When the weather gets hot, the seats get sticky. Please help, I can't stand it no more.
Sticky Leather Car Seats
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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Are you using any kind`ve leather conditioner on them?
Easy! I use Collinte leather and vinyl wax. Not only does it slick up your seats it protects them as well. I use it on all my leather seat cars. Got it at autogeek.net
Cheers!
Cheers!
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Are you using any kind`ve leather conditioner on them?
No, do you recommend anything?
Originally Posted By: double vanos
Easy! I use Collinte leather and vinyl wax. Not only does it slick up your seats it protects them as well. I use it on all my leather seat cars. Got it at autogeek.net
Cheers!
Thank you sir.
Are you using any kind`ve leather conditioner on them?
No, do you recommend anything?
Originally Posted By: double vanos
Easy! I use Collinte leather and vinyl wax. Not only does it slick up your seats it protects them as well. I use it on all my leather seat cars. Got it at autogeek.net
Cheers!
Thank you sir.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
When the weather gets hot, the seats get sticky. Please help, I can't stand it no more.
MaxLife 10w-40. Sorry, couldn't resist.
Most of the name brand cleaner/conditioners work well. If you want a two stage thing, Autoglym, if I recall correctly, has separate leather cleaners and conditioners.
When the weather gets hot, the seats get sticky. Please help, I can't stand it no more.
MaxLife 10w-40. Sorry, couldn't resist.
Most of the name brand cleaner/conditioners work well. If you want a two stage thing, Autoglym, if I recall correctly, has separate leather cleaners and conditioners.
95% of the leather in cars today is vinyl coated. With that in mind leather conditioners do not penetrate the vinyl and never reach the leather. You can test this with one drop of water...if it sinks into the leather it is "raw" and not coated. If it runs then it is coated. Assuming coated, clean the seats with Woolite & water. 8 parts water to 1 part Woolite for lightly soiled, 6 to 1 for dirty. When done wipe off with a damp towel preferably microfiber to avoid threads & lint. You can finalize that once dry with Aerospace 303 just like any other plastic surface but it will make it slightly slippery. For me slippery/slick seats in a driving environment is not a good thing.
Keeping any leather clean of body oils is most important, coated or otherwise. If your ride is a Ford King Ranch they do NOT use coated leather and absolutely need products made strictly for raw leather.
Keeping any leather clean of body oils is most important, coated or otherwise. If your ride is a Ford King Ranch they do NOT use coated leather and absolutely need products made strictly for raw leather.
It is caused by body oils accumulating on the seats. Salts primarily. Hope that didn't gross anybody out.
Woolite and water works great but make sure to really rinse out the seats with damp MFs. 303 is great for just about everything but glass and carpet. Gives good protection and has UV protectors. I use it all the time. Texas is spot on.
Leatherique is a high end cleaner that works WONDERS but takes time to apply, settle and clean. It is bar none the best product I have ever used. The cleaner seeps into the leather and draws out oils and dirt that no other cleaner does and the conditioner makes them feel like new again. If you are going to use this method I would allow 24-36 hours for the cleaner to work itself in and then apply the conditioner. Again, it is high end stuff but it will feel softer then a babies' butt when finished
Woolite and water works great but make sure to really rinse out the seats with damp MFs. 303 is great for just about everything but glass and carpet. Gives good protection and has UV protectors. I use it all the time. Texas is spot on.
Leatherique is a high end cleaner that works WONDERS but takes time to apply, settle and clean. It is bar none the best product I have ever used. The cleaner seeps into the leather and draws out oils and dirt that no other cleaner does and the conditioner makes them feel like new again. If you are going to use this method I would allow 24-36 hours for the cleaner to work itself in and then apply the conditioner. Again, it is high end stuff but it will feel softer then a babies' butt when finished
Originally Posted By: RTexasF
95% of the leather in cars today is vinyl coated. With that in mind leather conditioners do not penetrate the vinyl and never reach the leather. You can test this with one drop of water...if it sinks into the leather it is "raw" and not coated. If it runs then it is coated. Assuming coated, clean the seats with Woolite & water. 8 parts water to 1 part Woolite for lightly soiled, 6 to 1 for dirty. When done wipe off with a damp towel preferably microfiber to avoid threads & lint. You can finalize that once dry with Aerospace 303 just like any other plastic surface but it will make it slightly slippery. For me slippery/slick seats in a driving environment is not a good thing.
Keeping any leather clean of body oils is most important, coated or otherwise. If your ride is a Ford King Ranch they do NOT use coated leather and absolutely need products made strictly for raw leather.
+1 A few years back I finally understood why the leather in my 98 Volvo still cracked even though I'd regularly used Lexol: The leather was vinyl covered and I was using an oil-based product on it, which over time probably dissolved the vinyl.
I now use Lexol leather CLEANER and follow up with 303. Works great for vinyl-covered leather seats.
95% of the leather in cars today is vinyl coated. With that in mind leather conditioners do not penetrate the vinyl and never reach the leather. You can test this with one drop of water...if it sinks into the leather it is "raw" and not coated. If it runs then it is coated. Assuming coated, clean the seats with Woolite & water. 8 parts water to 1 part Woolite for lightly soiled, 6 to 1 for dirty. When done wipe off with a damp towel preferably microfiber to avoid threads & lint. You can finalize that once dry with Aerospace 303 just like any other plastic surface but it will make it slightly slippery. For me slippery/slick seats in a driving environment is not a good thing.
Keeping any leather clean of body oils is most important, coated or otherwise. If your ride is a Ford King Ranch they do NOT use coated leather and absolutely need products made strictly for raw leather.
+1 A few years back I finally understood why the leather in my 98 Volvo still cracked even though I'd regularly used Lexol: The leather was vinyl covered and I was using an oil-based product on it, which over time probably dissolved the vinyl.
I now use Lexol leather CLEANER and follow up with 303. Works great for vinyl-covered leather seats.
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
+1 A few years back I finally understood why the leather in my 98 Volvo still cracked even though I'd regularly used Lexol: The leather was vinyl covered and I was using an oil-based product on it, which over time probably dissolved the vinyl.
I now use Lexol leather CLEANER and follow up with 303. Works great for vinyl-covered leather seats.
Base Volvo leather takes a LOT of attention to keep it looking decent. Even with plenty of care, it still cracks a little (better than no care - UGLY). It's been a weakness on them for years. I avoid them for cloth or the premium leather option whenever it's available. Well Leatherique'd atacama is almost obscene to sit on, with an aroma to die for.
+1 A few years back I finally understood why the leather in my 98 Volvo still cracked even though I'd regularly used Lexol: The leather was vinyl covered and I was using an oil-based product on it, which over time probably dissolved the vinyl.
I now use Lexol leather CLEANER and follow up with 303. Works great for vinyl-covered leather seats.
Base Volvo leather takes a LOT of attention to keep it looking decent. Even with plenty of care, it still cracks a little (better than no care - UGLY). It's been a weakness on them for years. I avoid them for cloth or the premium leather option whenever it's available. Well Leatherique'd atacama is almost obscene to sit on, with an aroma to die for.
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Base Volvo leather takes a LOT of attention to keep it looking decent. Even with plenty of care, it still cracks a little (better than no care - UGLY). It's been a weakness on them for years. I avoid them for cloth or the premium leather option whenever it's available. Well Leatherique'd atacama is almost obscene to sit on, with an aroma to die for.
Yep. My rear seats look brand new, though it's rare I have people sitting in them. The front passenger is fine too. But the driver...UGH. Awfull. Major disapointment. I swapped the bottom seat cover & cushion and have kept at it with 303. It has fine cracks though. Next I'll swap the seat-back leather cover, as the driver side looks awfull. This way I'll have swapped both surfaces with the passenger seat, which I can then remove and drop off at an auto upholstery shop.
My 14yr old SAAB cloth seats survived all that time without even a tear! Volvo really cheaped out on the 'leather'...
Base Volvo leather takes a LOT of attention to keep it looking decent. Even with plenty of care, it still cracks a little (better than no care - UGLY). It's been a weakness on them for years. I avoid them for cloth or the premium leather option whenever it's available. Well Leatherique'd atacama is almost obscene to sit on, with an aroma to die for.
Yep. My rear seats look brand new, though it's rare I have people sitting in them. The front passenger is fine too. But the driver...UGH. Awfull. Major disapointment. I swapped the bottom seat cover & cushion and have kept at it with 303. It has fine cracks though. Next I'll swap the seat-back leather cover, as the driver side looks awfull. This way I'll have swapped both surfaces with the passenger seat, which I can then remove and drop off at an auto upholstery shop.
My 14yr old SAAB cloth seats survived all that time without even a tear! Volvo really cheaped out on the 'leather'...
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