300v 0w20 - additive pack strong enough for 10k?

[mkosem]

I've been running Redline 5w20 in my 2012 fiesta so far, and was considering switching to Motul 300v 0w20 in it instead since it seems like a strong oil. This car accumulates half city miles in northern in Ohio, and is driven daily. Does it have an additive pack that will keep my engine clean for 10k+ mile OCIs, or is it an old school race oil with insufficient detergent package for longer OCIs?

--Matt

 

[toyota62]

I think Redline is better than the Motul.(As per few UOA's)
If you can find Fuchs GT1 0w-20 that's the best out of all.
Never seen a single bad UOA.

 

[toneydoc]

This is just me, but I do not trust any oil past 6000- 7500 miles. Might just be my old opinions still around from the 70s and oils we had back then. Todays oils are better and may do 10k but the oil will not do 10k in my vehicles.

 

[mkosem]

Perhaps I aught just stick with red line then. The factory OCI spec is 10k with motorcraft sun blend, so there shouldn't be any issues running it with most appropriate oils. I haven't done a UOA yet, but will once I complete a 10k interval.

--Matt

 

[mkosem]

Eep, that was supposed to be Redline and syn blend not red line and sun blend. Stupid tablet.

--Matt

 

[dparm]

It has a very high starting TBN. I would definitely run to 5k, pull a sample, and see how much further it can go.

I ran the 5w30 and 5w40 and my UOAs showed 5k was not a problem, and that's in a 40V V8 that gets to the track.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: mkosem
I've been running Redline 5w20 in my 2012 fiesta so far, and was considering switching to Motul 300v 0w20 in it instead since it seems like a strong oil. This car accumulates half city miles in northern in Ohio, and is driven daily. Does it have an additive pack that will keep my engine clean for 10k+ mile OCIs, or is it an old school race oil with insufficient detergent package for longer OCIs?

--Matt


Don't know a thing about Motul, but M1 0-20 is excellant in my Duratechs for 10K.

 

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: mkosem
Eep, that was supposed to be Redline and syn blend not red line and sun blend. Stupid tablet.

--Matt


Red Line is actually two words. Most people get it wrong.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: dparm
It has a very high starting TBN. I would definitely run to 5k, pull a sample, and see how much further it can go.

I ran the 5w30 and 5w40 and my UOAs showed 5k was not a problem, and that's in a 40V V8 that gets to the track.


^^^THIS!!

Also, If you are going to stick with Red Line, their 0W-20 is actually a better product than their 5W-20, especially for your application.

 

[dave1251]

All I have to say if formula shell at 2.29 a quart was good for 7.1K. 300V 0W-20 better be good for 10K in a daily driver.

 

[mkosem]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: dparm
It has a very high starting TBN. I would definitely run to 5k, pull a sample, and see how much further it can go.

I ran the 5w30 and 5w40 and my UOAs showed 5k was not a problem, and that's in a 40V V8 that gets to the track.


^^^THIS!!

Also, If you are going to stick with Red Line, their 0W-20 is actually a better product than their 5W-20, especially for your application.

I think I probably will go with the Red Line 0w-20 next . I've had great luck with their various products over the years.

--Matt

 

[chevrofreak]

I am running Red Line 0w-20 in my 06 Mariner Hybrid and it has quieted my engine (known to be somewhat noisy) significantly.

 

[wiswind]

I would recommend the Red Line 0W-20 over their 5W-20.
I used to use their 5W-20 and now use their 0W-20.
As for how long to go......depends upon how long it takes you to put those 10K miles on.....and the conditions.
I would not go longer than the owner's manual states to go on oil, particularly under waranty.

 

[mkosem]

Thanks all. I'll switch to 0w-20 a the next change, and won't extend past the suggested 10k until I have at lest a couple UOAs with it. I'll probably run this 5w-20 for 8k total miles, then the next change to 10k if all goes well. It takes me about 7months to accumulate 10k miles, which shouldn't be too long.

--Matt

 

[wlyszkow]

VOA overthere by Blackstone:
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6394/motul0w20300vvoa.jpg
I used it 2kkm in Toyota and changed due to more and more noisy engine idle. Fine but only at > 3k rpm - maybe that is why called High RPM ;-)
I never used Redline in my cars but had good OCI with Fuchs 0W-30 Supersyn which is not so thick as on paper:
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/1990/fuchssupersyn0w30.jpg
and of course my favourite RD20 - Amsoil Dominator Racing 5W-20 - great oil but maybe not for very longlife use with ~2000 Ca (although you can get with RD30 TBN=6,4 and TAN=4,2 after 2kkm 100% city few miles trips) with great fuel economy + unique SAPS <1% for racing oil.

 

[r34dy2fly]

The Motul 300V is a very stout oil but its not a high mileage application oil. When they developed the oil they had one thing in mind, hard racing. When I still had the Porsche, if I was ever going to hit the track, I dumped whatever was in the car and filled it up with Motul. A very good oil that will take a beating. For everyday use though, it just doesn't seem be worth the money as its about double the price and I doubt you'd be cruising hitting redline at every turn.

 

[CATERHAM]

RL 5W-20 (HTHSV 3.3cP, VI 145) is better thought of as a very heavy 30wt oil not really suitable for a 20wt application.
Even their 0W-20 (HTHSV 3.0cP, VI 166) is still effectively a light 30wt oil.

Motul 300V 0W-20 (HTHSV 2.68cP, VI 177) is a true fairly light 20wt that should work well in your Fiesta if you don't mind the high cost. Not sure how long an OCI you can go but I would think 10,000 miles should be doable. Having said that, I do think this oil is overkill for street use.
I'd actually recommend a premium true GF-5 oil like the Toyota 0W-20 (HTHSV 2.6cP, 216 VI). It's cheaper, readily available, of the right viscosity and has a robust AW package.

 

[mkosem]

I have a case of Red Line 0w-20 sitting in the garage already It's cheaper than 300v and easier to buy around here. This car sees wot and the redline pretty often, and I'm a firm believer in exceeding lube requirements as far as possible (within reason) wherever possible. Clean, well lubricated, engines run happily for many miles with minimal problems.

--Matt

 

[ottotheclown]

It is how you go the 10k. If it is 90% hway in farm

areas I bet some dino could handle it. If short trips, stop and go, a 10 k is pushing it IMHO. 10k is just a small portion of the oci how is the most important issue.

 

[mkosem]

Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
It is how you go the 10k. If it is 90% hway in farm

areas I bet some dino could handle it. If short trips, stop and go, a 10 k is pushing it IMHO. 10k is just a small portion of the oci how is the most important issue.


I drive 50:50 city/highway normally. Since power is pretty anemic, it gets wound out quite a bit. I won't be running Dino. I even run synthetics in my lawn equipment. It will get a steady diet of top shelf synthetics and oil filters (K&N or M1 most likely) while it lives in my garage.

--Matt