"Abutment Clip Kit" with some front pad sets

[barlowc]

What exactly is an "abutment clip kit"? Some front pad sets for our VUE come with them and others don't?

I'm considering between Bendix CT-3, Akebono Pro-ACT, and Wager ThermoQuiet pads for our VUE. The Bendix and Wagner pad sets both seem to include that additional hardware, whereas the Akebono set does not.

Why would some need/include that hardware and others not?

While we're on the subject, what do you guys think of Bendix CT-3 vs. Akebono Pro-ACT vs. Wager ThermoQuiet for my application?

Cost isn't a real factor because I can get them all for about the same price. The advantage of Akebono and Wager is that I can get them locally at AAP whereas I'd have to order the Bendix online. It appears as if Akebono is the OEM supplier.

 

[stephen9666]

On my Hyundai, the kit includes two clips for each side that clip into the caliper bracket.

Searching rock auto or another site will show you what is included in the kit.

I decided to go with Bendix CT-3. I was also considering the ProActs, but the CT-3 were like $15 cheaper. I got mine from Amazon.

The CT-3s will be made in the USA or Canada. The ProActs will be made in the USA (Kentucky, in fact). I think I've read about some Thermoquiets now coming from China, but I can't remember.

My CT-3s are GG rated, compared to FF on the stock pads. They stop the vehicle well. I now have about 20k miles on them.

My CT-3s have performed well, but go easy on the break in. I overheated mine during break in and glazed them. It took a few thousand miles to wear through the glaze. They've stopped very well ever since. Bendix lists two different break in procedures on their website. I followed the more aggressive one, but I must have braked too hard, causing the glazing. If I had to do it over again, I'd just do a few medium pressure stops and then just drive normally.


BTW - here's a thread with pics of my CT-3s.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...394#Post2238394

 

[johnachak]

Originally Posted By: barlowc
What exactly is an "abutment clip kit"? Some front pad sets for our VUE come with them and others don't?

I'm considering between Bendix CT-3, Akebono Pro-ACT, and Wager ThermoQuiet pads for our VUE. The Bendix and Wagner pad sets both seem to include that additional hardware, whereas the Akebono set does not.

Why would some need/include that hardware and others not?

While we're on the subject, what do you guys think of Bendix CT-3 vs. Akebono Pro-ACT vs. Wager ThermoQuiet for my application?

Cost isn't a real factor because I can get them all for about the same price. The advantage of Akebono and Wager is that I can get them locally at AAP whereas I'd have to order the Bendix online. It appears as if Akebono is the OEM supplier.


I do not have experience with the VUE but I do a lot of brakes.
I always change the clips when I replace pads. I use high temp caliper bolt lube on the slide pins after I clean them too. Some kits come with the hardware, some you have to pay for them separately. The pads slide on the clips. Its much easier to see how the old ones are installed and just put the new ones on the new pads rather than trying to clean the old ones. I even go so far as to change the rubber boots on the slide pins when it comes time to do the pads and rotors ( About every 2-3 pad changes, I'm anal about rotors...). They are purchased separately also. This is how I do brakes. Many people I know just reuse the clips and do not clean and re lube the pins. Your choice. I do know I normally do not have problems with sticking calipers and unusually uneven pad wear some others experience. Good luck on whatever you decide.

 

[NHGUY]

In the old days,the metal backer of the pad rode right on the caliper.It would fit into the ears of the caliper and bracket.After a while,this metal to metal friction would groove up the caliper/bracket rendering it almost useless.The pad would then chuck back and forth in its mountings with no way to make up for the gap.When rebuilders would get the calipers,they could not rebuild the housings,and when your bracket/knuckle was worn you were visiting the dealer.With abutment shims,now the wear is on the replaceable part,and all free play is gone.Now the rebuilders can refurbish the calipers until there was nothing left (due to rust).

 

[barlowc]

Alright, so now I see and understand the additional hardware. So it seems that with the Akebono pads I'll either have to buy a hardware kit (approximately $15) or clean/reuse what's there now. So maybe I'll go with Bendix or Wagner, both of which comes with the hardware. And Wagner I can get local when I decide to do the job.

 

[mechtech2]

Stephen -
That GG rating is really high for a street pad on a car.
They must grab really well!
And you have learned to just drive the car normally for brake break in, just like anybody's new car.
[Racing is different]

The word abutment means a termination point, or end.
So clips or shims on the ends or sides are what is referred to.
Probably a normal hardware package.

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2

And you have learned to just drive the car normally for brake break in, just like anybody's new car.
[Racing is different]


I still believe a bedding in of some type is beneficial, but I'll go easier on them in the future. I think my problem was that I was braking too hard, not the fact that I was bedding in the brakes.

Bendix recommends bedding in for all their street pads, as do many manufacturers.

 

[mechanicx]

The Akebono aren't really like the OEM pads. The OEM pads come with the abutment clips and usually a new caliper bolt. If you are going to pay the price of the Akebonos they are almost as much as OE online. The OE are probably the best and if ordering online I'd go with them. I would want the abutment kit. You could probably get the adbutment kit separate and go with the Akebonos locally, but you'd probably be at the price of the OE.

 

[barlowc]

Any idea what Original Equipment, Akebono Pro-ACT, and Wagner ThermoQuiet pads are rated? It sounds like Bendix CT-3 are GG. I wouldn't mind the additional "bite" since I never thought the VUE's brakes were that great, even when new.

 

[stephen9666]

Look up the part number for your car and email Akebono. I'm sure they'll tell you. That's how I found out where they're made, by emailing them.

Also, I can't guarantee thr CT-3s for your application will be GG, but I have seen other posts where people said many of them are GG. Bendix could tell you.

As far as the OE, you'll probably have to look at a set. That's how I fond out the OE pads on my Sonata were FF.

 

[yonyon]

I'm pretty sure these clips are made from stainless that's got pretty high resistance to both corrosion and frictional wear. Some will have a rubberized backing. They tend to last a lot longer than the bare cast iron underneath would without them. As such, it usually isn't necessary to replace them if they appear to be in good condition. If the clips appear to be in good condition they can probably be cleaned and reused without any issue. New clips often become bent while still in the box and will require careful examination and possibly some bending before installation if they're to work properly.

If the existing clips appear to be corroded or broken, or damaged in any way, they should be replaced. If the existing pads do not slide freely or if the vehicle is a Ford one should assume there is rust buildup underneath the clips. In this case the clips should be removed so as to clean away the corrosion and coat the surfaces with a suitable anti-corrosion treatment such as a "high temperature brake grease" or "moly brake grease" and the clips then reinstalled or replaced.

 

[The Critic]

On the two occasions that I tried using the replacement abutment clips, they did not fit as well as the original clips. I just wire brushed the original clips and reused them.

I would go with the OE pads, not premium aftermarket pads.

 

[edwardh1]

most japanese stuff, owned or made, is good, try the akebono. I get great life

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: mechtech2

And you have learned to just drive the car normally for brake break in, just like anybody's new car.
[Racing is different]


I still believe a bedding in of some type is beneficial, but I'll go easier on them in the future. I think my problem was that I was braking too hard, not the fact that I was bedding in the brakes.

Bendix recommends bedding in for all their street pads, as do many manufacturers.


Well ,yes. New pads/rotors HAVE to seat.
But this is actually unavoidable if you drive the car. They are going to seat perfectly anyways.
I shy away from aggressive techniques

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
They are going to seat perfectly anyways.


Not always. Bedding provides a more even distribution of pad material.

Can you get away without bedding in many instances? Probably yes.

But will they be guaranteed to "seat perfectly anyways?" No.

I'm not trying to start a pro/anti-bedding argument in this thread. Anyone who's interested in the topic should read what the manufacturers say and the many threads on the topic.

 

[barlowc]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I'm not trying to start a pro/anti-bedding argument in this thread. Anyone who's interested in the topic should read what the manufacturers say and the many threads on the topic.

Akebono's literature for their Pro-ACT pads lists the following as a feature:

Post cured and heat scorched to ensure the highest initial effectiveness requiring no “break-in procedures”

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: barlowc
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I'm not trying to start a pro/anti-bedding argument in this thread. Anyone who's interested in the topic should read what the manufacturers say and the many threads on the topic.

Akebono's literature for their Pro-ACT pads lists the following as a feature:

Post cured and heat scorched to ensure the highest initial effectiveness requiring no “break-in procedures”


The recommendations vary by manufacturer. If Akebono says not to bed-in the pads, then that's exactly what I'd do.

Here's a link with Bendix's recommendation, which is a bedding-in procedure. Basically, they recommend the 30-30-30 method in this link.
www.bendixbrakes.com/download/pdf/Brake-Burnishing-Procedures.pdf

 

[SteveSRT8]

Here is a link to all of Stoptech's white papers. Some people here definitely need to do some research.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers

I get such a kick how everyone disregards the facts here. Anyone really want to dispute the procedures developed and proven by a premier brake manufacturer?

 

[barlowc]

My Akebono example was just that... an example. I didn't mean to imply that because Akebono's Pro-ACT pads don't require any special break in, no pads do.

And while I don't dispute what the manufacturer's suggest for their products, I think mechtech2 makes a very good point. Are the pads on new cars broken in using? When someone gets a brake job at a dealer or another brake shop, are they broken in? I would say that at least 95% of the time the answer to that question is no, and I'm sure those shops aren't using pads from manufacturer's who have explicitly said that no break in is required.

On a side note, I don't consider Centric/StopTech a premier brake manufacturer. Not with what I went through recently with their products and have griped about in other threads. But I digress.

 

[SteveSRT8]

No problem here, you get to choose whatever you want.

But, as an owner of two fantastic Stoptech kits, one on a truck and one on a car, I have become familiar with their high performance parts only. I have never purchased a Centric product.

Carrol Smith is a VERY respected member of the automotive world, consulting with many major manufacturers and competition teams. And this is for decades, not just a few years. To imagine that me or you know more than he does might be a bit of a stretch.

No one here has ever stated the bedding process is required, only that it is beneficial. Any participation is optional, as we all know most brakes work, eh?