what is auto rx?

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Rick20,
What would the fisheyes in the oil be telling a person? Also,what would the fisheyes in the Auto-RX itself be telling a guy that has used say part of the bottle,and a few months later see this in the product?

Also,I always was in the understanding polyol esters were the hardest of all the esters on automotive type seals with out something in the formulation to help with this. Am I correct in this?What in your opinion is in the RX to counter this?But the upper questions are most important to me

[ September 20, 2002, 02:25 AM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
 
Dragboat,

The word fish eyes is not a typically used term in tribology, and I apologize. It is a common term in my field of expertise which is coatings utilized in printing or graphic arts. What I am refering to is an imperfection in a film or layer applied to a surface. It would have been better to use oil shearing on my post. Fish eyes in my field would be the equivalent of looking at a brand new windshield vs. one that has acid rain marks that are permanent unless the glass is ground and buffed below the surface imperfection.
My fault, poor choice of words in the prior post.

In regards to seals, I do not find polyol esters to be insulting to motor seals in any way. I immersed several polymer, buna, neoprene, and silicone seal type materials in a straight or full strenght Pentaerythritol product overnight.
In all cases no adverse effects. Dimentional stability as well as durometer was unchanged. The control used was mineral spirits wherby overnight massive swelling occured. Most likely irreversable effects, onced dryed out.

For all interested parties N-butyl alcohol has little to no effect on all seal materials that I tested as well.
 
"Also, I always was in the understanding polyol esters were the hardest of all the esters on automotive type seals without something in the formulation to help with this. Am I correct in this?"

Not really. Some of the toughest esters on elastomers were the earlier di-esters (early Mobil 1 and Amsoil). But with the new additive chemistry, this is less of a problem since "mediating" chemicals can reduce seal change by esters. One of the earliest esters used was sebacic acid esters and really softened seals. The newer PAO/ester mix is a good one for seal compatibility.

BTW, pentaerithrytol ester (PE or PBE) is one of the esters used in Redline.
 
Something just came to mind,after RX or 131 for that matter is put in motor oil and ran is this not then a hazardous chemical? Used motor oil is said to cause skin cancer? Just a thought.
 
Spector you are correct. The used motor oil containing any cleaner will still take on the oils hazards, even though some of the acids, nitration, and so forth has been neutralized to some degree, depending on the cleaner used.

For example a one-tenth of one percent concentration of formaldehyde in water is considered to be a carcinogen.
 
You can look at motor oil and cleaners as two applications. They have to be handled twice. Once going in, once coming out. You can at least minimize your exposure to hazardous materials on the way in, by choosing clean chemicals. Not much can be done on the back side, except to Wear impervious gloves.
 
To the first post.

I wonder why anyone would use something in their brand new car that is not API Certified and risk a voiding of the warranty? Also I think the first couple of oil changes would remove any substances (if any) more safely.

That Teflon stuff was a going fad for awhile until? I am not knocking this stuff I just wonder about it? How many years has it been on the market? How many other qualified Companies or Engine Companies endorse it?

I read that it had a Lanolin something in it. I always thought Lanolin was used in lotions?

Now I see it is recommended to use 2 ounces per oil change? Will this in the oil hold up for 7500 miles? Has it been tested in these conditions of regular oil drains? I would like to see those results if there is a link or something.

Amsoil and Quaker State offers a warranty. I am going to email them and ask if this warranty will stand if Auto-RX is used. They are oil makers so would they know if this was good for short or long use or not?
 
Pops
Amsoil and QS wouldn't know black from white let alone anything about Auto-Rx. You worry needlessly. If you knew who was playing with this stuff you would be very surprised. I'm sworn to secrecy but you will find out soon enough.
 
Pops,

Lanolin is an ester, it occurs naturally in the fat of sheep to act as insulating layer.

Auto-RX, from what I can decode, is a mix of various esters, synthetic organic esters, one of which is a lanolin type of ester. Esters have a natural tendancy to clean hydrocarbons from surfaces.

This is one of the reasons for Mobil 1 users reporting such clean engines. Mobil SS has a number of newly developed esters in its formulation.
 
1995 Dakota 4x4 318 V8. I think I have sludge in the oil pan. Engine Flush first? I would like to try that before dropping the pan. Which is best (I know favorite is a better choice of words) for my needs:

Amsoil Flush? Auto-Rx? Neutra 131? Gunk?

Way too much technical information provided on this thread for me to figure it out.
confused.gif
Thanks.

Any and all comments appreciated.
 
There is NO styrofoam in my engine.
Haven't fallen for the marketing ploy of the stryofoam cup trick.

Can get soy(or other vegetable oil/seed based) methyl/ethyl esters here cheaper. One ounce of the biodiesel(B100) added to motor oil can do the same thing. Also, the biodiesel can take the place of solvent in parts washers/tanks etc.
 
The big concern with the 10 or 15 minute flush products is that they're thin solvents that may loosen big hunks of crud but not fully dissolve them. If these loose bits of stuff then move around and plug an oil passage, you get the priviledge of writing checks to fix your engine.

Auto-Rx or Schaeffer's #131 Neutra are both gentle, slow acting (500 miles or more), and thorough engine cleaners. Many folks here have used them and no one has reported any problems.


Ken
 
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