2000 Nissan Altima Valve Train Pic

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I don't particularly care what you decide to do next BUT I am really interested in seeing the after pictures since you have now posted the before pictures.

Frankly, this forum can use lot more before and after pictures rather than all the rampant speculation which seems to be the norm here.

(Yes, I am still waiting for the guy who started Kreen treatment and promised use after pictures)

- Vikas
 
^^ Exactly.

I figured that this "varnish" was typical for a car with my milage and using conventional....when I saw it. What I don't know is.....should I be concerned? Should I try to clean it up?

I have a mix of answers on here.

FYI.....it does NOT bother me that the varnish/brownish stuff has coated the valve train. That type of stuff doesn't keep me up at nights worried, like I think it would a lot of folks on here. But that's not how it looked when it was new, so I'm wondering if I should clean it up or leave it alone?

Oh, and yeah, the car runs good. I had to replace the intake manifold gasket about 20k miles ago. It was sucking so much....but this is typical for this engine.

Okay man....I'll post more pics later. Maybe I'll just do a MMO tretment. If that doesn't work, I already have 1.5 gallons of Kreen on the way as I type....my old truck is a sludge monster when I bought it.
 
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I wouldn't sweat it Phishin. My 97 Grand Am 3.1 with 145k miles has the same looking varnish as your car and the engine is still running fine. I'm using whatever conventional oil is on sale and seeing I don't put very many miles on that car, I'm at a 6 month change interval. Your engine will outlast the body of that car guaranteed. If you want to do something about it, either run a cleaner or switch to an inexpensive Group III synthetic like PP and let it clean things up gradually.
 
I think you have to be realistic about the service life of the car. If you plan on keeping it for 20 more years and 250K more miles, then maybe it the varnish would an issue to a point where it would potentially affect performance. If you plan on keeping it for 10 more years and another 150K, I wouldn't worry about it.

As a former Nissan owner ('93 SE-R), I'll admit that I'm a fan of using a synthetic oil in this application. I used Amsoil's SSO (or whatever they called their 0W30 back then) and ran it 10K with no problems. The issue with many of the Nissan 4-bangers is the tiny sump (under 4 qts). The oil gets hotter, and it sees more use because it spends less time in the pan. I think the varnish you're seeing is the result. Will it affect the useful service life of the engine? I doubt it, unless you're going for 500K miles.
 
So, I'm gonna use this as an experiment.

I'm going to go with a 15% MMO dose in the next OC. Run for 3k miles on 5w30 Valvoline Bulk. Take a picture.

See where I'm at.

Maybe use Kreen next if needed. Or possibly run another OC with MMo dosed in it. I'll report back later on this one.
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
So, I'm gonna use this as an experiment.

I'm going to go with a 15% MMO dose in the next OC. Run for 3k miles on 5w30 Valvoline Bulk. Take a picture.

See where I'm at.

Maybe use Kreen next if needed. Or possibly run another OC with MMo dosed in it. I'll report back later on this one.


MMO won't clean much if any especially with one OCI (I think this may have been proven somewhere in the oil additives section). I'd go straight to Kreen.
 
It's just me, but I HATE Pennzoil. Hate that stuff. Why? I have no idea. Because I do. I will NOT put it in anything I own. I'm a Pennzoil racist and hater. Yellow puts me in a bad mood.

If I was gonna put any straight oil in it to clean it up, it would be M1 HM or TDT. But I don't have much faith in just oil removing this gunk. I think the detergents in good oils today can PREVENT varnish and sludge from accumulating...but not get rid of it.

I'm still gonna try the MMO. If no better after 3000 miles, in goes the Kreen. I have plenty on hand.
 
Okay, that being said re; Pennzoil that`s your opinion and I respect it. why not try the MB-1 HM for two oci`s? You see, being a bitoger and all, I for one would like to see just how much of this stuff an oil alone can clean up.
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It`s as my good friend Bugg`s Bunny once said: "it`s just the suspense that get`s me"
 
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You have no idea why you hate Pennzoil products?

I too would love to see what PU or PP can do but since you are not going to go for I'd love to see how Kreen does.
 
Would putting Seafoam or STP engine treatment right before changing oil do anything to clean this?
 
Nothing wrong with that motor, put the valve cover back on and keep doing what your doing.

But if you really want to play around a bit I have seen a good synthetic make a valve train like that, look like its new. Half a dozen changes of say Mobil 1, or whatever brand you like at 5k miles will clean it right up.
 
Originally Posted By: Zako2
Would putting Seafoam or STP engine treatment right before changing oil do anything to clean this?


seafoam maybe but it may ruin your seals while its doing its cleaning....
 
Originally Posted By: Zako2
Would putting Seafoam or STP engine treatment right before changing oil do anything to clean this?

STP is more about increasing ZDDP versus adding detergents.

I am another one of those guys that will say run a short OCI with regular engine oil to clean some of that varnish.

High mileage oil is even better.
 
I'm not aiming this question at anyone in particular (I'm really not), but why do so many people get concerned about varnish under the valve cover? Maybe I just havent been inside enough engines yet (a few hundred maybe) to understand why this is truly a problem. I's day 95% of the engines I have been in, had varnish. Some of them, LOTS.

This KA24 engine is the same basic one thats in my 240sx (with minor differences for mine being RWD and this one being FWD). As soon as I got it, it went onto a steady diet of Mobil 1 (I have no idea what the previous owner used).

A year or two later, it started consuming oil. Bad valve seals. Very typical for this engine. Switched to dino for a 3-4 months until I had time to change them. Finally got around to it. Pulled the cover, looked pretty much like the picture in the original post. Fair bit of varnish under the cover, a bit on the cams, tiny specks of sludge here and there. Nothing remarkable. Replaced the seals, drained the dino, back onto Mobil 1.

Couple years later, started consuming oil again. Back onto dino. Found QS 20w-50 on sale at Wal mart, $1 a quart. Bought all they had, a dozen or so. Watered it down with about 15-20% MMO. Went about 3-4 months like this. Pulled the cover, looked pretty much same as it did before. Varnish under the cover, a bit on the cams, maybe a tiny bit less right above the timing chain. Tiny specks of sludge here and there. Nothing remarkable. Replaced the cheapy valve seals I had used, they were hard as rock. Drained the dino/MMO, back onto Mobil 1.

Been on a steady diet of Mobil 1 in various flavors (mostly 0w-40 or HM 10-30), and Rotella 5w-40 ever since. Pulled the valve cover yet again not long ago to investigate a minor leak. Guess what... same varnish, same places, pretty much like it always had, pretty much like the pictures in the original post. Honestly cant really say it looks any different than it ever did, or any different from any KA I have been inside while meandering around the various junkyards around town (and I do that a lot).

My point? If 10+ yearsand over 125000+ miles, probably 90% of it on Mobil 1 (HM and regular) or Rotella, and a few several-month stints of dino spiked with MMO didnt make a dent in the varnish in mine, it probably isnt going to do squat in yours either. One or two oil changes with various high mileage oils isnt going to do it....a few MMO treatments wont do it... why bother. Personally, I dont see a problem.

Just throwing my $0.02 out there.
 
There is a guy that's column appears in our NY paper that owns a repair business in Mass. and he seems to have alot of knowledge from that fact. I would assume a statement of this nature comes from that background. However if such a statement comes from a vested interest like a oil distributor its value is greatly diminished IMHO
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I know
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: 4ever4d
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
A few runs of PYB should clean it up nice....other than thatm she's fine...

+1 Same thing i was thinking.


Where do you guys come up with this junk?

A couple runs of a conventional oil will clean that right up. Sure.

The engine looks typical for a engine run on conventional and taken beyond 5K more than a couple times. Not near immediate death from varnish.
 
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Originally Posted By: Phishin
It's just me, but I HATE Pennzoil. Hate that stuff. Why? I have no idea. Because I do. I will NOT put it in anything I own. I'm a Pennzoil racist and hater. Yellow puts me in a bad mood.

If I was gonna put any straight oil in it to clean it up, it would be M1 HM or TDT. But I don't have much faith in just oil removing this gunk. I think the detergents in good oils today can PREVENT varnish and sludge from accumulating...but not get rid of it.

I'm still gonna try the MMO. If no better after 3000 miles, in goes the Kreen. I have plenty on hand.


Asian cars do seem to like M1, but I will be trying Ultra on a GM 3800, see what happens. Don't think MMO is very good at the hardened deposits. I like the quality synthetics for cleanups. Not only do they do a good job on their own, they provide a good base when diluting oil with solvents. I have done what your thinking about a few times now - M1 HM for 4k, Kreen at the end for 1k. Worked like a champ.
 
I have some MMO on board now. I believe Ottotheclown. So, I'm gonna say nix on the MMO treatments and just go straight to some kreen at the next OC and take a pic at the end of 4000 miles. Might leave Kreen in for 2k though. Just to make sure I get that gunk out of there.

I'm really not worried about the varnish. I really don't want to "waste" the Kreen treating something I don't think is an issue.

This engine already has a leak in the front seal. Hope Kreen doesn't make it worse.
 
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