Best way to CLEAN my engine?

[SteveD2]

I've got two weeks vacation coming up...I've decided to replace the rear main, oil pan, and valve cover gaskets on my Jeep 4.0. The inside of this engine is DIRTY, having about 10 cheap dino oil changes in 100,000 miles. I will probably be running mobile 1 this summer when I start towing my boat. Given the fact that I'm going to replace all the seals, what is the best (easiest/cheapest) to clean this thing out? I know those 5 minute flush kind of products are usually a bad idea, but isn't that because of what they can do to old seals?

Edit: Please don't recommend auto rx, it's waaaay to expensive for the amount I need and I obviously don't need it to help my seals.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

Neutra?

 

[LCD]

www.lubecontrol.com, run some FP in your fuel and LC in the oil and it will be clean in no time and possibly increase your gas mileage.

 

[Pablo]

I would drain the oil now, add a generous dose of LC, a low cost filter, run that for whatever, drain hot, add some good cheap oil, a new cheap filter and a can of quickie flush. Idle (per instructions) 15-20 minutes, drain well and do the work with engine open and solvent evaporating.

When finised add oil and go 2K max. Drain and change and your engine should be a little cleaner. (Hey you said you didn't want AutoRX

)

 

[sprintman]

And unless I'm mistaken that routine would cost more than RX anyway (well it sure would here).

 

[Chris]

131

 

[Motorbike]

I would give the Lubegard Flush a try .

It's not a must to use the oil additive after , it's cost effective " 7.00 " and should be readily available where you live see'in Washington State is where their home is .

A big Company here that's for sure .I wonder why this is not spke of here at BITOG more often ? I hear it's great stuff and the technology dates back 8-9 years ?

Anyway.....

http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/engine_flush.html

 

[Motorbike]

quote:

---

Originally posted by ZmOz:
I've got two weeks vacation coming up...I've decided to replace the rear main, oil pan, and valve cover gaskets on my Jeep 4.0.

---

Ohhh , I would use Gunk or KW engine flush then for 2-3 bucks . I think it's about the same as Amsoil's flush and no-one protests the use of it .

Maybe the less harsh Lubegard after the work is done at sometime before switching to the Mobil oil to get the rest out of the motor ?

Good idea no ?

 

[LCD]

Running LC/FP in your oil and fuel is much more budget friendly than other products, especially with our holiday special. Our price per oz is hard to beat. Also, LC and FP will not only clean out your engine, but if used based on Molakule's guidelines should extend your oil's life to 10,000 miles or so, hence more money saved.

[ December 16, 2003, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: lcd ]

 

[Lubricious]

Gunk Engine Flush is the most expensive diesel fuel you can buy! Just get .50 of diesel at the local gas station.

 

[userfriendly]

Once you have taken the pan and rocker covers off and cleaned them, simply let the new oil do the rest of the cleaning.
It may take another 50,000 miles and 10 oil changes using a high DD oil to clean-up your engine, but there is zero risk of plugging an oil gallery using the slow way.

 

[unDummy]

Don't expect anything to take out 100k of negligence.

Worry about the seals later(in 2-4 oil changes). Start dealing with the buildup NOW.

Use a quality oil(maybe someone here could recommend a good detergent diesel engine oil).
Change it 4 times over the next 8k miles.
Either: add a quart of rislone or marvel mystery oil at each change, or run a 5 minute flush at the end of each interval.
If kerosene or biodiesel is cheaper than the flush products, I'd use them and follow the typical directions from the '5-15 minute' OTC flush products available(usually ice cold engine/no load/at idle.......and change oil & filter immediately after).
Or, you could go get autorx and follow its directions.
Or, you could change the seals and start changing the oil every 3k miles(with whatever added) until you are happy with the way it looks and then pick whatever OCI you want.
Make sure you clean the pan/valve cover.

Don't use diesel.

 

[Dr. T]

Diesel? I thought that the 5 min. flushes were almost pure kerosene. No?

 

[Rick20]

I would be very careful cleaning this neglected motor. I would definitly defend those that suggest a slow cleaning procedure. You run a great risk when trying to undo 100,000 miles of slack maintenance in an afternoon.

ARX cost to clean this motor would be about 40 bucks. Besides, you would be using the oil in the motor anyways. Thats the equivalent of 2 oil changes at the corner garage.

 

[SteveD2]

Thanks guys...but I won't be cleaning this motor anymore. As some of you already read in my other post I totaled it Tuesday night.

 

[Sin City]

ZMOZ, sorry to hear that.

[ December 19, 2003, 02:17 AM: Message edited by: Sin City ]