Worst oil filter Ive ever seen

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Had a nice Volvo S80 T6 in on saturday for a bad misfire. She just picked the car up about a month ago. I diag the car, go over the usual points on it, and check the oil level. On the dipstick is black chunks, and no oil shown. I open the cap and the filler is clogged! Theres normally a cheese grater type screen in the filler cap, this one was totally blocked. The oil actually would not go down until I cleaned it out. Anyway, we did a flush on it and mud pretty much came out at I threw 2 quarts of the Pennzoil we stock and got the OK for a de slusge/flush. Ran some through and dumped it out. Pure mud came out first followed by some black, black oil. The picture below shows how bad it was. The filter was a cheap Polish made on to begin with, so not a good starting point. Shown next to it is an OE Mann filter. The flush used was CRC quick flush. Refilled with 0/40 M1.
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Most engines neglected that badly usually blow up after flushing and fresh oil... I feel bad for that car even if it is a Volvo.
 
Why would you do a flush to the engine? Those usually cause problems... and they definitely aren't recommended by almost any manufacturer.Sucks to be you if it dies...
 
Ive never had an issue after flushing a sludged motor. We see many Audis with the 1.8ts and have had some luck on the ones we caught early, some of course needed a new pump and pickup. The Volvo ran better, much quieter, with no lifter noise. I gave her a 3-4k OCI and recommended her back for shorter interval. The filter is actually rock hard, I cant move the pleats at all. I find it odd the mentality that the flush would kill the motor and not the sludge. 1 pint in 8 quarts of oil probably couldnt dilute it enough to wipe it out, and it was run at idle for 5 mins.
 
I'd recommend coming back earlier than 3-4k even though you did put M1 0w40 in it.

Did you recommend to her to keep an eye on the oil something like weekly?

What did it look like down the fill hole once this was all done?
 
Considering shes an 18 year old girl, who Im pretty sure Daddy bought the car for, shell be getting a thorough lesson in oil level maintenance. The fill hole is heavily varnished but cleaner. I took the cap off and dripped some flush on it. After sitting for 5 mins the caked on, hard crusty deposits were wiped off with my finger, they turned liquid.
Writing that, I do see what people may mean by the flush possibly loosening things up too much. Ill recommend her back before 3k to get that filter out again. Ill take a pic when we see her again.
 
@Audios:

It's not the flush chemical that creates the problem, it is the debris (oil solidified oil or hardened residue, that might come dislodged and get jammed in a critical area causing a seizure.

Hopefully you got lucky.

I agree with others, she needs to check that oil at every 5 days or so. I would also ask her to come back at 1500-2000 miles to let you check it just to be sure.

Hopefully she will pay attention to any oil pressure light that comes on. I would remind her to pay attention to that and if it lights she needs to turn the engine off immediately if possible and come to a stop as long as it is safe.
 
Yes and this is what drives me nuts. We have an instance here of a mechanic performing a very quick, and might I say hopeful, operation on a vehicle that had a serious problem.

As part of the process to do the work, he calls up an 18 year old girl to get the go ahead and she says yes. Presumably it was just, we recommend flushing the engine as there is sludge in there.

Then they do the job and don't warn her what to look for afterwards.

No real helpful information being exchanged at any time to help her come to an informed decision. No real thought given to the seriousness of the situation and the costs involved.

It's a freaking 18 year old with a sludged Volvo S80 making decisions.

It's as casual as "Do you want fries with that?"
 
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I would change the current fill M1 0W40 and Mann filter in 400-500 miles with conventional 5W30 and a new filter for 1k miles, run the next conventional 5W30 and new filter for 2k miles then M1 0W40 and filter for 5k miles. Back to normal OCI after the fourth short OCI's.
 
Originally Posted By: RedCorvette
he calls up an 18 year old girl to get the go ahead and she says yes. Presumably it was just, we recommend flushing the engine


LOL, this reminds me the post I saw on some other forum where engine flush was offered to an owner of prius with 10,000 miles by a dealership.

Here the circumstances are quite different.
 
if that's the volvo still on the rack behind the filters, it also needs tires. just goes to show that a proper inspection was never done before purchase. before I bought my last used car, I pulled a valve cover and dropped the tranny pan.
 
IMO....This vehicle sounds like a good candidate for some HD Diesel Dino, MMO and maybe, if it survives, a couple of Kreen treatments down the road.

IMO....Rotella Triple Protection, Diesel Dino in 10w-30 for a few short runs should help to loosen up and dissolve the crud while the Diesel Dino oil will hold the contaminants in suspension until draining.
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
IMO....This vehicle sounds like a good candidate for some HD Diesel Dino, MMO and maybe, if it survives, a couple of Kreen treatments down the road.

IMO....Rotella Triple Protection, Diesel Dino in 10w-30 for a few short runs should help to loosen up and dissolve the crud while the Diesel Dino oil will hold the contaminants in suspension until draining.


I'm pretty sure M1 0w40 is more than up to the task.
 
+1 for the shorter interval.

I'd try to get a hold of that car in the next 500 miles to do another Oil change interval.

Although Mobil 1 10w40 is awesome in cleaning and robustness, I too worry about inundating that filter will all kinds of crud, then having something clog a critical passage.
 
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