going to try auto rx. here is the "before" pictures.

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ok, i have been in email contact with frank and ordered a bottle of auto-rx from him. im going to be honest here. im skeptical about auto-rx cleaning an engine. the only thing i have found to clean an engine good is automatic transmission fluid. however, i am going to do this with an open mind and an honest hand. i took "before" pictures when i had to change a valve cover gasket. when i took the pictures i used alot of lighting and a sunny day to try and get a good view "into" the crevices of the cylinder head. i will use this same technique when i take the "after" pictures.

the car is a 1996 kia sephia with a 1996 mazda miata bp-5 engine. its got 60K miles, all of which have been with a good quality dino oil, be it havoline, castrol or delo 400. it has only seen 3K mile oil changes, and purolator oil filters. i have an oil pressure guage from stewart warner installed which says i have 12psi oil pressure at idle, and about 50psi at 4000rpm's. this is a little on the low side.

this will be my thread where i show my expierence with auto-rx.

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Crypto: Good show; I like to see actual tests made by people who care.
I really hope it makes it shine, but after 40+ years of wonder additives I still have my doubts.
Keep us updated.
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Smokey 14, Auto-Rx is NOT an additive, it works with other chemistry besides engine oil. That said Auto-Rx is "UP" for this and thanks "Crytpo Kid" for having the class to buy the product.

Frank
 
Alright, this is going to be interesting. I'm glad to see some pictures being taken, I hope it sparks others to do the same, not just with AutoRx, but with other products as well.
Incidentally, that engine looks quite reasonably clean. It shows that 3000 mile changes even on mineral oil can give you good service. Thanks for the post cryptokid.
 
its kind of hard to tell by the pictures because my digicam is not a high quality unit but there is sludge in the corners and crevices of the head. this will be the thing i am hopeing to be cleaned out.

also, when i change my oil and filter i will be disecting my oil filter. and when i change the oil and filter with the auto-rx i will disect that as well and post pictures of both filters.
i will assume that the auto-rx filter wont be "clooged to the brim" because quite frankly, my engine isnt that bad in all honesty.

frank and i have came up with a good plan for my usage.

because i told frank i use a severly oversize oil filter, almost 3 times the size of the normal one (when i compares square inches) it also has a heck of alot of internal area for holding more physical sludge and or solids. he said i should drive 1000 miles on the auto rx. then 3000 on normal oil, and then take pictures of the internals of the engine again. this will be my maintence plan, and i will follow it to the letter, and not alter the ways i normaly drive. i am not going to baby the car, or beat it to death, just drive how i usualy do. i am running havoline dino oil, which is the same as chevron supreme. a purolator pure1 oversize oil filter is also used, as this is the filter i have awalys used. it gives better oil pressure than the stock unit, and has the same bypass settings and adbv.

if you guys have any suggestions or questions, please post em up.

i forgot to mention, my car uses not a drop of oil between the 3k mile changes. i actualy filed a mark on the dipstick where it sits at full, and the oil level does not drop_any_ammount_at_all during the 3K miles per change.

[ May 28, 2003, 06:05 PM: Message edited by: cryptokid ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
the car is a 1996 kia sephia with a 1996 mazda miata bp-5 engine. its got 60K miles...

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That's an interesting swap. How easy was it to fit the Mazda engine in the Kia?
 
the engine was bolt in.

kia shares many mazda parts, inclusing suspension, transmission, axles fuel tank, fuel injection. its basically a rebadged mazda, only at a rediclously low resale price. makes a great econo box work vehicle.
 
FRANK: I use the term "oil additive" because it is added to the oil. If I added it to the fuel I'd call it a "fuel additive". If I put it in my scotch I'd call it a "scotch additive".
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ok just an update: i pulled the used oil filter. a purolator pl14459. im having a hard time getting good pictures of the oil pleats for reference. interestingly enough, all i needed to cut open the filter was a standard can opener! gotta love purolator for that one:) ill update later if i can manage to get some decent pictures of the oil filter. i really want to get good pictures of it so that i can rely on them to tell me the before-and-after, instead of my memory which may be flawed. pictures dont lie.
the purolator PL14459 is an oversize unit for my kia. this filter is supposed to be for such cars as honda accord, civic, cr-v, mazda rx-7's
and is almost 3 times as big (the internal media sq-in area) as a standard filter for my car. this internal part of the filter uses up almost the entire area of the metal can. unlike other filters which might have a big can but have a small filter inside. i really like the PL14459. silocone adbv, silocone gasket, metal rolled crimp on the can, and lots and lots of media surface area. you can see they pack em tight in there.

i got the auto-rx in today. inital view of it is that its some funky smelling and looking stuff. i poured some into a glass for you guys to see. its really dark and smells like rancid berries or somthing. but i dont think it matters what this stuff smells or looks like, its supposed to clean engines,not sit on my computer table looking pretty for the camera. i tried poking around in it looking for the "wax crystals" that other people have found, but i didnt find any. perhaps they are heaver than the carrier fluid and are still at the bottom of the auto-rx bottle?

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[ May 31, 2003, 05:22 AM: Message edited by: cryptokid ]
 
ok, i apologise about the poor quality oil filter pictures. my digicam is horrible for taking close-ups of things. i brought 6 lights into the room to help illumininate things which helped alot but its still not that great of pictures.

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i didnt even bother trying to get pictures of the area between the pleats, as it was hard enough getting a half-decent picture of just the filter.
 
Auto-Rx is made up of natural occuring esters.Means they come from natural sources and there is no perfume or dye added. So does it smell funky guess thats in the nose of the beholder, do know if you smell it, get it on your skin or taste it by accident your going to be fine. (wouldn't be nice if every product we use could say the same )Any time you open anything and leave top off your risking contaminating the substance.Wax Crystals are part of the formulation they are minute and can't stop up an
oil screen or a piston port or anything else, they melt immeadiately upon contact with oil.Excess wax crystals (those not needed in cleansing process will be trapped in oil filter) and you can take one one and roll it between you thumb and forfinger and it melts.Auto-Rx is formulated to use as much of it's chemistry in your oil as needed to clean your oil lubricated rotating parts and whats not used will go to filter.Auto-Rx will always adjust to your oil and it's condition in a cleansing mode or a maintenance mode.We have many photos of filters before and after.Let me clear up one misconception, the average engine is contaminated by third party abrasives,dirt and filters will be dirty however not as dramatic as if engine was heavily carbonized or sludged up.The proof of the pudding is your oil analysis numbers before and after,have you done oil analysis on your oil analysis prior to using Auto-Rx ? If not and your up for this, contact Dyson Oil Analysis and see if they could respond quickly, in fact Auto-Rx will split the cost with you and agree that Dyson Oil Analysis can post results. When you use Auto-Rx please shake bottle up prior to pouring in your oil reserve.

[ May 31, 2003, 06:54 AM: Message edited by: Frank ]
 
bob, you contradict frank. he said i will be impressed.

i emailed him the pictures of my engine and we discussed my application. he said i would be impressed and auto-rx should remove the contaminants. anything left over would wipe off easily with a rag.

edit: but you gave me a good idea. im going to try neutra in my old 70's briggs 3 horse tiller next. do a before and after on the inside of the engine, and espically the bearing surfaces. its quite dirty inside the engine, just from looking through the oil fill hole.

[ June 01, 2003, 01:19 PM: Message edited by: cryptokid ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
bob, you contradict frank. he said i will be impressed.

i emailed him the pictures of my engine and we discussed my application. he said i would be impressed and auto-rx should remove the contaminants. anything left over would wipe off easily with a rag.

edit: but you gave me a good idea. im going to try neutra in my old 70's briggs 3 horse tiller next. do a before and after on the inside of the engine, and espically the bearing surfaces. its quite dirty inside the engine, just from looking through the oil fill hole.


I talked with Frank and he said I was incorrect so, I removed my comments so not to confuse anyone with this issue. As pointed out, that was just an opinion of mine which I see one way, and since this seems not to do anything more than confuse the issue, just file it away in the back of your mind and move forward with his comments.
Thanks
 
Thanks Cryptokid for the pictures. Nice to see that people take good care of their power plants. My goal is always to have the motor and rest of the drive train outlast the chasis. Not only outlast it but perform at a high level over the useful life of the car.

I too run dino oil in my three vehicles, with faithful 3000 mile changouts. On my first application of Rx, I added it to a fresh oil change and filter. I thought that my motor was clean(1990 4.3 liter bow tie), but in the first 100 miles, the fresh oil fill looked very similar, to what I had seen after an untreated 3000 mile run.

You will get good results with auto-rx in all areas that you get good oil flow. You may or may not get great cleaning on areas of the valve cover,depending on how much splashing action up to cover you get. The dark areas over the exhaust valves may have been produced from gases. Auto-Rx does not volitilize at operating temperature, so its going to depend on the splashing action and coverage.

The carmelized oil deposits down over the heads should clean up nicely. Your motor looks pretty clean for 60,000. Good job.
 
Crypto Kid, sent you e-mail through board yesterday awaiting to hear from you? Your engine is overhead cam and will sling oil with good pressure against engine valve covers and all other metal castings of this engine and with Auto-Rx in your oil, it will clean your valve cover, etc. Auto-Rx will clean every oil lubricated rotating engine part of your engine and also increase your MTBF (mean time between failure) of your engine parts. Oil analysis will give you proof positive of Auto-Rx results so will performance of your engine after treatment. Your posts and photos are mostly about valve covers and varnish. Your questions about Auto-Rx should come to me not anyone else. You did not hesitate to e-mail me asking if you would get your money back (Dyson Oil Analysis far better equipped to test anyones chemistry told me how much it would cost and informed me if Auto-Rx did or did not perform as represented he was going to publish results on oil message boards, we agreed and Terry's reports and posts are much in evidence). When you started "your" report on Auto-Rx what was your agenda? The following is excerpts from a "Merecedes" customer and not subject to misinterpretation of Auto-Rx chemistry in cleaning engines.
quote:

I had occasion to remove the valve cover. The engine has about 400-500 miles since I added auto-rx and it looks fabulous; just like brand new. My tech (at Exclusive Motors) was impressed with that also.

Auto-Rx was formulated to restore compression and increase efficiency of combustion in engines. Third party test data available on www.auto-rx.com validates every post on Proof of Value link on site.

We have plenty of photos to publish showing clean valve covers, clean oil pans, etc.; our business is to clean engines!

[ June 02, 2003, 02:19 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
 
cryptokid did you happen to see my post concerning my results with Auto-Rx with only 850 miles into the treatment?
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000551
I don't know Frank. I have only exchanged an Email once with him concerning how to proceed with the treatment due to the very high miles on my car. As I stated in my post I haven't seen any improvement in the cleaning of what rockers I can see. But again I'm only 850 miles into a 4500 mile
treatment cycle. Auto-RX is working in my car.
 
ALS, Thanks for the positive post on Auto-Rx, your engine derives it's oil pressure from a single cam using push rod technology to build oil pressure (not like an overhead cam engine). You will get clean rocker arms and valve covers, etc., it will just take longer for reasons above. You bought Auto-Rx for the correct reason (improve performance) and you got great results just as guaranteed.
 
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