Ford Escape Replaced Strut now Wheel alignment?

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I have replaced the front right Strut on my Ford Escape with a used strut/spring assembly. (old one broke a spring) After my road test the vehicle drove fine and did not pull in any one direction.

Should I still get a wheel alignment done, or am I Okay?
 
Definitely! All else being equal, you wouldn't, but all else isn't equal. If you were nearby I'd bet you a nice shiny chilli dog that you're riding a little low. It doesn't have to create a pull for the total toe to be wrong. The total toe is what eats tires fastest (well maybe second fastest after underinflated tires) so you want it to be close.
 
I would at least get it checked and see what's up.
There is a chance that it may have HELPED things, actually!

Like wind chill, it depends on if you are walking with or against the wind.
 
Strut has nothing to do with the toe, if it is bent it will change camber. I would drive it if tire wear was fine before
 
If you change a strut and change camber you will change toe... leaving everything else alone.

In fact if you check your toe you can infer your camber is good, if it was good before.

I like putting a laser level at 4 and 8 oclock on the front tire bulges, should just barely miss the rear tire bulges. (Aim at pavement nearby.)

Stock struts "often" don't have adjustments for camber while aftermarket ones "usually do". Was actually good you stuck a stock factory one on!!!

Sometimes you can get a free alignment check (but be prepared for a hard sell). Get a printout with numbers and know your numbers ahead of time from the FSM or google. Was just reading of a system that put in-spec alignment figures in yellow if they were halfway towards being out of range.
 
also consider when you will need tires next- if these ones are on the way out, why not wait until you get your next set. why pay for an alignment twice?!
 
You could do a quick sort of "is it bad" check with some waxed paper on a smooth stretch of side road or parking lot. Lay down about 5 feet of waxed paper with the ends trying to curl down and duct tape it to the pavement at the ends. Get it as straight ant tight as you can. Get your car rolling and coast over the waxed paper with one side of the car only. Make sure you get at least 20 feet of a start before you hit the paper and coast over it going straight. Look at the waxed paper. If it looks like the tire tried to drag the paper sideways...well...there's your answer.
 
Also, being as you have new tires you can do a chalk test similar to if you wanted to set your pressures for minimal wear (as opposed to comfort or performance.) Borrow a tire crayon from the local tire shop and make a straight line across the tread of at least one fron tire and at least one bact tire. Marking in two or three places can make it easier to read. Drive straight on a smooth reasonably level road until the line fades some. If both the inboard and outboard areas of the tread clear the crayon off at the same rate, you're good, or at least close.
 
If the replacement strut is identical to the original, I'd leave it alone. I once had a '98 Pathfinder on which I changed both struts, and the KYBs that went on were identical to the OE KYBs so I didn't touch the alignment after. I'm sensitive to what my steering wheel tells me and I check my tires often enough that I'd catch any issues. There were none.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
You could do a quick sort of "is it bad" check with some waxed paper on a smooth stretch of side road or parking lot. Lay down about 5 feet of waxed paper with the ends trying to curl down and duct tape it to the pavement at the ends. Get it as straight ant tight as you can. Get your car rolling and coast over the waxed paper with one side of the car only. Make sure you get at least 20 feet of a start before you hit the paper and coast over it going straight. Look at the waxed paper. If it looks like the tire tried to drag the paper sideways...well...there's your answer.


YonYon, have you actually done this wax paper test?
 
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