BMW R1200R (boxer) and Schaeffers 5w-40 (9000).

[PDX2500HD]

Ok, I've got a 2012 R1200R that hit 3000 miles and isn't' burning oil anymore... I managed to seat the rings with good break-in technique.

I'm wanting to switch the bike to synthetic and have several gallons of Schaeffers 9000 series (API CJ-4) in my garage that I use on my BMW car as well as my Duramax truck. The owners manual allows 5w-40 (API SF / ACEA A2 or better).

So the question is: Anyone see a problem with using this particular brand and type of oil? It's not known as a motorcycle oil, but it is a very high grade oil, right?

BTW, before anyone goes off on a tangent, the bike IS a dry clutch, with synthetic gear oil in the gearbox.

 

[beanoil]

Rock on.. Sounds like a good choice to me. I ran M1 15w50 for a long time in my 1100RT. I also ran Redline ShockProof in the final drive. I hope your consumption stays low, mine always used almost a quart every 3000 miles, but I'm sure there have been many changes in the engine since 95...

 

[dparm]

Does your bike use a shared sump for the motor and gearbox?

 

[PDX2500HD]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Does your bike use a shared sump for the motor and gearbox?


no, in the last line of my post, I mentioned that in advance expecting this question.

 

[CSM746]

I own a couple of R1200s GS & RT....I have run 15W40 Delvac in them since new. I am going to wait until I have at least 20K on each engine before I switch. Mostly from the dealerships you hear that you should wait until at least 6 to 10K, but some anecdotal evidence suggests that you should wait until 15K. My opinion may be worth little, but I have ridden BMWs for over 35 years and being involved with this community of riders for that long has convinced me that synthetics are the right oil to use in due time. I assume that your engine has Nikasil cylinder linings which take a while to mate to the rings.

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: PDX2500HD
Originally Posted By: dparm
Does your bike use a shared sump for the motor and gearbox?


no, in the last line of my post, I mentioned that in advance expecting this question.

My bad, missed that.

The Schaeffers is a good oil.

 

[PDX2500HD]

Originally Posted By: CSM746
I own a couple of R1200s GS & RT....I have run 15W40 Delvac in them since new. I am going to wait until I have at least 20K on each engine before I switch. Mostly from the dealerships you hear that you should wait until at least 6 to 10K, but some anecdotal evidence suggests that you should wait until 15K. My opinion may be worth little, but I have ridden BMWs for over 35 years and being involved with this community of riders for that long has convinced me that synthetics are the right oil to use in due time. I assume that your engine has Nikasil cylinder linings which take a while to mate to the rings.


not sure what the linings are made from, I though iron.. but I do know that the oil consumption is down to very little if any now, and I can see no reason to wait for synthetic since the break-in is more or less 99% done... Or is it? Maybe there's more to it that I don't know about or understand?

My BIG concern is that I sit in traffic quite a bit and I've watched the temp climb way up to near the top of the barograph, to the point where I began to shut the engine down at the lounger stops.... I figure a good synthetic will have a much higher flashpoint and over all heat stability, right?

As to waiting for 20K to change over, doesn't that seem a bit late and risks possible leaks from seals that are used to mineral oil viscosities? I always heard it was bad to switch to synthetic with too many miles...

 

[HerrStig]

I'm using T6 in my airhead.

 

[hal2626]

When i bought my 03 R1150 RT new I started running M1 15w50 syn at 2,000 miles. It does have the nikasil cylinder coating that is known to require a long break in period. Around 15 K oil consumption is minimal and no leaks. I did notice that as soon as I went to the syn,my oil temp dropped one full bar immediately. I read somewhere that police Rt's were getting syn at the first oil change due to their intended severe use.I do not think that 5w40 is a good choice for stop and go unless you change it at 1500 mile intervals IMHO,but I am no expert,that is certain! It just seems that it would quickly shear to a 30 weight and may not be up to the task. BMW Sport Touring.com is a great source for Beemer info.

 

[ammolab]

I switched my 2011 R1200R to Mobil 1 TDT 5W-40 synthetic @ 3000 miles. No oil burning, no other issues to report. I did an OA after 3000 miles on that oil and it did shear a bit but all oils I have run in BMWs have done that.

Your oil should do just fine in that sweet new bike.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: hal2626
When i bought my 03 R1150 RT new I started running M1 15w50 syn at 2,000 miles. It does have the nikasil cylinder coating that is known to require a long break in period. Around 15 K oil consumption is minimal and no leaks. I did notice that as soon as I went to the syn,my oil temp dropped one full bar immediately. I read somewhere that police Rt's were getting syn at the first oil change due to their intended severe use.I do not think that 5w40 is a good choice for stop and go unless you change it at 1500 mile intervals IMHO,but I am no expert,that is certain! It just seems that it would quickly shear to a 30 weight and may not be up to the task. BMW Sport Touring.com is a great source for Beemer info.


For "exhaustive" info on air cooled BM's just Google "Snowbum BMW".
Good winter reading.

 

[HerrStig]

The "oilhead" engines have good cooling. Seems to me that if the manual indicates a 40 is OK it's because the cooling system is up to the task. I've run 20-50 in my air cooled bike in the past, because, of course, when stopped on a hot day there IS no extra cooling going on. My bike manual shows both 10-40 and 10-50 good to over 100 degrees. In the frozen north, a 5w- 40 makes starting easier in the "cooler" months.

 

[PDX2500HD]

then if I live in moderate climate, rarely gets below 25F, then should I go with a 10-50, and skip on the 5W?

 

[Ken2]

#9000 has been working great in my V-Strom, wet clutch and combined transmission and all. I run it 5000 miles.

 

[PDX2500HD]

sorry to hi-jack my own thread.... but I also happen to have 4 quarts of TWS 10W60 (the stuff BMW insists you use on their M cars)... what about using the stuff? It's $15/quart to buy and I have 4 of them in my garage.. This stuff is supposed to be made of the best German synthetic stock and has a good bit of ZDDP additive that's pretty stable.

 

[Ausfahrt]

By far the most popular oil on the BMW forums that I frequent is Mobil 1 15w-50. I use it in my '07 R1200GSA and switched to it at 24000 miles, it now has nearly 38000 miles and seems to run better every day.

Incidentally, the guy that convinced me to use Mobile 1 uses it in his 1996 R1100GS on the original engine:

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: PDX2500HD
then if I live in moderate climate, rarely gets below 25F, then should I go with a 10-50, and skip on the 5W?


I think that more than covers your need in a "moderate" climate.