New slave cylinder, correct re-assembly help?

[ltslimjim]

Today, I received the replacement slave cylinder in the mail for my Civic.

The replacement comes with the sliding pin(?) dis-assembled and I'm curious as to the type of lube to use and I need to know the correct method of getting it ready to be installed on the vehicle.

I'm aware perhaps a dab of anti-siece on the tip that contacts the clutch fork is sometimes helpful, but what about the pin itself? I don't know whether or not I should even bother removing the rubber boot to lube inside or lube the pin and insert it carefully while it is still attached to the cylinder itself. Any tips on assembly lube I can buy at an auto parts store for this? I've never done this before, and didn't know this particular aftermarket would come this way.

For those interested, it is an EXEDY SC646 and they do make quality parts for Japanese made/origin apps.

 

[yonyon]

If the sliding pin you're talking about is the pushrod, lube the end that pushes the fork with a high moly grease or ceramic lube marketed for use on brakes or input shaft splines. If the pushrod is threaded for adjustment, lube the threads with (insert corrosion inhibitor or antiseize of choice here) as suits personal preference. Any other parts may be lubed only with clutch hydraulic fluid which I would assume is DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.

 

[ltslimjim]

Yes, it's the pushrod that inserts into the slave's shaft which is used to actuate the fork > release/throw out bearing.

The replacement slave I purchased arrived today with the pushrod not installed, so my questions have been what parts to lube with what and also 'how' to install into the shaft of the slave cylinder(the pushrod that is).

So, inside the shaft use brake fluid(I had read assembly lube elsewhere), it is just a sliding pin/pushrod not threaded into the slave's shaft AFAIK.

Unlike the pushrod at the master cylinder; mind you, which is threaded.

The slave functions based on the thickness of the friction disc over time. The clutch was replaced this past December, since then the master cylinder was replaced but the slave has exhibited worse symptoms. Probably from being adjusted out to it's max for so long on the old clutch.

I've read a 'dap' of anti-sieze at the pivot from this rod; which I still need to install into the slave, is perfectly fine. So, I didn't think I needed a ceramic or moly grease for this job.

That is my 2 concerns here: Lube type; relative to points, and installation of the rod into the slave itself.

Honestly, I thought it'd come pre-assembled. I don't want to risk tearing the rubber boot on the new part primarily. I should go read the FSM.

 

[ltslimjim]

Wow, I must be really brain dead. I got the push rod installed, no problems. You don't want to know...

Now to put the new slave cylinder on the car so I can drive to where I'm getting the head gasket job done!

 

[mechtech2]

Inside use brake fluid . I don't see why you should take it apart to do this, however. But if you did, use brake fluid.
Use moly grease on the pushrod, NOT antiseize. A.S. is not a lubricant.

 

[ltslimjim]

Gotcha. Yeah, I didn't take the boot off. I found out the rod does slide into the boot, no problem. I was curious of assembling the assembly, at first, because the new part came with the push rod not installed into the boot. First slave cylinder replacement.

...and then became more concerned with proper lube. Does the pushrod need any lubricant inside the boot or the part of the rod that touches the fork the only concern with the rod regarding lubricant?

Going to install it now. Should be fun bleeding after.

 

[MarkM66]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Wow, I must be really brain dead. I got the push rod installed, no problems. You don't want to know...

Now to put the new slave cylinder on the car so I can drive to where I'm getting the head gasket job done!

Head gasket is a DIY on these cars.

 

[mechtech2]

The pushrod has two ends, and should have lube on both.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Wow, I must be really brain dead. I got the push rod installed, no problems. You don't want to know...

Now to put the new slave cylinder on the car so I can drive to where I'm getting the head gasket job done!

Head gasket is a DIY on these cars.

Well, I've enlisted the help of someone with experience compared to my 'zero', and hopefully I'll learn a bit as he takes the lead on it.

 

[ltslimjim]

Ok, I failed to lube the push rod before inserting into the boot(though I did lube the head which contacts the fork) with some Coastal brand moly grease(for multi-purpose etc, looks like potentially a graphite/moly complex grease)...

Anyway, other than that potential concern. I've wondered, even though a 'non cable operated' adjustment...could the pedal adjustment in this hydraulic clutch system now be off since it was set with a 'bad' slave cylinder? It feels like it takes more than half of the pedal travel now before the car chokes/needs fuel etc. I'd almost prefer to put it down to a 1/3 pedal travel before the free-play, so even if resting my foot; thus partially depressing the pedal, it won't be disengaging the clutch while the pedal is slightly depressed.

(translation: giving myself 2/3s pedal travel of free play)

 

[mechtech2]

You can simply manually push the rod back into the slave cyl, and remove it to grease it. A couple of pumps on the pedal afterwards will get it back to zero.

There is a clutch pedal height adjustment/spec that you may want to check/adjust.
Also, the pushrod to the master cyl should have minimal freeplay - zero or just a hair is my preference. This is a hydraulic clutch system's vital adjustment for feel and release point.

 

[ltslimjim]

Minimal free play...as in, not the lazy approach but most of the pedal motion involves working the release bearing/the pressure plate? I've seen the ETCG video on youtube relative to clutch hydraulics and from your description it sounds as if that was the way he demonstrated.

Basically, loosen the locking nut and twist the rod in just until it starts to cause the slave to move the fork/you get resistance, and back it off like a 1/4 turn. About right?

Thanks for the tip on the push rod, I'll have to find a way to get to it through the dust boot.

 

[mechtech2]

The freeplay is on the pedal. CRawl under the dash and see how the pedal connects to the master cyl [clutch, of course].
Get to zero -maybe just a hair of freeplay.
Like you surmise, a locknut and a twist. One minute job.