rotella CJ-4 being junk!"


I too have rubber floor, manual windows, manual floor t-case, etc. LOVE IT! Less stuff to break, and even if it does; easier and cheaper to fix.

As for your UOA; the data speaks for itself!

 

[Ponch]

Right on dave!

 

[Ponch]

@ "kevinsduramax"...I would hope that it is not possible to get a "bad" batch of oil...but how common do you think that could be? Perhaps shell missed a quality check or so? Too bad I didn't have a virgin sample of this oil to compare it to. Thanks for the input!