Last time I was home, dad decided to do an oil change on mom's Liberty with 2.8L diesel. He ended up buying 10w40 Valvoline. I told him that he's running the wrong type of fluid and that he should really get some Rotella T6. How bad is it to run 10w40? I'm sure he's thinking the 40w is 40w.
Dad's '06 Liberty 2.8L Diesel
- Thread starter CErnst
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I'd change it with the diesel-rated oil myself. Gasoline and diesel engine oils are often two different oils, and nary do the twain meet.
Originally Posted By: CErnst
I'm sure he's thinking the 40w is 40w.
Um
I'm sure he's thinking the 40w is 40w.
Um
The PCMO oil is not designed to deal with the extreem contaminants that a Diesel engine puts in the oil. Change it ASAP.
The factory recommends 0W40 for that engine. Then states that 5w40 can be used if 0W40 is not available.
From the 2006 Jeep Liberty FSM:
" ENGINE OIL - DIESEL ENGINES
Only use synthetic engine oils meeting the API Categories
SL/CF and Chrysler Material Standard
MS-10725. Those engine oils not meeting the viscosity
and API Quality and MS-10725 requirements should
not be used.
SAE VISCOSITY GRADE
The preferred engine oil is SAE 0W-40 Mobil One Synthetic. If you can not locate SAE 0W-40 Mobil One Synthetic,
then SAE 5W-40 Mobil One Synthetic would be acceptable."
From the 2006 Jeep Liberty FSM:
" ENGINE OIL - DIESEL ENGINES
Only use synthetic engine oils meeting the API Categories
SL/CF and Chrysler Material Standard
MS-10725. Those engine oils not meeting the viscosity
and API Quality and MS-10725 requirements should
not be used.
SAE VISCOSITY GRADE
The preferred engine oil is SAE 0W-40 Mobil One Synthetic. If you can not locate SAE 0W-40 Mobil One Synthetic,
then SAE 5W-40 Mobil One Synthetic would be acceptable."
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Mobil 1 0W40 is an excellent choice, better than Rotella T6 IMHO. It has a higher TBN to fight acids placed in the oil by the (evil) EGR system, and is the usual best choice for pre DPF European small diesels.
It is an example of an oil that works well for both gasoline engines and small diesels.
Charlie
It is an example of an oil that works well for both gasoline engines and small diesels.
Charlie
Newby here and I know this is an old thread BUT
I own a 2006 Liberty CRD that I bought new.
I follow a very active CRD forum and as they age it's apparent that as many have known all along Chrysler called for the WRONG oil from the git go. These engines in North America are running very high EGR resulting in high amounts of soot in the oil and require a CI4PLUS rated oil that the specified oil is not.
What's happening to those who followed Chrysler's specified oil is the bearings in the 16 "fingers" that act like rocker arms between the twin cams and 16 valves are wearing out and in extreme instances causing catistrophic failures in as little as 70k miles. The same engines are used in Europe in taxicab service and last 300,000 miles and the top ends are still servicable.
There are two differences between here and there.
One a different oil is specified
Two Much less EGR resulting in much less soot in the oil.
Start using a modern diesel rated CI-4+ 5-40 oil Like Rotella T6
I own a 2006 Liberty CRD that I bought new.
I follow a very active CRD forum and as they age it's apparent that as many have known all along Chrysler called for the WRONG oil from the git go. These engines in North America are running very high EGR resulting in high amounts of soot in the oil and require a CI4PLUS rated oil that the specified oil is not.
What's happening to those who followed Chrysler's specified oil is the bearings in the 16 "fingers" that act like rocker arms between the twin cams and 16 valves are wearing out and in extreme instances causing catistrophic failures in as little as 70k miles. The same engines are used in Europe in taxicab service and last 300,000 miles and the top ends are still servicable.
There are two differences between here and there.
One a different oil is specified
Two Much less EGR resulting in much less soot in the oil.
Start using a modern diesel rated CI-4+ 5-40 oil Like Rotella T6
JoBo, they are indeed used in the 2.5 variant in the TX4 London Taxi, I own one.
They also have a bad record as car as bottom ends letting go at around 100k, sometimes as low as 80k.
Personally.i think it is due to drivers putting dino oil or semi synth and running it out to 10/12k sometimes more and not taking into account they operate under severe service.
Mine has just passed the 176k mark and is currently running very well for the past 5/6 k on 10w40 Maxlife Diesel Synth Blend.
Using that APi spec you quote is a good idea as several Mobil Delvac products fit the bill.
However an easier approach is simply to make sure it is an A3/B4 oil as this engine is a VM and made in Italy
It is a fairly complex engine though I should point out the Taxi version of the engine has a very different EGR to the one fitted to the Liberty/Cherokee.
Those users that have changed semi at sensible 5/7 k intervals or only used full synth up to 10/12k have had no issues with bottom ends.
I have considered using 0w40 Mobil 1New Life and I am also considering using 5w40 Castrol Edge FST. But I can also source well priced Chevron Supreme 10w40 and Castrol Magnatec 10w40 semi synth.
If I change at 5/6k I have ran the filter two interval once or twice. Oil filter I use is the Bosch one from EuroCarParts which is huge.
You are correct in that the top ends are not problematic in the UK Taxis it is bottom end issues that are the problem.
As an aside mine has been well looked after as far as oil changes goes and was parked beside a 17k mile TX4 when both started up after sitting for an hour the low miler sounded very sweet indeed, full synth from new.
More importantly my high miler didn't sound that different.
Oh, welcome to the forum.
They also have a bad record as car as bottom ends letting go at around 100k, sometimes as low as 80k.
Personally.i think it is due to drivers putting dino oil or semi synth and running it out to 10/12k sometimes more and not taking into account they operate under severe service.
Mine has just passed the 176k mark and is currently running very well for the past 5/6 k on 10w40 Maxlife Diesel Synth Blend.
Using that APi spec you quote is a good idea as several Mobil Delvac products fit the bill.
However an easier approach is simply to make sure it is an A3/B4 oil as this engine is a VM and made in Italy
It is a fairly complex engine though I should point out the Taxi version of the engine has a very different EGR to the one fitted to the Liberty/Cherokee.
Those users that have changed semi at sensible 5/7 k intervals or only used full synth up to 10/12k have had no issues with bottom ends.
I have considered using 0w40 Mobil 1New Life and I am also considering using 5w40 Castrol Edge FST. But I can also source well priced Chevron Supreme 10w40 and Castrol Magnatec 10w40 semi synth.
If I change at 5/6k I have ran the filter two interval once or twice. Oil filter I use is the Bosch one from EuroCarParts which is huge.
You are correct in that the top ends are not problematic in the UK Taxis it is bottom end issues that are the problem.
As an aside mine has been well looked after as far as oil changes goes and was parked beside a 17k mile TX4 when both started up after sitting for an hour the low miler sounded very sweet indeed, full synth from new.
More importantly my high miler didn't sound that different.
Oh, welcome to the forum.
I have 105,000 miles on my '06 Jeep Liberty Diesel. Have not had a single failure of any components. Just basic scheduled maintenance items. I have used Amsoil synthetic 5w40 and Chevron Delo synthetic 5w40. Both CJ-4 category. I like the latter now because I can get it at Wally World for $19.98 a gallon. The Jeep has usually gotten 10,000 - 11,000 mile oil changes. Great motor when operated properly and taken care of. Does require a couple of little "tweaks" to make it almost bullet proof.
I have a Green Diesel Engineering flash which neuters the EGR and mnimizes soot intake.
I have tried Rotella T6 and it works fine except for cold starts in the winter--it has a bit of clatter till things warm up.
I tried Castrol 5w-40 Euro formula which is a CF and B4 oil. Its thinner so it flows a bit better on cold starts.
Recently I put in 0w-30 German Castrol because it is also a CF and B4 oil that is almost a 40 weight. Mobil 1 0w-40 often shears down to a high 30 weight and German Castrol typically stays a high 30 weight. On a colds start this week without any plug-in it started smoothly and with significantly less clatter than we typically hear on a cold start. This may be a good choice if your warranty is expired and if you have a tune which eliminates the soot from the EGR.
I have tried Rotella T6 and it works fine except for cold starts in the winter--it has a bit of clatter till things warm up.
I tried Castrol 5w-40 Euro formula which is a CF and B4 oil. Its thinner so it flows a bit better on cold starts.
Recently I put in 0w-30 German Castrol because it is also a CF and B4 oil that is almost a 40 weight. Mobil 1 0w-40 often shears down to a high 30 weight and German Castrol typically stays a high 30 weight. On a colds start this week without any plug-in it started smoothly and with significantly less clatter than we typically hear on a cold start. This may be a good choice if your warranty is expired and if you have a tune which eliminates the soot from the EGR.
I also have the Green Diesel ECM flash and highly recommend it to anyone with a CRD Jeep.
Originally Posted By: m37charlie
Mobil 1 0W40 is an excellent choice, better than Rotella T6 IMHO. It has a higher TBN to fight acids placed in the oil by the (evil) EGR system, and is the usual best choice for pre DPF European small diesels.
It is an example of an oil that works well for both gasoline engines and small diesels.
Charlie
I've got an evil EGR, but it doesn't dump acid as far as I have heard of or seen in a UOA. DPF's sometimes cause some fuel contamination, but a high detergent content oil won't help offset fuel contamination.
Try reading some UOA comparisons of Rotella vs M1 0/40 and look at the wear metals in particular for a diesel, as the classic Delvacs and Rotellas are real good in many diesels.
I'm in the EU and not so many diesel folks use M1 0/40, they prefer Castrol Edge (Or Magnetec) and Liqui Moly oils. M1 is a distant third just ahead of Shell in private sales terms.
Mobil 1 0W40 is an excellent choice, better than Rotella T6 IMHO. It has a higher TBN to fight acids placed in the oil by the (evil) EGR system, and is the usual best choice for pre DPF European small diesels.
It is an example of an oil that works well for both gasoline engines and small diesels.
Charlie
I've got an evil EGR, but it doesn't dump acid as far as I have heard of or seen in a UOA. DPF's sometimes cause some fuel contamination, but a high detergent content oil won't help offset fuel contamination.
Try reading some UOA comparisons of Rotella vs M1 0/40 and look at the wear metals in particular for a diesel, as the classic Delvacs and Rotellas are real good in many diesels.
I'm in the EU and not so many diesel folks use M1 0/40, they prefer Castrol Edge (Or Magnetec) and Liqui Moly oils. M1 is a distant third just ahead of Shell in private sales terms.
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I'd use devlac or rotella.
I have mainly used Mobil 1 0w40 in the Clio. Currently running it in the Taxi and it runs well on with no oil consumption.
I think a lot more people run Mobil 1 0w40 in diesels in Europe, specifically the UK in my case, than you may think.
Why else would Mobil market two identical oils in the UK, one called New Life Nd one called Turbo Diesel?
If not due to there being a market for diesel owners looking for a 0w40 oil for their diesels.
I think a lot more people run Mobil 1 0w40 in diesels in Europe, specifically the UK in my case, than you may think.
Why else would Mobil market two identical oils in the UK, one called New Life Nd one called Turbo Diesel?
If not due to there being a market for diesel owners looking for a 0w40 oil for their diesels.
The silly DPF game is complicating things in terms of selecting oils as it has resulted in a quite a number of new ones.
Mobil seem more popular in Blighty than Germany, in fact I was thinking of using Delvac 5/40, but I can only find it in Poland and it costs 64 Euros for only 4 ltrs! Rimula only do a 5/30 or 10/40, but at least that oil is cheaper, even Delvac 10/40 is 45 Euros for 4 ltrs.
Castrol are fighting back against loosing pole position in Germany to Liqui Moly in the private sales field, so I am going to use Castrol Turbo Diesel 5/40 HC synthetic next as it was only 40 Euros inc postage for 6 ltrs!
I have sent an enquiry to Castrol to find out how much Zinc is in their TD 5/40 because I was told they have figured out a way of increasing it slightly without breaching the DPF ash limits. Their normal Edge 5/40 is still too expensive in Germany for some odd reason, although that is probably because there are more diesel cars here and a better case for marketing diesel only oils.
Mobil seem more popular in Blighty than Germany, in fact I was thinking of using Delvac 5/40, but I can only find it in Poland and it costs 64 Euros for only 4 ltrs! Rimula only do a 5/30 or 10/40, but at least that oil is cheaper, even Delvac 10/40 is 45 Euros for 4 ltrs.
Castrol are fighting back against loosing pole position in Germany to Liqui Moly in the private sales field, so I am going to use Castrol Turbo Diesel 5/40 HC synthetic next as it was only 40 Euros inc postage for 6 ltrs!
I have sent an enquiry to Castrol to find out how much Zinc is in their TD 5/40 because I was told they have figured out a way of increasing it slightly without breaching the DPF ash limits. Their normal Edge 5/40 is still too expensive in Germany for some odd reason, although that is probably because there are more diesel cars here and a better case for marketing diesel only oils.
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