Is Auto RX equally effective with Group III "Synthetics"??

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Thanks i was pondering this for a while since after all Group III's are still dino and auto rx is cited most effective with just that
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Outrun,

The group III oils generally contain some ester to balance out the seal swell characteristics and provide better solvency of the additive chemistry. So I'd run a regular petroleum oil instead like Delo 400, 15w-40.

Generally the group III basestock is substituted for the PAO portion (about 80%) of the PAO/Ester blended basestock ....

I ran some autorx with the Group III, petro canada synthetic and it didn't seem to be that effective ....

TS
 
Auto-Rx needs more time when cleaning engine with synthetic oil. This is because of the complex additive packages used in synthetic oil. What happens is these additive packages and Auto-Rx fight for space on the metal and the extra 250 miles (500 for "Dino" and 750 for "Synthetic")
allows Auto-Rx to do it's job.

"Dino" Oil is always the oil of choice if your using Auto-Rx to stop seal leaks as the "petro chemistry" of "Dino Oil" goes to work the first mile after an Auto-Rx cleansing to refurbish the seal (if not ripped or torn )

It is much more economical to use 'Dino" Oil in cleansing mode with Auto-Rx then after go back to Synthetic.Theere is no problem.
 
Understanding exactly what Auto-Rx does for your engine, gets at times confusing. Every engine has
third party abrasives lodged in hard to get to oil passages, some older cars, have dirt and carbon all in the engine, and some are unlucky enough to have "Sludge" even if they are fairly new cars. Auto-Rx is a non hazardous-safe chemistry that has nothing to do with oil or oil properties.IT IS NOT AN OIL ADDITIVE. Auto-Rx has only one function which is to clean & prep your metal lubricated rotating parts to get maximum lubrication to "ALL the Metal", no matter where it is hidden; abrasives, dirt, carbon or sludge in your engine.

Synthetic Esters are not able to "clean " deep enough to be effective. Auto-Rx is "ALL' natural and actually liquifys every piece of "Crud' it comes in contact with then holds it in suspension and drive it to the filter. If you use "Dino" or "Synthetic" after prepping metal with Auto-Rx your going to get maximum performance from that oil. Solvents, ATF Fluid don't do this they seem inexpensive,in the long run they are going to very costly and they never work and surely are not safe for you, your car or our environment.
 
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