TOTAL Quartz Energy 9000 5W40

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Originally Posted By: Garak
I'd lean towards the M1, mostly because of availability and it's most likely to be the one that's on sale at least some of the time. Before Caterham asks, have you considered a 0w-20 instead of a 5w-20 if you're going synthetic anyway?
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In any case, $7/L synthetic would be a decent price up here, at least without going on a scavenger hunt.


It would.

Found an Auto Supply Shop in the GTA that sells the Total Quartz 9000 Future XT 5W20 for just over $9 ( CDN ) / liter bottle.

The Amsoil XL 5W20 lists for just under $8 ( CDN ) / liter bottle.in the GTA. If you get the Preferred Customer discount ( and depending on how much oil you use in a year ) you might be able to pick up the XL for just over $6 ( CDN )./ liter bottle.
 
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Originally Posted By: clevel
Thank you for all of the information. Seems like Total makes a good product. Seems like the real question is whether to use 5w20 or 0w20 which I will research further.
Thanks again.

With a VI of only 150 I consider that pathetic for a synthetic oil and wouldn't pay more than a dino price for it. In fact any 5W-20 OTC syn' on sale I would prefer.
But a 0W-20 is the preferred way to go.
For example M1 0W-20, a superior oil, is usually cheaper on sale and will not void your warranty.
 
Terra_Nova, the best 20wt value in Canada is the XOM made Toyota 0W-20 with it's 216 VI and robust add' pac'. Not only is it one of the best 20wt oils available it can be had for 5-6 bucks a litre.

Second in line is the somewhat heavier Idemitsu made Honda/Acura 0W-20. It's in the 6 bucks/L range on a 12L case.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: clevel
Thank you for all of the information. Seems like Total makes a good product. Seems like the real question is whether to use 5w20 or 0w20 which I will research further.
Thanks again.


With a VI of only 150 I consider that pathetic for a synthetic oil and wouldn't pay more than a dino price for it. In fact any 5W-20 OTC syn' on sale I would prefer.
But a 0W-20 is the preferred way to go.
For example M1 0W-20, a superior oil, is usually cheaper on sale and will not void your warranty.


Just so I'm clear....why is a VI of 150 ' pathetic ' in your view ?

What would you consider a minimum acceptable VI for a 5W20 oil ?

Or, the sense I get, is it that you just think 0W20 trumps 5W20 under most circumstances..... most notably because of superior 0W20 VI's ?
 
Yes that's a good way of putting it; a 0W-20 trumps the 5W-20 grade.

One main advantage of synthetic oils is their inherently higher VI's. Many 5W-20 mineral oils (dino) have a VI of at least 150.
The 5W-20 is a dino grade that is unique to North America. In the rest of the world all 20wt oils are 0W-20's. There really isn't much point in making a synthetic oil with a VI no better than what a dino already provides.

To my way of thinking, unless a synthetic oil has a VI greater than 165 it's a poor value.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes that's a good way of putting it; a 0W-20 trumps the 5W-20 grade.

One main advantage of synthetic oils is their inherently higher VI's. Many 5W-20 mineral oils (dino) have a VI of at least 150.
The 5W-20 is a dino grade that is unique to North America. In the rest of the world all 20wt oils are 0W-20's. There really isn't much point in making a synthetic oil with a VI no better than what a dino already provides.

To my way of thinking, unless a synthetic oil has a VI greater than 165 it's a poor value.

And do you prefer the 0w-20 to be group III or group IV , or does this not matter at all given that the Visc index is >165 ?
 
I couldn't care less if it's GP III or GP IV athough if it contains a significant amount of GP V that would get my attention.

It's the performance spec's that count plus the add' pac'.
 
Which 0w20 would you recommend for a 2008 Ford Edge (25K miles) and a 2005 Honda Odyssey (110K miles)? Both are daily drivers with a majority of highway miles with some short trips mixed in around town.
 
Originally Posted By: clevel
Which 0w20 would you recommend for a 2008 Ford Edge (25K miles) and a 2005 Honda Odyssey (110K miles)? Both are daily drivers with a majority of highway miles with some short trips mixed in around town.

Ignoring price heres an off the top of my head list starting with my first choice:

Toyota 0W-20
Mazda and Mitsubishi 0W-20
Honda 0W-20
QSUD/PP 0W-20
Mobil Super 0W-20
Valvoline 0W-20
M1 AFE 0W-20
The rest of the OTC 0W-20s
 
Thank you for the information. I think I will switch both verhicles to the 0w20 based on your information. Is the dealer the best place to purchase the Toyota or Honda 0W20 or is there an online source to purchase from?
 
Yes every Toyota/Lexus and Honda/Acura dealer of course carries the OEM oil. Shop around and the best price can usually be negotiated on a 12 bottle case. BTW, if you're close to the Cdn border prices here can be cheaper and the Honda 0W-20 is the preferred Idemitsu made oil.

It is also available on line from some Toyota and Honda parts discounters.
 
Thanks. Just found it locally for $7.25/quart. Honda wanted $8.90/quart for their version so Toyota it is. Toyota oil in a Ford, oh boy.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I couldn't care less if it's GP III or GP IV athough if it contains a significant amount of GP V that would get my attention.

It's the performance spec's that count plus the add' pac'.


In addition to VI, what other ' performance specs ' would place an emphasis / focus on ?

And do you know if the commonly referenced technical specs for that Toyota 0W-20 has been detailed elsewhere on BITOG somewhere ?
 
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Originally Posted By: clevel
Which 0w20 would you recommend for a 2008 Ford Edge (25K miles) and a 2005 Honda Odyssey (110K miles)? Both are daily drivers with a majority of highway miles with some short trips mixed in around town.


This question would probably make a good thread topic in the PCMO forum and draw a much larger amount of feedback / suggestions from the BITOG membership I'd suspect..
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM


To my way of thinking, unless a synthetic oil has a VI greater than 165 it's a poor value.


Unless that VI is achieved with low grade VII's and PPA's. To me, this is the weakness of using VI as a guide for choosing motor oils.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM


To my way of thinking, unless a synthetic oil has a VI greater than 165 it's a poor value.


Unless that VI is achieved with low grade VII's and PPA's. To me, this is the weakness of using VI as a guide for choosing motor oils.


Is it reasonable to assume that in order for Toyota to get a 0W20 VI of 216, this very high VI was achieved primarily by mean of the heavy use of Viscosity Index Improver additives ?

So, if you had a Group 3 base stock, the additives would help drive the VI to such a high number of 216 ?

And I suppose with an Amsoil oil with a Group 4 base stock, the inherent nature of the Group already has a naturally high VI to begin with and may not degrade as quickly as an additive enhanced VI might.?

Could a Group 3 base stock with such a high VI, derived primarily ( I assume ) from additives sustain that VI spec over an extended drain interval in your view ?

Welcome your thoughts.
 
So I was set to go with the Toyota 0w20 for $7.25/quart (Need six quarts) however, I just found Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 in a 5 quart jug for $32.99 (Includes M 1 filter) with 25% off an additionl quart. Total cost for M 1 with filter would be about $40 + tax. Toyota cost would be $42 + tax + filter or about $15 more using the same M 1 filter. Even though I don't want cost to be the only factor, does it make for sense to go with the Mobil 1 AFE due to the deal from AAP?
 
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Originally Posted By: clevel
So I was set to go with the Toyota 0w20 for $7.25/quart (Need six quarts) however, I just found Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 in a 5 quart jug for $32.99 (Includes M 1 filter) with 25% off an additionl quart. Total cost for M 1 with filter would be about $40 + tax. Toyota cost would be $42 + tax + filter or about $15 more using the same M 1 filter. Even though I don't want cost to be the only factor, does it make for sense to go with the Mobil 1 AFE due to the deal from AAP?


What is your oil change interval going to be like with that oil and filter - i.e you going to go by some fixed miles / months extended drain interval or simply follow the oil life monitor ?
 
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