Female here. Don't know much about cars but have been told by the shop that changed the oil of my 2011 Honda Accord that we had to use the 0W20 or else our warranty would be voided. Very expensive stuff. Anyone know if that's true? I've searched the internet and have found discussions stating yes and no. Any help would be appreciated!
Does oil type void warranty?
- Thread starter adgkmgplus2
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Your best bet is to look in your owners manual.
Everything that is stated in the owners manual is what you are required to do for maintenance in order to keep your warranty intact.
If the owners manual says only 0W-20, then that's what you will have to use. If it gives you a range of oils you can use, then you can choose any one of them that meets your climate and financial needs.
If the owners manual says that the oil must meet a specif spec oil, like HT-06, for example, then you can choose any weight oil that meets that requirement, even if it isn't a 0W-20 weight oil.
So, hunt down your owners manual, and have a look.
BC.
Everything that is stated in the owners manual is what you are required to do for maintenance in order to keep your warranty intact.
If the owners manual says only 0W-20, then that's what you will have to use. If it gives you a range of oils you can use, then you can choose any one of them that meets your climate and financial needs.
If the owners manual says that the oil must meet a specif spec oil, like HT-06, for example, then you can choose any weight oil that meets that requirement, even if it isn't a 0W-20 weight oil.
So, hunt down your owners manual, and have a look.
BC.
0w20 oil is more for fuel economy than anything else.
If you use a thicker oil, and then complain about not getting the fuel economy you used to get... then they can tell you to pound sand.
you might be to find Mobil 1 AFE 0w20... for a decent price.
If you use a thicker oil, and then complain about not getting the fuel economy you used to get... then they can tell you to pound sand.
you might be to find Mobil 1 AFE 0w20... for a decent price.
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The way I look at it is this.. The likelihood of you having an oil related failure while under warranty is about as slim as it gets. I have been changing my oil in my Honda with whatever I feel fit and unless I have an oil related failure for warranty claim, they have no reason to ask to see what oil my car is using if it needs for example an alignment. IF it were me in your shoes, I would just use 5w20 or something that costs less. It will not hurt your engine.
another part of the cost is...Honda genuine parts tend to be expensive.
I'm not sure if the Honda oil is synthetic or not....
I'm not sure if the Honda oil is synthetic or not....
Welcome to Bitog. We've discussed this topic before, and it ends up in a heated debate sometimes. IMO the bottom line is this: As Bladecutter stated follow the OM, use an oil that meets the Honda Specs and in the viscosity Honda recommends. Once your warranty is up you can use whatever oil you please. True odds are you'll "probably" never have a problem. But if you do, are you up to dealing with a major hassle if the dealer deems the oil was at fault? Would you like to try and collect from an oil company? Odds are the oil company is going to try and find fault with the engine, then its round and round you go, waiting w/o a car. You might even need to hire a lawyer.
when Ford spec'd 5w20 for its engines, the dealerships would sometimes test the oil to ensure it was 5w-20 and if it wasn't, they would void the warranty.
Reason for this was a lot of people were afraid to use a very very thin oil, especially for a v8 motor.
IF you were to use a thicker oil, that would be your risk, more than likely everything would be fine with say a 5w-30, however if there's an internal engine issue that arises, and dealership can prove it was oil related you could be in for the whole bill..
as everyone's said, check owner's manual, the dealership can't dispute that AND AND AND save your oil change receipts, of if you change the oil yourself, keep the receipts proving you purchased the correct oil weight and filter.
Reason for this was a lot of people were afraid to use a very very thin oil, especially for a v8 motor.
IF you were to use a thicker oil, that would be your risk, more than likely everything would be fine with say a 5w-30, however if there's an internal engine issue that arises, and dealership can prove it was oil related you could be in for the whole bill..
as everyone's said, check owner's manual, the dealership can't dispute that AND AND AND save your oil change receipts, of if you change the oil yourself, keep the receipts proving you purchased the correct oil weight and filter.
Yes it will void the warranty. You must use only what the owner's manual says. 0W-20 is synthetic and the Maintenance Minder is callibrated for the use of synthetic oil. In other words, the oil change interval for your vehicle is likely around 10,000 miles. Conventional oils such as 5W-20 don't last as long as synthetic oils do. On top of that, 0W-20 will give you better gas mileage than 5W-20. In the long run, synthetic 0W-20 won't cost anymore than conventional.
What I would do if I was in your shoes is find the specs that the oil must meet per the owners manual and buy the oil from the store (Wal-Mart or a parts store special) and get the dealer to use what you bring for your vehicle.
If the dealer tries to give you the runaround and say you can't use it, mention the Magnuson-Moss warranty act and graciously thank them for the free oil future changes that they must give you since you can't use your own product according to them. That's if they give you the runaround.
If the dealer tries to give you the runaround and say you can't use it, mention the Magnuson-Moss warranty act and graciously thank them for the free oil future changes that they must give you since you can't use your own product according to them. That's if they give you the runaround.
Originally Posted By: adgkmgplus2
. . .have been told by the shop that changed the oil of my 2011 Honda Accord that we had to use the 0W20 or else our warranty would be voided. Very expensive stuff. Anyone know if that's true? . . . .
Your owner's manual states in pertinent part: "Always use a premium grade 0W-20 [weight] detergent oil displaying the API [American Petroleum Intitute] Certification Seal." The only 0W-20 weight "premium oils" now available are synthetics. So, yes, anything other than 0W-20 weight oil is at odds with the very specific requirements in your owner's manual.
Can you use something else? As others have suggested, you can -- there are several 5W-20 weight oils available, both synthetics and semi-synthetics that will perform just as well -- but if you have an engine-related failure that involves engine lubrication, almost certainly you'll be asked to furnish proof -- oil receipts, service records, etc. -- that demonstrates your Honda was maintained as outlined in your owner's handbook. (This is discussed in your manual under the topics "Maintenance" and "Recommended Engine Oil" at p. 349.) And then there's the fact that the difference in cost between the two oil weights (0W-20 vs. 5W-20) is negligible.
As other have suggested, to reduce the cost of servicing your Honda, you can buy a 0W-20 synthetic oil product by the "jug" (5 qt. container) (at Wal-Mart, for example) and take it to someone your trust when your Honda requires service. Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE (Advanced Fuel Economy), typically sells for approximately $25, if that helps. Pennzoil Platinium is another excellent synthetic, similarly priced.
In any case, for peace of mind if nothing else, were I you I'd buy what's recommended.
. . .have been told by the shop that changed the oil of my 2011 Honda Accord that we had to use the 0W20 or else our warranty would be voided. Very expensive stuff. Anyone know if that's true? . . . .
Your owner's manual states in pertinent part: "Always use a premium grade 0W-20 [weight] detergent oil displaying the API [American Petroleum Intitute] Certification Seal." The only 0W-20 weight "premium oils" now available are synthetics. So, yes, anything other than 0W-20 weight oil is at odds with the very specific requirements in your owner's manual.
Can you use something else? As others have suggested, you can -- there are several 5W-20 weight oils available, both synthetics and semi-synthetics that will perform just as well -- but if you have an engine-related failure that involves engine lubrication, almost certainly you'll be asked to furnish proof -- oil receipts, service records, etc. -- that demonstrates your Honda was maintained as outlined in your owner's handbook. (This is discussed in your manual under the topics "Maintenance" and "Recommended Engine Oil" at p. 349.) And then there's the fact that the difference in cost between the two oil weights (0W-20 vs. 5W-20) is negligible.
As other have suggested, to reduce the cost of servicing your Honda, you can buy a 0W-20 synthetic oil product by the "jug" (5 qt. container) (at Wal-Mart, for example) and take it to someone your trust when your Honda requires service. Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE (Advanced Fuel Economy), typically sells for approximately $25, if that helps. Pennzoil Platinium is another excellent synthetic, similarly priced.
In any case, for peace of mind if nothing else, were I you I'd buy what's recommended.
adgkmgplus2 -
Consider that 0-20 is a full synthetic, and can last about twice as long as a conventional dino oil.
This will attenuate costs, and may make is actually cheaper to use.
Consider that 0-20 is a full synthetic, and can last about twice as long as a conventional dino oil.
This will attenuate costs, and may make is actually cheaper to use.
I agree, especially for drivers who don't like to change their own oil, buy oil+filter and then bring it to a garage or dealer and pay $10-15 for labor. If OCI with syn oil is twice as long as dino oil, the labor cost of dino oil change is twice as much as with syn oil.
I went with the 0w/20 synthetic in my Civic for the same reasons the gentlemen above have already stated.
Its a better oil for extending your oil change interval. Sure, it will cost more but your Maintenance Minder will probably take you to at least 8k plus miles. Which is about twice as long as what is recommended for cheaper conventional oil. In other words, it comes out about the same. Except you are getting a much better oil for your car.
Make sure and follow that Maintenance Minder when it comes to oil especially. They can jerk you around on it if you need warranty work done.
For the record, my owners manual does not specify 0w20 oil but it does "suggest" 5w/20. And the 0w20 oil has been back-spec'ed to the 2006 models.
Its a better oil for extending your oil change interval. Sure, it will cost more but your Maintenance Minder will probably take you to at least 8k plus miles. Which is about twice as long as what is recommended for cheaper conventional oil. In other words, it comes out about the same. Except you are getting a much better oil for your car.
Make sure and follow that Maintenance Minder when it comes to oil especially. They can jerk you around on it if you need warranty work done.
For the record, my owners manual does not specify 0w20 oil but it does "suggest" 5w/20. And the 0w20 oil has been back-spec'ed to the 2006 models.
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Don't know much about cars
Good advice thus far.
If I may: learn how to check the oil every 1,000 miles or so.
If you follow the maintainance minder light (it is trustworthy), you will likely be running extended oil change intervals. Even a Honda can consume oil in between changes and damage due to running the motor low on oil will not be covered under warranty.
Don't know much about cars
Good advice thus far.
If I may: learn how to check the oil every 1,000 miles or so.
If you follow the maintainance minder light (it is trustworthy), you will likely be running extended oil change intervals. Even a Honda can consume oil in between changes and damage due to running the motor low on oil will not be covered under warranty.
Honestly, people. Has anyone ever had the experience of doing reasonable OCI's using any respectable oil on the market and had an "oil-related engine failure"?. I haven't. Nor has anyone I've ever known, and I'm 50. For example, about 20 years ago, a cousin of mine left some non-synth oil in his 1980 mustang long enough that it would have trouble idling. He then realized he hadn't changed the oil in about a year or so. He changed it out (it ran like water), and the car ran fine again. I think that car had about 150,000 to 200,000 km on it at the time. The car finally went to the wrecker's when the body rotted out.
So, worrying about a slight grade difference of oil (0w-20 vs 5w-20) is just a waste of time.
I have a 2000 Honda Oddysey van (168,000 km)that I've been running 0W-40 M1 in for the last 5 years (used to use M1 5w-30 -Honda spec). It actually sounds happier with the heavier grade (less mechanical clatter). It doesn't burn any oil between changes (8000 km) and the oil stays cleaner in that interval, as it has extended drain capability.
If the 0w-20 oil is hard to come by, or is too pricey, using the 5w-20 oil which is usually cheaper, has very similar characteristics, and is more obtainable, will do just fine. The important thing is to keep it changed out on a reasonable interval before it gets black, smelly and oxidixed.
So, worrying about a slight grade difference of oil (0w-20 vs 5w-20) is just a waste of time.
I have a 2000 Honda Oddysey van (168,000 km)that I've been running 0W-40 M1 in for the last 5 years (used to use M1 5w-30 -Honda spec). It actually sounds happier with the heavier grade (less mechanical clatter). It doesn't burn any oil between changes (8000 km) and the oil stays cleaner in that interval, as it has extended drain capability.
If the 0w-20 oil is hard to come by, or is too pricey, using the 5w-20 oil which is usually cheaper, has very similar characteristics, and is more obtainable, will do just fine. The important thing is to keep it changed out on a reasonable interval before it gets black, smelly and oxidixed.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I agree, especially for drivers who don't like to change their own oil, buy oil+filter and then bring it to a garage or dealer and pay $10-15 for labor. If OCI with syn oil is twice as long as dino oil, the labor cost of dino oil change is twice as much as with syn oil.
This is exactly my rationale. I change my oil once per year instead of every 6 months and I now have a mechanic change it for $10-15. I bought the $33 Mobil filter and 0W-20 combo and I am set.
I agree, especially for drivers who don't like to change their own oil, buy oil+filter and then bring it to a garage or dealer and pay $10-15 for labor. If OCI with syn oil is twice as long as dino oil, the labor cost of dino oil change is twice as much as with syn oil.
This is exactly my rationale. I change my oil once per year instead of every 6 months and I now have a mechanic change it for $10-15. I bought the $33 Mobil filter and 0W-20 combo and I am set.
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