5.4 3V quick flush or not (time limited)?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 2, 2011
Messages
5
Location
Missouri/Virginia
Long time lurker here. Thank you for all the great information I've searched through in the past.

I am looking for suggestions regarding a short-time interval engine flush prior to servicing a vehicle, please bear with me as I have not found information that helps in my decision.
I recently bought a 2005 Super Duty with the 5.4 3V, 150,000 miles, Torqshift, 4X4, SRW, that I will be performing timing component replacement on (tensioner, phaser, chain guides, VCT soleniods/housings, as necessary etc...). It has both the start-up rattle of timing tensioner seal wear/leak, and the ticking of cam phaser slap between idle to 1200 rpm at operating temperature. I was fully aware of the likely servicing at the time of purchase and for the sake of argument I am confident of this diagnosis. The injectors check out and will be cleaned and re-used. I have a self imposed deadline of one week to perform the replacements although this would be more accurately described as: I am only willing to operate the vehicle as-is for a few more days. This is due to my recent discovery via OASIS that this engine has the original early-build 2005 cam phasers with hollow pin construction which hold together the assembly and limit timing retard. Due to a high rate of failure this part was redesigned and, however unlikely, a failure of this component would result in piston-valve interference and is something I am not willing to risk by continuing to operate the vehicle for more than one week.
The previous owner reported that this vehicle was used primarily for commuting with regular maintenance including consistent oil and filter changes at 5,000 mile or less intervals using a mixture of conventional and synthetic 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters. The accompanying service documentation and dealer log support this. It was previously operated in the relatively mild climate of Tennessee. There is a dealer record at 40,000 miles of owner concern with valve train noise, consistent with current symptoms, with no action taken vehicle operation deemed normal. Previous owner estimates noise becoming more pronounced at about 120,000 miles but reports no change in performance. The vehicle currently has excellent power as compared to other 5.4 3V Super Duty's but on three occasions has stalled after coasting to a stop. The throttle body inspected on-vehicle is remarkably clean, which combined with other symptoms indicates wear of the soon to be replaced components although I will examine all vacuum lines closely while servicing. I have drained one quart of motor oil from the pan and by smell, sight, and touch it is in good/normal used condition. The oil fill tube shows minor discoloration but nothing to raise suspicion of neglect. At operating temperature idling oil pressure as measured at the heads is 35+ pounds which, while on the low side, does not cause me to suspect component damage.
I had planned to wait until the next regular service interval to perform the timing component replacement, along with a transmission fluid flush, and this would have allowed time to perform a longer-interval flush. The discovery that the cam phasers that I suspect have been seeing low-normal oil pressure for a minimum of 30,000 miles are of the hollow pin design has changed this. After consideration, I have decided to still keep the engine internals as-is and do an in-frame replacement of the timing and related components with the goal of extending the service life of this otherwise good engine, but I will not wait so any flush will have to be quick and likely more aggressive.
Upon disassembley I will inspect the valve train for excessively worn lash adjusters and followers, oil pump and pickup tube, etc.. FWIW, I can perform any pre/post-service necessitated by a chemical flush should I perform one. Current plan is to use Quaker State ultimate durability 5W-20 to be used with Motorcraft filters on this vehicle at 3-5000 mile intervals dependent on the severity of use.
I would like suggestions regarding whether or not a chemical type flush would be applicable in this situation before servicing, and if so which type. I am concerned with the timing chain tensioner and cam phaser oil supply galleys potentially having deposits in them which could affect the new components. The consideration is the potential benefit of a chemical type flush just prior to disassembly and cleaning, versus the effect of possible rapid dislodging or other damage.
Researching this topic has leg to "Paralysis by Analysis" when weighing the pros and cons of flushing, which combined with my self-imposed deadline for servicing, have led me to ask about this often discussed topic. Please forgive the somewhat redundancy. I was hesitant to post but I did not find engine flush information specific to: variable cam gasoline engines, with relatively high miles, which have a very small window of time to be flushed, then having a partial in-frame tear down, with the timing components to be replaced, but engine internals to be left alone, when actions required by or to limit the scope of a chemical flush could be performed. I have and will continue to search this forum and others but I would like to know the experience and result of others who have had similar situations or expertise in this matter.

Thank you,

MOJoWales
 
Pull your valve cover and have a look. If its gooey you can use Amsoil flush following directions.

If its got more than gooey stuff, your other choice is Kreen again following directions. I think Auto-Rx is good, but others do not and you have got to do a clean and then a rinse cycle. PU oil will clean whatever is there but will not be quick.

I would use PU oil after you are done with service to continue cleaning.

FORGET ANY OTHER ENGINE FLUSH PRODUCTS.
 
Last edited:
I'm not going to recommend using or not using any specific products because I don't know these products that well.

I do think it might be a good plan to just change your oil now with one of the oils considered good at cleaning. You'll certainly be changing it again when you do the repairs and I assume doing so again shortly after. Being as you have no reason to suspect any serious sludging there should be no worry about dislodging any unless you use a quick flush product.
 
Thank you for the replies, sincerely.

Pulling the driver side valve cover to inspect would definitely provide a better indicator of the level of build up. My current opinion is that if I find any excessive build up on the heads when tearing down I could drop the oil pan, complete pan removal in-frame has been reported possible with this engine/vehicle combination but I don't know this first hand, to clean what I can. If the buildup is extreme/obviously indicates imminent failure, or the camshaft or followers are ruined, with 150,000 miles I will pull the engine and rebuild/replace. If I discover this when when temporarily disassembling to inspect, or when replacing parts, the result would be the same. That the indicators so far suggest the build up won't be severe lead me to this *(as I typed this, as if on cue, my dog just ran through the closed screen door to our deck, expect the unexpected)* Quick flush or not, if after opening it up the buildup is extensive but not to the point requiring the removal of the engine I would perform a longer term flush when reassembly is complete. As of now I plan on one tear down when I replace the timing components because nothing really changes based on when I find excessive buildup, if I do find this, because of the short time I'm willing to run the engine before replacing the timing components.
This point may have been lost in my original post, and I apologize for failing to make it better, was the issue of performing an aggressive flush just prior to removing the tensioners and cam phasers. I am unsure if a quick aggressive flush would remove/breakdown any major fouling of the oil galleys that supply the timing components, if there are in fact any such fouling present. That the engine appears to be relatively clean is of relevance, but buildup could be likely to accumulate in the small oil galleys that supply, and might be blocked by, the timing components regardless of the rest of the engine.
If there are deposits in these oil galleys in the block, would a quick flush be likely to breakdown/dislodge them? If so, would it be worth performing considering I will be able to closely monitor oil pressure and listen for indication of problems during the flush, and I don't know if I would be able to remove dislodged sludge from the timing cover area and exposed front oil pan with the limited access when dissembled? My dilemma is whether a chemical flush could do more potential harm than good taking into consideration being done just prior to tear down and the access it provides.
Until disassembly of the timing chain tensioner, having to remove the timing cover for access, the extent of any buildup will be an educated guess, but it would be too late to get chemicals which might clean the oil galleys under pressure where they might do some good after this is known. Lots of "mights" here. I only "know" that the phasers are of a weak design, extremely loud and have likely been under abnormal strain for over 30,000 miles, and there is start up noise I attribute to timing chain adjusters bleeding pressure with likely guide damage.
I've never performed a quick style flush hence my asking for advice here. If not for knowing I will be partially tearing down immediately afterwards I would personally pass on an aggressive chemical flush barring a last ditch attempt to squeeze some function out of an engine/motor for a particular need, which this is not.
Everything hinges on me not being willing to run this motor for more than a few more days, flush or not, and risking the cam phasers giving up the ghost and taking the short block with it. This is possibly paranoid/irrational, but I have really bad luck once I KNOW something is wrong and I don't deal with it, conversely I have really good luck if I deal with something quick. I can also more easily deal with jumping on this now and possibly being inconvenienced, but can not so easily handle ruining a serviceable engine by procrastination when I know better. So, while a long term flush or detergent-oil based low-millage change strategy may be appropriate they would be done after reassembly.

Thank you very much for any and all suggestions,

MOJoWales
 
Originally Posted By: Donald

If its got more than gooey stuff, your other choice is Kreen again following directions.

I would use PU oil after you are done with service to continue cleaning.

FORGET ANY OTHER ENGINE FLUSH PRODUCTS.


If I perform a flush I am leaning towards this because I want to keep the amount of time running after ANY flush to an absolute minimum owing to increasing the odds of timing failure with dislodged deposits now free to wreck havoc downstream on already suspect components. So I am looking at a one time flush or none. At the minimum I would add one straight oil/filter flush after reassembly for good measure.
Does anyone have a reason why this would be a bad idea or have a better suggestion?
I would also be deeply appreciative for advice from anyone who has had a similar situation.

Thank you,

MOJoWales
 
I misused the word "galley" and "galleys" several times in my previous posts. The correct word would be passage. As in: the oil PASSAGE supplying the timing components is where I am concerned with sludge and deposit build up. I am sorry for any confusion.

MOJoWales
 
No misuse of the word. Oil passages, oil galleys, oil gallery are all acceptable, it seems to be a regional thing.
Thinking about your situation and the fact you discovered this 05 engine had cam phaser issues i probably wouldn't bother with anything other than an oil change if that if you are going to tear into it soon anyway.

Fast flushes don't do much of anything and unless you are willing to run Kreen for 1K it wont do much cleaning either in a few minutes. Kreen will remove the varnish in 1K that may be causing the noise and IMO is worth a try.
From the sounds of it this engine isn't a sludge monster. if anything it may have some varnish that is sticking parts.
 
How does varnish in an engine make parts stick and consequently cause noise? I imagine parts that contact other parts do not get any build up on the contact surfaces, on the contrary, they gradually wear down on the contact surfaces.
 
Ever had a stuck/sticky lifter?
Common problem, same thing happens in tensioners and other parts mostly those that are tight fitting sliding parts or use valves of one sort or another.
 
Yes, sticky lifters...

I have heard their noise in poorly maintained engines with hydraulic lifters but I have never had one myself, and I have never inspected one in person.

I had imagined that the incomplete movement of the lifter was caused by oil passages to the hydraulic lifters getting partially clogged, thus depriving the mechanism of sufficient oil pressure or flow.

I still have a hard time seeing varnish building up between two metal surfaces that slide against each other. But I am no expert!
 
The fast flush products do little good. They may do nothing, and they may loosen lumps of glop that later come off and clog the oil pick up screen. I've used the Amsoil fast flush, and it's main (and probably only) virtue is that it thins the oil so more drains out when switching from another oil to Amsoil.

Anyway, that's my 2¢ worth, and you're probably owed change. I'd use the Kreen cleaning routine or the Auto-Rx cleaning routine if you feel the need.
 
Actually Amsoil Flush does a pretty good job at flushing out gelatinous, gooey sludge. It breaks the glop up pretty well, so the "clog the oil pick up screen" is mostly internet lore.

But I readily admit that it does not clean varnish. And always follow the direction. No driving.
 
Quote:
I still have a hard time seeing varnish building up between two metal surfaces that slide against each other

That would be true if oil was always present and they were always in motion but they are not.
True oil may be there but when the hot engine is turned off these heat soaked parts can start turning oil that has gone beyond it useful life or isn't up to the job into varnish inside the part.

Most sticky lifters seem to appear overnight with a slight occasional ticking gradually getting worse. The same happens in other parts and largely goes unnoticed until the part is totally stuck and non functional e.g. cam chain tensioners or phasers.
These parts use extremely fine tolerances and can easily be hindered from doing their job properly.

Some engine parts get very hot and its the engine oils job not only to lubricate but also to cool these internal parts leaving the cooling system to handle the larger job of absorbing the heat generated from larger surfaces like cylinder bores and head castings.

To paint varnish as one company does with a broad brush and call it a "cosmetic stain only" is totally inaccurate.
On engines that used mechanical "lifters" and no ECM controlled hydraulic actuators or hydraulic tensioners there is a case for the "cosmetic stain" argument.
Modern engines are getting so complex that this argument is almost completely void.

Search for an article on varnish on this site that IIRC Shannow posted a while back, it is interesting.
 
Thanks to everyone who has posted.

As it stands now I will perform a Kreen quick flush before tearing this engine down. I will make a decision on what needs to be further cleaned and how to do so once I get the engine torn down. I will be able to flush out the oil pan to some extent once the timing cover is pulled so I think there is minimal change of doing harm by leaving harsh chemicals from the flush in the engine. This and one quick interval oil and filter change after reassembly. Being as I suspect this engine to be in good condition and I will be able to inspect and clean up any major dislodged sludge I find I think it has little risk versus a possible benefit. I have no first hand experience with this type of flush and if in fact many snakes have been killed for nothing it will be a lesson learned. It is the design and history of the 5.4 3V that concerns me enough to perform the flush while I have the opportunity. That being said there are enough Kreen testimonials that I cannot dismiss the possibility it functions to some extent.
Regarding varnishing of parts I would suspect it more around the exhaust valves but the timing components of variable timed engines are temperamental enough with proper servicing. I am curious to examine them and the oil passages I can get to.
If anyone has any further advice I am all ears.

Thank you,

MOJoWales
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top