Anti-seize for spark plugs

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Aluminum heads, steel plugs. Copper or nickel?
I am looking at copper Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant 133

or nickel Vibra-TITE 907N Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant Compound, 2ml Bullet Tube om Amazon.

IIRC nickel is recommended for aluminum/steel combo, plus I do not need a full 1 oz tube.

Thanks
 
Oh boy, not this topic again. You don't need anti-seize on spark plugs. Any decent spark plug is coated with anti-rust coatings. If you change them at a decent interval there is no such need anyhow.
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
If you change them at a decent interval there is no such need anyhow.

What is a decent interval? A lot of car mfgs recommend changing spark plugs at 100K mile intervals these days.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: beast3300
If you change them at a decent interval there is no such need anyhow.

What is a decent interval? A lot of car mfgs recommend changing spark plugs at 100K mile intervals these days.


I have serviced doezens of cars over the years with 100k and plugs always come out. Age is more of a factor then mileage. 100k on a 5 year old car vs 100k on a 15 year old car.
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Oh boy, not this topic again. You don't need anti-seize on spark plugs. Any decent spark plug is coated with anti-rust coatings. If you change them at a decent interval there is no such need anyhow.

I took out the NGK IR out of the Corolla at 97k and they had rust and were pretty hard to remove. I used a bit of Versachem 13010 Copper.
 
FSM for may Axiom says 100K miles on one set of plugs. I have 65K miles and 10 years on the factory plugs. If I were to follow the FSM, I would need to keep them in for another 5 years, 15 years total. According to FSM it is OK, they give just the mileage, not age for the plug change. Would you want to take a plug out that's been in the head for 15 years w/o anti-seize?

If factory calls for a double platinum long life plug, that's what I'll put in. It is a waste spark system and it is very sensitive to the plug type. New plugs will stay in for another 10 years, and I want to be able to take them out safely, w/o stripping threads, so anti-seize seems to be a good choice in MY case.

So copper or nickel?
 
I've used both without a noticeable difference...aluminum heads in a Subaru 2.5L. However, I never-seize everything...including things that others here object to (and I've never had a problem either way).

This topic will be very opinionated, really quick...FYI.
 
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I have serviced doezens of cars over the years with 100k and plugs always come out. Age is more of a factor then mileage. 100k on a 5 year old car vs 100k on a 15 year old car. [/quote]

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This!!!!!


Lets put this topic to rest...
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^I've had no issues removing plugs after 100k on both my 07 Civic and 98 Camry (changing out the second time) Didn't use anti-seize when i reinstalled the new ones.

If torqued down properly, there shouldn't be any issues removing them later.
 
Again, I plan to leave plugs in for 10 (ten) years, so mileage is of secondary importance here. I have to use OEM double platinum Densos, so want to get my money's worth. I have fought spark plugs in my old Mirage before, and never want to do it again.

Deeter16317, thank you for the helpful post.
 
Originally Posted By: isercastik
I always use a dab. Peace of mind is worth it to me


Same here. I read to use the silver kind instead of the copper type, which is what I use.
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
I have serviced doezens of cars over the years with 100k and plugs always come out. Age is more of a factor then mileage. 100k on a 5 year old car vs 100k on a 15 year old car.

Good to hear. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
So copper or nickel?

Ursa, from what I see on the web, copper seems to be the choice when working with dissimilar metals (i.e. steel/aluminum). I also read that graphite based anti-seize should not be used on aluminum as it promotes corrosion.

Hope this helps!
 
I dunno, I've always used Aluminum Anti-Seize(its what I had) but I put a dab on one side of the ripple. I haven't had issues with it, then again the only car I kept long enough to see it work was the Impala and Jeep.

Other than that :|
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
You don't need anti-seize on spark plugs. Any decent spark plug is coated with anti-rust coatings. If you change them at a decent interval there is no such need anyhow.

Try telling that to the owners of the Ford modular engines with two piece spark plugs...
 
Whatever you use , use a very slight amount. I use di-electric grease that I use for the spark plug boot. It's clear and less messy than ant-seize.
 
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I did not want to use dielectric grease. I am afraid it will burn off in the heads, and won't help me with removal.
I plan to cover first two-three threads with AS, and let it spread as I am screwing the plugs in.

I am aware that I will need to watch the torque, since lube lowers the values by about 10%. I splurged on a good beam-style lb/inch torque wrench when I replaced the AT pan gasket.
 
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We don't put anti seize on plugs because of the many easy ones, we do it for the prevention of bad ones, because they sure can stick.

I'd use silver, not copper on aluminum. Copper MAY be perfectly safe, but I know copper/brass and aluminum create electrolysis.
And only a light amount!
 
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