Third treatment of Auto-RX looks like it's still doing a lot of cleaning
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Schaeffer #131 Neutra is an excellent fuel system, injector, and combustion chamber cleaner. One oz./gallon of fuel, either gasoline or diesel engines, and the price is right.
Ken
Ken
I'll second the Neutra,stopped oil consumption in a 83 S-10 and reduced it in a 89 toy pickup.Also put it in the gas of our Cub Cadet before winter as a stabilizer and it fired up great this spring.
ok, now I'm at 1100 miles on the treatment. The 0w40 Mobil1 has been in there for 2800 miles. It should be ok to just spin on a new filter and push this oil another 1000 if not more right?
--Matt
Since I'm running the RX so long, would it be a good idea to get a better filter for this tail end? I have an ACDelco PF53 on there now. I have access to Bosch, M1, ACDelco, Purolator, K&N, and Fram. Would any of these filters be better than the other in this scenereo?
--Matt
Since I'm running the RX so long, would it be a good idea to get a better filter for this tail end? I have an ACDelco PF53 on there now. I have access to Bosch, M1, ACDelco, Purolator, K&N, and Fram. Would any of these filters be better than the other in this scenereo?
oh, I'm also probably gonna switch to a diffent oil from here on out(don't see the need for synth on this car anymore). I was thinking either Castrol GTX 10w30 High Mileage or regular GTX 10w40. I'll be adding the maint doses of RX in there also.
--Matt
--Matt
Patman
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You will probably be safer if you pick a filter with a higher capacity for dirt, so something like an Amsoil, K&N, Wix or NAPA Gold would be the safest bet.
As far as your oil question goes, I'd probably go for the GTX HM 10w30 over their 10w40, as I know their 10w40 thins out to a high 30wt anyways, while the GTX HM starts out as a high 30wt and will most likely be more shear stable. Plus you get the bonus of the little bit of esters too.
[ April 24, 2003, 12:42 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
As far as your oil question goes, I'd probably go for the GTX HM 10w30 over their 10w40, as I know their 10w40 thins out to a high 30wt anyways, while the GTX HM starts out as a high 30wt and will most likely be more shear stable. Plus you get the bonus of the little bit of esters too.
[ April 24, 2003, 12:42 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]
hmm, I've come to a slight issue. my car is lowered 1.8" now and I can't get it up on my ramps anymore. Any suggestions? Do you think there might be shorter ramps? or should I make some nice wooden ones? In any case, I've decided to either stick with the 0w40 or go to Delvac1 5w40. They are both about the same price.
--Matt
--Matt
put a 2x4 piece of wood just before the ramp. then drive up it. or get a ramp with a lower angle. i seen ramps that are very low so that the car can get up it. just look around u will find some. dont make wooden ones, hehe unless u know alot abojt wood. why not a jack and a jackstand?
Patman
Staff member
Have you tried Rhino Ramps? Pepboys sells them and lots of my friends with lowered f-bodies use them.
Have you tried Rhino Ramps? Pepboys sells them and lots of my friends with lowered f-bodies use them.
Yes. Rhino Ramps. We had to jack up my son's 94 Camaro with his factory jack to get the floor jack under it !!!
Rhino ramps work, and weren't too expensive at WalMart. I learned about them here too I think.
I also have a set of old heavier-duty steel ramps--no go. Higher, but too steep.
The Rhino ramps work well with front-wheel drive too. My steel ramps are slicker, even if they clear the bumper or air dam it's hard to use the necessary finesse.
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