i don't know which i used. what makes you say neutered?
Best oil to clean sludge ?
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Originally Posted By: Arctic388
i don't know which i used. what makes you say neutered?
X2??
i don't know which i used. what makes you say neutered?
X2??
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Last couple of UOA's I saw for Ultra looked like SN had dropped to around 2200 ppm calcium, very average, the SM had more like 3000.
Maybe it was lab errors.
Maybe it was lab errors.
my last stop by the Wally I world found one jug of PU that was still SM so I bought it for my next oil change. I plan to run the current mix with the new filter about 600-800 miles then change to the Ultra.
Over 1k on filter and 2k on oil. Plan to change today. Will post filter dissection.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Arctic388
1996 Tahoe bought at 211K miles. been using Amsoil and pl24011 and PF52 filters at 229922 miles now.
www.youtube.com/arctic388/videos for videos of cut open oil filters and oil change mileages.
On the oil change after using Amsoil engine flush i used Pennzoil Ultra and with 1600 miles changed and filter was full of carbon. Thinking I might continue to use Pennzoil Ultra until filters start looking better then switch back to Amsoil.
I want to know what is the best oil to use to clean out sludge.
I would use Amsoil engine flush at reduce dosage 1/2 oz engine flush per quart of oil but drive the car for about 100 miles before changing oil. Do several 1k OCI's with any dino oil with engine flush added at 900 miles.
I used Lubegard engine flush at the dosage above in my LS400 2-3 years ago, it did very good in cleaning and didn't cause any harm to the engine.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I cannot advise you to drive the car with Amsoil engine flush. I know the fellows are recommending a much lighter dose and driving, but still - I'm not saying it will harm anything, but it's not really been tested.
I'm late to the party. Here goes:
I see Pablo's point and I was also at first opposed to HTSS_TR's suggestion in the past.
However, if done with extreme caution to the dosing ratio and checking the oil filter at short intervals/having an oil pressure gauge if possible as well, I believe using either of these 'non-solvent' containing flushes at a couple ounces for short intervals with filter changes would be an interesting experiment.
Yet, the part of me fully going through with it would have to have the cautions such as a pressure gauge and keeping up with miles on filter would be important "decision makers."
Originally Posted By: Arctic388
1996 Tahoe bought at 211K miles. been using Amsoil and pl24011 and PF52 filters at 229922 miles now.
www.youtube.com/arctic388/videos for videos of cut open oil filters and oil change mileages.
On the oil change after using Amsoil engine flush i used Pennzoil Ultra and with 1600 miles changed and filter was full of carbon. Thinking I might continue to use Pennzoil Ultra until filters start looking better then switch back to Amsoil.
I want to know what is the best oil to use to clean out sludge.
I would use Amsoil engine flush at reduce dosage 1/2 oz engine flush per quart of oil but drive the car for about 100 miles before changing oil. Do several 1k OCI's with any dino oil with engine flush added at 900 miles.
I used Lubegard engine flush at the dosage above in my LS400 2-3 years ago, it did very good in cleaning and didn't cause any harm to the engine.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I cannot advise you to drive the car with Amsoil engine flush. I know the fellows are recommending a much lighter dose and driving, but still - I'm not saying it will harm anything, but it's not really been tested.
I'm late to the party. Here goes:
I see Pablo's point and I was also at first opposed to HTSS_TR's suggestion in the past.
However, if done with extreme caution to the dosing ratio and checking the oil filter at short intervals/having an oil pressure gauge if possible as well, I believe using either of these 'non-solvent' containing flushes at a couple ounces for short intervals with filter changes would be an interesting experiment.
Yet, the part of me fully going through with it would have to have the cautions such as a pressure gauge and keeping up with miles on filter would be important "decision makers."
this is the filter with 1K miles on the filter and 2K on the oil.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4O5jI7ky7E&feature=plcp
and
this is the above filter and the one before it where i cut the pleats out and stretched them out. sorry about the shaking of the video it was 100+ degrees and i was HOT.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBgWlc-fQqQ&feature=plcp
changed the oil out and now using Pennzoil ultra 10w30.
i didn't think the last one was as bad as the previous ones but still had a lot of carbon in the filter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4O5jI7ky7E&feature=plcp
and
this is the above filter and the one before it where i cut the pleats out and stretched them out. sorry about the shaking of the video it was 100+ degrees and i was HOT.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBgWlc-fQqQ&feature=plcp
changed the oil out and now using Pennzoil ultra 10w30.
i didn't think the last one was as bad as the previous ones but still had a lot of carbon in the filter.
Using flushing oil or additives is too dodgy in my and most dealers opinions. If it is a serious sludge problem causing the low oil pressure light to flicker when hot, then shut down the engine, tow it to your favourite garage and them have both the sump and head clean properly.
If it is just normal soft sludge rather than real hard varnish, warm up the engine and add a can of Liqui Moly flush or similar product that is designed only for use at idle RPM.
You let the engine idle after adding the 300mls and then drain the oil and fit a cheap filter. Fill up with a cheap dino oil that has lots of Calcium detergents and drive the car for only one week max, then do the same job again, BUT this time use a real manufacturers oil filter and a fully synthetic oil with all the approvals and correct viscosity from a major brand.
Try to pick a fully synthetic with a high detergent additives figure (I use LM Synthoil High Tech 5/40) and then see what a UOA says after 5000 miles.
If it is just normal soft sludge rather than real hard varnish, warm up the engine and add a can of Liqui Moly flush or similar product that is designed only for use at idle RPM.
You let the engine idle after adding the 300mls and then drain the oil and fit a cheap filter. Fill up with a cheap dino oil that has lots of Calcium detergents and drive the car for only one week max, then do the same job again, BUT this time use a real manufacturers oil filter and a fully synthetic oil with all the approvals and correct viscosity from a major brand.
Try to pick a fully synthetic with a high detergent additives figure (I use LM Synthoil High Tech 5/40) and then see what a UOA says after 5000 miles.
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Most any SN rated oil I've seen has a good ammount of cleaning power... even Auto Part store brand WPP made stuff. Why not find a sale... 2.50/qt or so, and do some short OCI's.. 1K miles or so.. and continue to inspect things as you go...
I've had motors stay amazingly clean with Auto Part Store brand oil.
My idea stems on... frequent changes with a less luxurious filter will hopefully eliminate worries about a clogged up filter, and also hopefully control costs.
Although a 10$ filter and 10$/q super fancy synthetic oil would be nice, a 3$ filter, and 2.50/qt oils would likely do the job just as well, and cheaper... 3 OCI's for the price of one.
Although I'd love to say "Brand X is best"... I'd be telling stories. Most current SN oils clean pretty well, so let's just find a bargain until we get it washed out.
I've had motors stay amazingly clean with Auto Part Store brand oil.
My idea stems on... frequent changes with a less luxurious filter will hopefully eliminate worries about a clogged up filter, and also hopefully control costs.
Although a 10$ filter and 10$/q super fancy synthetic oil would be nice, a 3$ filter, and 2.50/qt oils would likely do the job just as well, and cheaper... 3 OCI's for the price of one.
Although I'd love to say "Brand X is best"... I'd be telling stories. Most current SN oils clean pretty well, so let's just find a bargain until we get it washed out.
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