Kia Optima Trans Fluid - Dump and Fill

Its been a couple weeks on MaxLife, and I'm thinking of doing the full fluid exchange (3x pan drains and fills). The fluid was pretty dark when I did my first drain, and it looks a lot better now, but its still pretty dark and the fluid change is so easy, i'm thinking I want to do at least one more.

So, now I'm at a crossroads. While I like the way maxlife "feels" in the transmission, it definitely shifts "softer", which isn't always a good thing. However, I've continued reading on the subject and one forum poster said he added some Lubegard Black to his maxlife filled Hyundai transmission and the quickness in the shifts came back and the fluid looked a lot better after 30k miles than the standard SP3 did after 30k.

I can also get a case of Eneos SP3 for about 3.60/qt from "a guy who knows a guy", which makes it cheaper than maxlife, and its SP3 specific. That, and some Lubegard red is supposed to be a good combination too.

I've also heard lots of good things about ATF+4, which I can get even cheaper.

So many choices, so many opinions on the internets.

I think I got another case of BITOG-itis, and I am over-thinking the situation. I've had this before and it cost me a Bosch D+ oil filter.

Thoughts?
 
Just do a couple of more pan drains and see how the transmission does before messing with other additives. When I do pan drains on my vehicles I always drive over 100 miles between changes to make sure all the valving get the new stuff. Ed
 
While I am annoyed with having to buy SPIII from my local Kia dealer for $6.00 a quart, I can do the easiest drain/fills each year for $35. I am maintaining my warranty and doing yearly drain/fills. I did two drain fills at 37,000.

I think we all agree that SPIII is a poor fluid but with an OEM drain plug there is no excuse not to do yearly drain/fills with the OEM fluid.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: bigblumer
Shifting has not been a problem so far. I have not noticed any difference in shifting. I've heard that this transmission design is the same/similar as a Chrysler design, so I may go with ATF+4 when I do my next pan drain, or I may go back to SP-III if I find shifts to be a problem.


That's scary. Save for a rebuild; Chrysler automatic transmissions are HORRIBLE.

I need to do research on that - I know a few people with over 100k on their Hyundais / Kias on the original transmission.


How are Chrysler automatic transmissions horrible?
 
04SE : A couple of questions on Kia drain & fill : What mm size is the transmission drain plug ? I'm thinking 22mm as I know the oil drain plug is 17mm. Also is there a process you could advise or link to regarding drain & fill "how to" of Kia / Hyundai Automatic Transmissions ? ... I already change the oil in my two Kia's and one Hyundai , so I wanted to investigate how difficult it is to do a drain & fill on the Automatic Transmission . Thanks ...
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
04SE : A couple of questions on Kia drain & fill : What mm size is the transmission drain plug ? I'm thinking 22mm as I know the oil drain plug is 17mm. Also is there a process you could advise or link to regarding drain & fill "how to" of Kia / Hyundai Automatic Transmissions ? ... I already change the oil in my two Kia's and one Hyundai , so I wanted to investigate how difficult it is to do a drain & fill on the Automatic Transmission . Thanks ...


I use a 15/16 open ended wrench.
 
The drain plug on my 07 Optima was 24mm. There isn't much a how-to could tell you. I think changing the fluid is easier than an oil change.

1. Remove the dip-stick.
2. Crawl under car with a large pan, and a 24mm socket. Remove drain plug, drain into pan.
3. Once finished draining, replace plug.
4. Using an old 5qt oil container, measure what drained from the pan. This will be the amount of new fluid you will need. (4.5qts)
5. Refill with new fluid through the dipstick tube. You'll need a long narrow funnel.
6. Drive around and check fill level, with the engine running, in park, after its up to operating temperature,

Easy!
 
Originally Posted By: bigblumer
The drain plug on my 07 Optima was 24mm. There isn't much a how-to could tell you. I think changing the fluid is easier than an oil change.

1. Remove the dip-stick.
2. Crawl under car with a large pan, and a 24mm socket. Remove drain plug, drain into pan.
3. Once finished draining, replace plug.
4. Using an old 5qt oil container, measure what drained from the pan. This will be the amount of new fluid you will need. (4.5qts)
5. Refill with new fluid through the dipstick tube. You'll need a long narrow funnel.
6. Drive around and check fill level, with the engine running, in park, after its up to operating temperature,

Easy!


I could not have said it better. However, I will add one thing. Make sure the crush gasket on the drain plug is in good shape or buy a new one as a precaution. I had to really snug mine down to get rid of a slight drip.
 
I need to find a new Kia dealer to buy my OEM stuff from. 1 quart of Kia SP-III was 9.95! Oil filters are 7.95, and they don't come with a crush washer. Those are an extra 1.95. What a rip-off.
 
Originally Posted By: bigblumer
I need to find a new Kia dealer to buy my OEM stuff from. 1 quart of Kia SP-III was 9.95! Oil filters are 7.95, and they don't come with a crush washer. Those are an extra 1.95. What a rip-off.


My local Hyundai dealer charges around $7.00 for SP-III. My filters are the cartridge style and come with the crush washer in the package. The filters are $7.14.
 
Originally Posted By: bigblumer

I've also heard lots of good things about ATF+4, which I can get even cheaper.

Thoughts?


I use atf+4 in 3 of my cars that call for SPIII and psf2 or psf3, two mistsubishis and one hyundai here are two good reads on the subject.

The 1st one is a Chrysler TSB that clarifies what atf to use in Mitstsubishi made chrysler products.

The second read is a post that I found on the internet. I have no idea if what the poster is saying is true or not, but I know that atf+4 works just fine in my 3 cars that call for spIII and psf2 and psf3


NUMBER: 21-003-02
GROUP: Transmission
DATE: Jul. 29, 2002
SUBJECT:
ATF+4 Usage
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin provides information about ATF+4 usage in ST22 models.
MODELS:
2001 - 2003 (ST) Sebring/Stratus Coupe
DISCUSSION:
ATF+4 (type 9602) is approved for use in Sebring/Stratus Coupe power steering and automatic transaxles. The fluid is fully compatible in power steering systems and no additional maintenance information is required. When using ATF+4 in automatic transaxles, the following information is required for proper service and maintenance.
SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE
When using ATF+4 as a complete fill in Sebring/Stratus Coupe models, the maintenance for schedule A is changed to a 60,000 mile fluid replacement interval. Schedule B remains the same as listed in the owners manual. The owner should be notified about this schedule change when ATF+4 is used as a complete fill.
NOTE: USING ATF+4 FOR TOP OFF WILL NOT CHANGE THE ORIGINAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FACTORY FILL OR ORIGINAL MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.
GENERAL SERVICE FILL
ATF+4 is fully compatible for top off or for any transaxle service procedures that would require fluid fill or fluid replacement. Special considerations are required if a new torque converter is installed.
TORQUE CONVERTER REPLACEMENT
If a new torque converter is installed, ATF+4 can be used however, green torque converter shudder MAY be experienced. If green torque converter shudder is experienced, it will be eliminated over time as the torque converter clutches wear or burnish in. If shudder occurs, the vehicle can be driven (in torque converter partial lockup) until the condition is eliminated. If customer concerns arise due to green torque converter shudder use the following procedure.
NOTE: TO ELIMINATE ANY CONCERNS OF GREEN TORQUE CONVERTER SHUDDER, THE TRANSAXLE CAN BE FILLED WITH DIAMOND SPIII FLUID PN 05073942AA DURING THE INITIAL FILL.


psf.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: postjeeprcr
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: bigblumer
Shifting has not been a problem so far. I have not noticed any difference in shifting. I've heard that this transmission design is the same/similar as a Chrysler design, so I may go with ATF+4 when I do my next pan drain, or I may go back to SP-III if I find shifts to be a problem.


That's scary. Save for a rebuild; Chrysler automatic transmissions are HORRIBLE.

I need to do research on that - I know a few people with over 100k on their Hyundais / Kias on the original transmission.


How are Chrysler automatic transmissions horrible?


Because in the T&C van the transmission is usually dead by 90,000 miles. Ones found in the cars don't last much longer.
 
^^^boneheaded remark with no credibility. Yeah, they made some bad ones, but just like the huge fuss over Dexcool it has been amplified by the Internet and carried out way beyond what it really was.

And was is the key word here. Almost any modern Chrysler, even the FWD models, have normal or better than average failure rates on transmissions. My model actually has a nearly bulletproof trans in it that is good all the way to 500 rwhp.
 
C'mon Steve.

You can't have a trans drain/fill thread without a few Chrysler minivan trans posts popping up like a turd in a punch bowl. Kidding!

They were never any worse than most other MVs of that era. Chrysler just had the most on the road. Prolly still do.

Joel
 
Last edited:
Their rear drive 42RE (and all of the other variations) 42RLE 42RH were pretty horrible, too (and those were rear drive models).

The newer ones aren't Chrysler units, are they? The six speeds, etc. Ford wisened up, realized they couldn't make a front drive automatic work and started getting theirs from Aisin.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Their rear drive 42RE (and all of the other variations) 42RLE 42RH were pretty horrible, too (and those were rear drive models).

just for your own info the 42rle is not derived or a variation from the 42re.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
C'mon Steve.

You can't have a trans drain/fill thread without a few Chrysler minivan trans posts popping up like a turd in a punch bowl. Kidding!

They were never any worse than most other MVs of that era. Chrysler just had the most on the road. Prolly still do.

Joel


yessir, you are absolutely correct.

And I would be happy to agree if we were discussing specific models.

It's the poorly researched blanket comments I dispute.
 
Originally Posted By: bigblumer
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Ford wisened up, realized they couldn't make a front drive automatic work and started getting theirs from Aisin.


I thought the Ford 6-Speed was a joint venture with GM?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM-Ford_6-speed_automatic_transmission


Some Fusions and Five Hundreds used the Aisin F21

Originally Posted By: caravanmike
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Their rear drive 42RE (and all of the other variations) 42RLE 42RH were pretty horrible, too (and those were rear drive models).

just for your own info the 42rle is not derived or a variation from the 42re.


The ones in the Grand Cherokees, Wranglers Pre '12, Dodge Dakotas (6 cyl) are pretty bad.
 
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