Fuel power in an outboard motor?

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I've got a '74 150hp 2 cycle Mercury outboard on my boat, and it has a relatively high compression ratio so premium fuel is required. Problem is...I only get about 3mpg.
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Do you guys think using something like fuel power would increase my mileage a little bit? Might it have any ill effects on a 2 cycle motor screaming along at 6000 RPMs for long periods of time?
 
Odis is the one to call about this as he has used FP and LC for probably 30 to 40 years in 2 cycle
outboard motors. 972 221 1343.

Use FP in the gasoline you will mix at 1 oz to 5 gallons gas.

Mix LC at 10% ratio to oil volume.

This should both clean and provide a performance boost for you that is noticeable and welcome.

Molakule the author of the paper produced for Lubecontrol by Dyson Analysis says we need to standardize dosages across the board and I agree, checkout lubecontrol.com for that tech paper and more info.

I know using those levels in my friends weed whacker sure makes it run clean and strong, starts easier too.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Terry:


Use FP in the gasoline you will mix at 1 oz to 5 gallons gas.

Mix LC at 10% ratio to oil volume.


Terry,
If this is a 2 cycle boat motor with oil injection are you saying to put 1 oz FP in the fuel per 5 gallons AND then up to 10% LC in the Injector oil. I am having a SM, would you clarify this for me. I had two other people read this, and they are younger than I am and they gave me the same conclusion I had from reading the above. HELP!!!!!!!

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quote:

Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:

quote:

Originally posted by Terry:


Use FP in the gasoline you will mix at 1 oz to 5 gallons gas.

Mix LC at 10% ratio to oil volume.


Terry,
If this is a 2 cycle boat motor with oil injection are you saying to put 1 oz FP in the fuel per 5 gallons AND then up to 10% LC in the Injector oil. I am having a SM, would you clarify this for me. I had two other people read this, and they are younger than I am and they gave me the same conclusion I had from reading the above. HELP!!!!!!!

dunno.gif


This is exactly how I treat my 2-stokes and they have been running much better since, more power, easier starting/revving, cleaner, etc. My ratios to 1 gallon of fuel are as follows:

4 ozs pre-mix 2-stroke oil (currently Maxima)
.4 oz LC (I eyeball it just under 1/2 oz)
.20 oz FP (1 oz to 5 gallons)

I normally mix up 5 gallons of fuel at time with the FP. I then will make a gallon of pre-mix at a time with the treated fuel to keep the pre-mix fresh.
 
Vetteman and others, 2 cycle injected engines can be a different game as the oil used for them normally has more solvency by design, thus my recommendation to talk to Odis. Having said that the LC is lubricious enough to do nothing but help the lube its added to and in that year of engine can only help.

shortyb's experience is a follow up to the fact that LC is safe even in injected engines but use your head and talk to LC's maker first if you are hesistant in your application.

Problem with LC and FP like Auto-RX is that "pat" levels are only a starting point and the operator or maintainer must use common sense and observe operation to "fine tune " the application.

For confusion elimination contact Odis or the reps at lubecontrol.com. and don't forget our own Rugerman1 is also a rep for LC/FP and can get an answer if you are still concerned.
 
Kinda related to this, what about LC or FP in 2-cycle equipment requiring premix (not injected)?

I've put a small squirt of FP in a gallon of gas before mixing in the 2-cycle oil for my edger, blower, small outboard, chainsaw, etcetera.

Since it's mostly gas I've used FP but since there is some oil, maybe a bit of LC is acceptable/warranted as well?

Finally, when is too much additive too much? For example, for my 2-cycle equipment I have the gas, 2-stroke oil (different Redline product depending on the application), Stabil (as I don't go through the gas very fast), and now LC/FP.
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I worry sometimes that I'm mixing in too much stuff.

Matt
 
txmatt, use the recommendations above for LC/FP to start with then adjust as you see fit. No need to add Stabil to FP'd fuel as it works as well or better in storage. Just use the LC/FP with the oil and fuel of your choice and save your money.

Terry
 
txmatt-see my post as its for pre-mix applications. I fiddled with the rate of LC up to 20% and as low as 5% to the pre-mix oil. Finally settled on the 10% with my oil of choice. I judged this strictly by observing the exhaust gas temps (have a cool analyzer for this), smoke output, and plug deposits. I did not open up the main jets so it was fairly critical to get the right rate. Just remember that when you add too much (oil, additives etc.) to the fuel, you lower the amount of given gasoline delivered unless you compensate by increasing jet size. Most 2-stroke designers take this into consideration when recommending a pre-mix ratio as they will operate in a variety of conditions (humidity, barometric pressure, altitude etc.) But if you're living on the ragged edge of lean, open it up. Better to have too much and bog when doing the initial adjustments than to not have enough and seize. Do some plug-chops and take some reads, that can tell you alot.

And like Terry says, shelve the Sta-Bil, the FP will take care of this. Had some FP pre-mix sitting around for 7 months, worked just like when I mixed it up. Normally it goes south after about 3 months. $.02

[ November 19, 2003, 03:54 PM: Message edited by: shortyb ]
 
Thanks Terry and Shortyb. I have used the FP with great results in both gas and diesel engines. I have only used the FP at the ratio of 1 oz to 5 gal. of fuel in my 2 cycles. With three 2 cycle boat engines, all oil injected, I was just making sure that I could use LC in the injector oil also. It took me by surprise, and as you know, I am pretty adventureous on fuel additives, but my use of them in 2 cycle engines have been limited. But using the FP in my oil injected Suzuki 90HP V-4 has been very noteworthy. Usually I have to change the spark plugs every October, and after using the FP all year I am able to continue with the present plugs. And in honesty, it appears they will go until the electrodes wear out. The plugs are clean as a pin and no visible carbon on the piston domes as viewed through the spark plug hole.
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