CUT OPEN Used defective Denso Toyota oil filter.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 23, 2012
Messages
246
Location
Vero Beach FL
So I decided to cut open my oil filter to see what it looked like on the inside. (duh)




1pv23c.jpg


30nhx1e.gif



(^That was my reaction.) That's what the Anti drain back valve looked like when I took off the cover. And in the next pic you can see how the rubber valve has seated into the wrong position all this time. The rubber itself was stiff but not brittle.


1j2icg.jpg



Now onto the filter element.....yeah, you can clearly see a sizable hole (giggity) there.



29fbct0.jpg



The Endcap had cracks around the inner side, the pic below shows the largest ones.

2dir49w.jpg


The spring was still very stiff and in good condition.

x21gtg.jpg


2gx2n10.jpg


2a4vnt5.jpg


dej4w.jpg


jjnsz9.jpg


The car is an 2006 Daihatsu Terios. The oil this filter was put with was M1 15w50 because the owners manual said That I could use it for this climate. BUT while I was using this combination of oil and filter, every cold start the engine had a lot of valve noise like starting the car with an empty oil filter due to a bad ADBV like seen in the previous pics. Not to mention that the oil was a little on the thick side. This oil was drained after about 5k miles because one morning I checked my oil and and it was black as [censored] and below the add line on the dipsick. I changed the oil to Valvoline Synpower 10w30 and a Wix Filter. The valve noise is virtually gone at ANY start up.
But I have a feeling that this filter is probably a fake because I've heard on here that if the filter says 'Made in Japan' than the filtering material would be different than this one. Correct me if I'm wrong. The end of the filter WAS wrapped in plastic when it was new.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: N7Quarian
Here is a vid of the cold start with the M1 Oil and filter in place.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veYQqU7WlDU

Its not the filter. His oil is WAY too thick. He has a "15w" cold starting weight which is impacting the hydraulics of the vvt-i controller. No oil pressure is causing it to remain in the "locked" startup position until the oil pressure builds. Then it unlocks, moves to the correct position, and the noise goes away.
 
wow, that looks pretty awful! I do wonder if it's a knock-off, made in Bangladesh version? Here's the same filter:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2126028

I realize there are running changes and the OEM's use different manufacturers, so the filter may have just changed and you got unlucky. However, the quality is SO poor that I have to wonder if it wasn't a counterfeit filter.

As far as the hole, I wonder if despite the condition of the spring, the bypass just wasn't working?
 
That's my car in the video. And the owners manual says that I can use a 20w50 oil if I wanted to for this climate. I only had 15w50 synthetic on hand. I always use synthetic.
 
However I do think that the thicker oil helped worsen the noise, so that's why I just said [censored] it and wen't back the the manufacturers factory fill of 10w30.
 
Ok. I'm shocked a Toyota engine would specify that weight in any country. You could have a faulty controller lock pin. There are TSB's out on that. See if you can find it. But for the sake of verifying oil pressure at startup, I don't see the harm in running something thinner for a while. Sounds like your doing that.
 
I work at a shop and we where able to get some hastings filters that had plastic wrap on them only they where made in china.I never cut one open but they where real heavy,my point is i dont think genuine filters come with just plastic around the base.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like you had a knock off filter but the real problem was the oil thats way to heavy i would never run anything higher than 10w30 in any newer vehicle unless diesel.
 
Bad filter was all.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: N7Quarian
Here is a vid of the cold start with the M1 Oil and filter in place.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veYQqU7WlDU

Its not the filter. His oil is WAY too thick. He has a "15w" cold starting weight which is impacting the hydraulics of the vvt-i controller. No oil pressure is causing it to remain in the "locked" startup position until the oil pressure builds. Then it unlocks, moves to the correct position, and the noise goes away.


Doubt that has anything to do with it. He lives in Venezuela, not Antarctica. If what you say were the case then VVT-i equipped vehicles that have cold start temperatures below 30F would always have this noise, even using 5w-30.

Bad filter was all it was.
 
I'm not any kind of expert on Toyota filters, but I thought the made-in-Japan ones had that weird-looking sponge-like media...I also thought they had silicone ADBVs. That filter looks like it spent 30,000 miles on a badly-maintained diesel in Libya.
 
Originally Posted By: jsnyder49090
In the fords even going from 5w20 to 5w30 will affect this.


If that was true, than a 10 degree drop in temp would cause it. Viscosity is temperature dependant.
 
Lots of unknowns and variables here. Looking at the media blow out and the endcap cracks, I'm wondering if your oil pump relief valve malfunctioned, ie., stuck closed. Lots of pressure required to cause the cracks.

Doesn't look like the same oem factory filter river rat posted, but really hard to tell if it's "counterfeit". These things change so fast and 'perhaps' even differ from country to country.

Does the bypass valve push down evenly/smoothly with pressure? How did you cut the the filter open? Any chance the adbv displacement was caused by cutting it open?

You might find the linked filter thread interesting in what appears to be a stuck relief valve. Honestly though, like others I'm just spitballing here.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2659326&page=1
 
The bypass valve is very stiff and it breaks if I squeeze the 2 ends together, but its not brittle.

That's how it looked like when I opened the filter and you can see on the valve how the rubber has 'molded' itself into the incorrect position all this time.

I opened the filter with a Dremel, right at the base, nowhere the filter element.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top