My rod bearings after a HPDE
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Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I think the power steering cooler on my van is larger than that.
my car has a factory power steering cooler in front of the radiator and it really IS bigger than that!!!
However, it should be noted that stacked plate coolers can be very compact and still do an excellent job.
I think the power steering cooler on my van is larger than that.
my car has a factory power steering cooler in front of the radiator and it really IS bigger than that!!!
However, it should be noted that stacked plate coolers can be very compact and still do an excellent job.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
However, it should be noted that stacked plate coolers can be very compact and still do an excellent job.
Do you think even to the extent of a 2:1 ratio (stacked plate being half the size of the tube and fin deals)??
I want to get a stacked plate B&M, or Derale for my new Turn One power steering pump (BEFORE I install it!), and I am wondering which size to get.
However, it should be noted that stacked plate coolers can be very compact and still do an excellent job.
Do you think even to the extent of a 2:1 ratio (stacked plate being half the size of the tube and fin deals)??
I want to get a stacked plate B&M, or Derale for my new Turn One power steering pump (BEFORE I install it!), and I am wondering which size to get.
IME it is even greater than 2-1. I would talk to the techs at Summit and get their input.
PS pumps are among the highest failure points in my car on a road course. I changed my psf early to Amsoil Universal trans fluid and mine has never made a peep!
PS pumps are among the highest failure points in my car on a road course. I changed my psf early to Amsoil Universal trans fluid and mine has never made a peep!
I agree with SteveSRT8; a stacked-plate heat exchanger can be less than half the size of a traditional tube and fin unit for the same heat rejection. Another possible source for info on heat exchangers would be Earl's.
My Camaro came from the factory with a power steering cooler, but when I did my first autocross with it, the steering lost assist in the slalom. I dumped the factory fill fluid, and put in Royal Purple Max E-Z, and that solved the problem. Since then, I have changed the fluid every spring with RP before driving season begins, and I have not had any problems with power steering.
My Camaro came from the factory with a power steering cooler, but when I did my first autocross with it, the steering lost assist in the slalom. I dumped the factory fill fluid, and put in Royal Purple Max E-Z, and that solved the problem. Since then, I have changed the fluid every spring with RP before driving season begins, and I have not had any problems with power steering.
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Originally Posted By: ChattZX
I shouldn't have commented in this thread, I spun a bearing in my Nissan 300ZX
Hey Chatt,what happened to your car?
I shouldn't have commented in this thread, I spun a bearing in my Nissan 300ZX
Hey Chatt,what happened to your car?
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
I shouldn't have commented in this thread, I spun a bearing in my Nissan 300ZX
Hey Chatt,what happened to your car?
Spun cylinder #1 bearing
had 154,000 when it went. Now I'm going to totally rebuild it with forged pistons and some other goodies.
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
I shouldn't have commented in this thread, I spun a bearing in my Nissan 300ZX
Hey Chatt,what happened to your car?
Spun cylinder #1 bearing
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Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
I shouldn't have commented in this thread, I spun a bearing in my Nissan 300ZX
Hey Chatt,what happened to your car?
Spun cylinder #1 bearing
had 154,000 when it went. Now I'm going to totally rebuild it with forged pistons and some other goodies.
That`s what my friend with a TT did,built a motor ground up with forged pistons,larger turbos,etc. What were you doing when you spun the bearing? What oil/oil filter combo?
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
I shouldn't have commented in this thread, I spun a bearing in my Nissan 300ZX
Hey Chatt,what happened to your car?
Spun cylinder #1 bearing
That`s what my friend with a TT did,built a motor ground up with forged pistons,larger turbos,etc. What were you doing when you spun the bearing? What oil/oil filter combo?
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Chattzx, what was your oil pressure like? When I got my Z32TT I know pressure was lower than stock. Come to find out the majority of VG30DETT's had dented oil pans. Even the smallest ding near the pickup will starve the engine, since the clearance is almost less than a .25inch. I replaced the pan on mine, and pressure went back up.
Im going up to BIR this weekend for MAP's proving grounds, along with Powercruise @ BIR next month, and will be running either Rotella T6 or something heavier.
I did make a 3000 mile trip from MN to SC and back with a dented oil pan, however I had some Lubromoly MOS2 in there, which could have helped, since I held steady oil pressure @ ~30PSI at any rpm, while doing spirited runs through the mountains. OEM pressure is 54-62psi @ 3k rpms.
I was thinking about using a WIX racing filter for my next races. 28gpm flow.
Im going up to BIR this weekend for MAP's proving grounds, along with Powercruise @ BIR next month, and will be running either Rotella T6 or something heavier.
I did make a 3000 mile trip from MN to SC and back with a dented oil pan, however I had some Lubromoly MOS2 in there, which could have helped, since I held steady oil pressure @ ~30PSI at any rpm, while doing spirited runs through the mountains. OEM pressure is 54-62psi @ 3k rpms.
I was thinking about using a WIX racing filter for my next races. 28gpm flow.
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No, I'm still NA. I toyed with the idea of TT this car since I have a full Powertrix Race coilover system on it, but I realized it would be cheaper to just buy a TT than swap it to this car. Have you ever had any engine issues?
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Originally Posted By: ChattZX
My oil pressure has always been perfect in the car and was still normal after the spun bearing.
Well that's not true.
In your thread on the subject you mentioned your OP was in the 80 psi range at maximum rev's which sounds like at the by-pass point which is certainly not perfect and indicative of running a way too heavy oil.
I'm suspect the optimum OP is in the 65 psi area and a light 30 wt would still likely generate higher OP than that at normal operating temp's.
The M1 0W-40 would be heavier than necessary for the street but would have the extra viscosity reserves to deal with the higher oil temp's during track days.
THe key to choosing the right oil viscosity is becoming very familiar with your OP readings. A good practice is to use you OP gauge as a variable red line, shifting before the rev's hit the oil by-pass point.
Ultimately you want to run an oil that's light enough to allow you to still hit red-line on the street when the oil is up to temperature without going into by-pass. That's maximum OP just below 80 psi. On the track, you don't want the OP to drop below the predetermined minimum optimum figure; say 65 psi.
And during those suspect high g corners that may lead to oil starvation, glance at the OP gauge looking for any sign of fluctuation at a steady rpm. If there is some OP drop off, add oil to the sump in 100 ml increments and return to the track to retest. As others have mentioned you can over fill the sump by at least a half quart without seriously increasing the aeration of the oil. Hopefully this solves the problem without having to go to the expense of modifying the sump.
The point is one should read their OP gauge as much as they do their tach if you want to take an active role in the health of any performance engine.
My oil pressure has always been perfect in the car and was still normal after the spun bearing.
Well that's not true.
In your thread on the subject you mentioned your OP was in the 80 psi range at maximum rev's which sounds like at the by-pass point which is certainly not perfect and indicative of running a way too heavy oil.
I'm suspect the optimum OP is in the 65 psi area and a light 30 wt would still likely generate higher OP than that at normal operating temp's.
The M1 0W-40 would be heavier than necessary for the street but would have the extra viscosity reserves to deal with the higher oil temp's during track days.
THe key to choosing the right oil viscosity is becoming very familiar with your OP readings. A good practice is to use you OP gauge as a variable red line, shifting before the rev's hit the oil by-pass point.
Ultimately you want to run an oil that's light enough to allow you to still hit red-line on the street when the oil is up to temperature without going into by-pass. That's maximum OP just below 80 psi. On the track, you don't want the OP to drop below the predetermined minimum optimum figure; say 65 psi.
And during those suspect high g corners that may lead to oil starvation, glance at the OP gauge looking for any sign of fluctuation at a steady rpm. If there is some OP drop off, add oil to the sump in 100 ml increments and return to the track to retest. As others have mentioned you can over fill the sump by at least a half quart without seriously increasing the aeration of the oil. Hopefully this solves the problem without having to go to the expense of modifying the sump.
The point is one should read their OP gauge as much as they do their tach if you want to take an active role in the health of any performance engine.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
My oil pressure has always been perfect in the car and was still normal after the spun bearing.
Well that's not true.
In your thread on the subject you mentioned your OP was in the 80 psi range at maximum rev's which sounds like at the by-pass point which is certainly not perfect and indicative of running a way too heavy oil.
I'm suspect the optimum OP is in the 65 psi area and a light 30 wt would still likely generate higher OP than that at normal operating temp's.
The M1 0W-40 would be heavier than necessary for the street but would have the extra viscosity reserves to deal with the higher oil temp's during track days.
THe key to choosing the right oil viscosity is becoming very familiar with your OP readings. A good practice is to use you OP gauge as a variable red line, shifting before the rev's hit the oil by-pass point.
Ultimately you want to run an oil that's light enough to allow you to still hit red-line on the street when the oil is up to temperature without going into by-pass. That's maximum OP just below 80 psi. On the track, you don't want the OP to drop below the predetermined minimum optimum figure; say 65 psi.
And during those suspect high g corners that may lead to oil starvation, glance at the OP gauge looking for any sign of fluctuation at a steady rpm. If there is some OP drop off, add oil to the sump in 100 ml increments and return to the track to retest. As others have mentioned you can over fill the sump by at least a half quart without seriously increasing the aeration of the oil. Hopefully this solves the problem without having to go to the expense of modifying the sump.
The point is one should read their OP gauge as much as they do their tach if you want to take an active role in the health of any performance engine.
Sorry I was meaning to say it was never abnormally low and yes I agree it was probably in bypass mode at full rpm more than I realized. Also I may try M1 0W-40 like you suggested, I was also going to ask if you have heard much of Brad Penn products? Would M1 be a better choice than even something like Rotella T6?
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
My oil pressure has always been perfect in the car and was still normal after the spun bearing.
Well that's not true.
In your thread on the subject you mentioned your OP was in the 80 psi range at maximum rev's which sounds like at the by-pass point which is certainly not perfect and indicative of running a way too heavy oil.
I'm suspect the optimum OP is in the 65 psi area and a light 30 wt would still likely generate higher OP than that at normal operating temp's.
The M1 0W-40 would be heavier than necessary for the street but would have the extra viscosity reserves to deal with the higher oil temp's during track days.
THe key to choosing the right oil viscosity is becoming very familiar with your OP readings. A good practice is to use you OP gauge as a variable red line, shifting before the rev's hit the oil by-pass point.
Ultimately you want to run an oil that's light enough to allow you to still hit red-line on the street when the oil is up to temperature without going into by-pass. That's maximum OP just below 80 psi. On the track, you don't want the OP to drop below the predetermined minimum optimum figure; say 65 psi.
And during those suspect high g corners that may lead to oil starvation, glance at the OP gauge looking for any sign of fluctuation at a steady rpm. If there is some OP drop off, add oil to the sump in 100 ml increments and return to the track to retest. As others have mentioned you can over fill the sump by at least a half quart without seriously increasing the aeration of the oil. Hopefully this solves the problem without having to go to the expense of modifying the sump.
The point is one should read their OP gauge as much as they do their tach if you want to take an active role in the health of any performance engine.
Sorry I was meaning to say it was never abnormally low and yes I agree it was probably in bypass mode at full rpm more than I realized. Also I may try M1 0W-40 like you suggested, I was also going to ask if you have heard much of Brad Penn products? Would M1 be a better choice than even something like Rotella T6?
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I'm not a fan of Brad Penn oils. Their main claim to fame is high ZDDP levels which is fine except all their oils are low VI products and over priced for what they are.
Rotella T6 5W-40 is heavier than M1 0W-40 especially on start-up which is what you don't want. As I mentioned, for street use M1 0W-40 will be heavier than necessary anyway so you don't want anything heavier. If you're not going to take the car to the track I'd recommend an even lighter oil such as Red Line 0W-30. It's a mid-grade 30wt, has POE/PAO base oil chemistry, high ZDDP and moly levels and is shear resistant. Plus you can thicken it up at the track if necessary with qt of RL 5W-50 which will give you a 0W-40.
Anyway, whatever oil you choose, take the time to become totally familiar with the oil pressure characteristics of your engine particularly the oil pump by-pass level. Once you do, the correct oil viscosity to use should become self-evident.
Rotella T6 5W-40 is heavier than M1 0W-40 especially on start-up which is what you don't want. As I mentioned, for street use M1 0W-40 will be heavier than necessary anyway so you don't want anything heavier. If you're not going to take the car to the track I'd recommend an even lighter oil such as Red Line 0W-30. It's a mid-grade 30wt, has POE/PAO base oil chemistry, high ZDDP and moly levels and is shear resistant. Plus you can thicken it up at the track if necessary with qt of RL 5W-50 which will give you a 0W-40.
Anyway, whatever oil you choose, take the time to become totally familiar with the oil pressure characteristics of your engine particularly the oil pump by-pass level. Once you do, the correct oil viscosity to use should become self-evident.
Caterham the VG30DE(TT) is spec'ed for 20w50. Factory Oil pressure should be ~60psi @ 3000rpms. 5w30, 5w40 or 20w50 could all be higher than 80psi at redline. The oil pumps bypass setting is thought to be around 110psi, but the oil pump's bypass may never open in any condition since the the oil cooler is activated at 60psi, which circulates cooler oil back into the sump.
The OP's issue isn't the oil, its because his pickup was exposed to air, which sounds like it is a VERY common problem with tracked Z's. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/1878857/2nd.html
The only option for these cars is an Accusump setup like SPL's Z, or a drysump.
The OP's issue isn't the oil, its because his pickup was exposed to air, which sounds like it is a VERY common problem with tracked Z's. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/1878857/2nd.html
The only option for these cars is an Accusump setup like SPL's Z, or a drysump.
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