When Did You Notice a Difference?

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For those who have used Auto-Rx, how many miles did you travel before you noticed a "seat of the pants" difference? On Saturday, I put a bottle of Auto-Rx in my 1991 Camry with ~189,000 miles on it along with a new Super-Tech filter (first non OEM filter this car has ever seen by the way). Two hundred miles thus far on treatment number one.
 
In my case I think it was probably about a hundred miles into the treatment when I first started noticing that the engine was smoother, more torquey and that the valvetrain noises were going away.
 
I also added Auto-Rx for the first time to my Toyota on Saturday (1988 Toyota Supra with 88,000 miles).

I also added Techron to the gas tank yesterday at +150 miles. I now have 300 miles on the Auto-Rx and 150 miles on the Techron. I agree with "dragboat" that doing both at the same time makes a lot of sense.

The improvements are already obvious but most likely due to the Techron which works very quickly versus the slow-and-steady action of the Auto-Rx.

I was burning a quart every 700 miles with a couple of small leaks and that's why I searched for a Forum like this. I have read a lot in the last few weeks and have no doubt that this combination will drastically improve my problems.

Previous oil changes were at the Toyota dealer (Valvoline 10w30 and Toyota filter). I am now doing the "two-bottle" Auto-Rx process using Pennzoil High-Mileage 10w30 and PureOne filters.

Also, like "dragboat"s suggestion, I plan to replace the filter this weekend at 600 miles and run at least one more week with the first bottle of Auto-Rx still in the oil.

Then what ?
Change the oil and filter ?
Or, leave the first bottle in the oil for a few more weeks for maximum cleaning benefit ?
Does the first bottle deplete it's capabilities in a week ?
Can the seals get too "pliable" with a long exposure to Auto-Rx (I don't think so since "maintenance doses" are okay) ?
Is it real important to get the Auto-Rx out and the dino oil in "soon" to get the seals re-seated and firm ?

I think that I will be sticking with Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30 and PureOne filters (10w40 and 15w40 will be future options if the small leaks or oil burning continue after a second future Auto-Rx process).

Incidently, my 1986 Supra with 119,000 miles (also oil changes at dealer) has neither leaks nor loss of performance (never had plugs, tune-up, or fuel injector additives). It will get the Auto-Rx process after the 1988 recovers from it's current ailments.
 
I'm halfway through a 2nd clean on Mazda Turbo which is a clean engine anyway. But the lifters are getting noisy so I think the PureONE is full of crap again. Buggered if I know where it's coming from. I expected nothing from this 2nd clean but it's doing something. Will be interesting to cut open this filter and see whats there.
 
Dragboat,

Current oil used is 10W30 from the bulk tank at my independent mechanic’s garage. Gary buys his oil from Texaco so I guess this would be Havoline. Going forward, I will be trying Mobil 10W30 Drive Clean (just did an oil change with it Saturday on my '91 Toyota 4x2). I picked up four cases recently from a discount store that is going out of business. Any suggestions as to other oils to consider or should I stick with that bulk Texaco?

At your suggestion, with which GACrabill concurred, I will put some gas additive in the tank. Late last winter, I ran a bottle of Techron through one tank of fuel. However, the engine still pings a lot in first and second gear when pulling some of the steep hills leading to my neighborhood (almost everywhere is up in a White Mountain region river town). Probably time to order up some Neutra 131 and give that a try in the fuel.

[ September 11, 2002, 07:41 AM: Message edited by: 2533a ]
 
It gets pretty cold up there in the winter. Any thoughts to using a 0W synthetic for quicker starts etc. or are your vehicles garaged?
 
Spector,

The vehicles aren't garaged, but they always start thanks to some stout batteries (Interstate Megatrons). I haven't considered using a 0W synthetic but do use a 5W30 dino in winter months. Perhaps the 0W synthetic or a blend would help my old Toyotas on those cold mornings.
 
I noticed a difference in 400 mile range. What I did was do a new oil and filter change. I put in TWO bottles of Auto-RX, new Motorcraft FL-1A filter and used Mobil conventional 10W-30 Drive Clean oil. I also added three bottles of Techron, and one big bottle of the Chevron injector and combustion valve cleaner to only 5 gallons of gas in the one tank. So I guess you could say the performance and increased mileage came from cleaning the injectors and valves, or the combination of the fuel and oil cleaner. After one week and 1000 miles I dumped the oil and filter, the oil was super black, and I cut the filter open. No metal in filter but between the filter pleats lots of heavy thick like oil. Do not no what it is but the Drive clean oil and Auto RX seem to do a good job. I did another oil change with the 10w-30 drive clean and only one bottle of Auto Rx. After 500 miles my one valve cover began leaking. I changed it and the valve cover was spotless and cylinder head valve train was spotless. This is on a 1996 Ford F-150 302 V-8 engine with now 229,000 miles on it, had since new and I drive a mininum of 1000 miles a week. Drive the snot out of it. The valve cover gasket was the first gasket I ever had go bad on this truck. And previous oil changes was always once a month using Motorcraft 15-40 oil from 100K on. From new to 100K I used 10-30 Motorcraft oil. I think the auto rx works well and the older your engine is the better results you will see.
 
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