High Mileage oil in an Wet clutch

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Honda VTX 1800. I bought some M1 high Mileage 10-40 instead of my usual M1 4t 10-40 racing oil. A trusted friend said not to use the HM it has too much friction modifier he says, Is that true?

Anyone have any experience?
 
Might be OK if the oil has little/no moly - I think M1 HM has a fair amount. I wouldn't do it.

Go get some Rotella T6 - its rated JASO MA and it's fairly cheap.
 
You're readin' my mind JRed. I Wanted the T6 in the first place and Wally World was out of it. So, I figured the HM would be a good choice. I guess I was wrong. Fortunately my friend cayght me before I put it in. Thanks
 
Agreed dont use it..

But on the flip side here is a true story:

In 2004 (when i was penny pinching poor) I put 4qrts of Valvoline WB in my 2001 Honda CBR 600F4I. The clutch was original with just under 10,000 on the clock. That spring i sold the bike to a good friend and told him there was "Car oil" in the bike and he should dump it and start over. Well he didnt, he rode the bike all summer logging over 7,000 miles in 2005. He dumped the oil and started over in spring of 06, although he has told me he added a total of around a qrt durring that 7,000 mile OCI.. we he did the OCI he went back to bike specific oil.. i know the third owner of that bike and its got over 29,000 on the original factory clutch.. so the fear of the clutch grenading in 10 miles in this situation was unfounded..

Believe me im not advocating for it, but it didnt turn out bad in this situation.
 
Friction modifiers additives are only a small percent of the total oil
product and help the base oil do things that it otherwise could not...
Additives fall into several basic categories but Moly is the most
often used friction modifier because it has such a high melting
temperature (4730¯ F versus 2795¯ F for iron), it works great as a
high-temperature, high-pressure antiwear agent. Some claim that
because moly is so slick, it can cause clutch slippage... but note
that 6 of the 19 motorcycle oils Sport Rider tested used moly
including the HP4 market by Honda for any of their motorcycles...
146-0310-Moly.content-zoom.gif


Technically speaking a wet clutch in good working order is not about
to slip no matter what oil the owner selects... what is confusing the
issue is the fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a point
in their life and start to slip... have you notice no one complains
about clutch slip when new... but on about the 27K range contaminants
may build up to point where the clutch begins to loose its grip during
WFO (Wide Fooking Open)throttle only... in error the oil is to blame
but technically speaking its really the clutch...

Quote SportRider
Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?

"To answer this in one word: No. Clutch slippage is caused by
many things, but the use of synthetic oil alone is usually
not the culprit. The truth is that some bikes seem to suffer
clutch slippage no matter what oil goes in them, while others
run fine with any oil. This is most likely caused by factors
other than the oil, such as the spring pressure, age and
clutch plate materials".

Quote Mark Junge, Vesrah's Racing representative

"He said that in his years of engine work he has yet to see a
slipping clutch that could be pinned on synthetic motor oil.
Junge felt that nearly every time the clutch was marginal or
had worn springs, the new oil just revealed a problem that
already existed."
 
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It's not energy conserving right? Why can't you use it? Everyone uses M1 15w50 with no problems although Mobil advises against it.
 
Originally Posted By: Sonic
It's not energy conserving right? Why can't you use it? Everyone uses M1 15w50 with no problems although Mobil advises against it.

Agreed, in fact I'm considering running it in my cbr600f4i. There is a guy w/ the same model bike as mine w/ over 200k miles on it running mobil 1 15w50 and 10w40 car oils and still on the original clutch last I checked. As far as I can tell the only 10w-40 auto oil mobil 1 has is the high mileage, so it shouldn't cause any problems. Knowing all this and the fact that getting 5 qts of mobil 1 HM for a better price per qt. than t6 has me taking a serious look at it.
 
Originally Posted By: grampi
Why would you buy HM oil for a bike?


High Mileage is just so much oil can labeling and easily ignored
because what really counts are the numbers and according to VOA
samples here at BITOG M1 4T carries more friction modifiers (moly)
than M1 HM... so the notion that M1 HM "has too much friction
modifier" is on shaky ground...

M1 4T

Boron.....248
Sodium......6
Magnesium..12
Calcium..2483
Phosphorus.1663
Zinc......1802
Moly........91
Visc@40C
[email protected]


M1 10W40 HM

Boron.....87
Sodium......2
Magnesium..646
Calcium..1008
Phosphorus.867
Zinc......996
Moly........65
[email protected]
 
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HM oil is not energy conserving because its viscosity is on the high end of the scale for its labeled viscosity grade. They may also keep out some of the energy conserving additive to save a few pennies in the manufacture of the oil. HM is about marketing, not about engines with high mileage.
 
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