cleaning and painting valve covers and engine pics

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3000 miles and he did have proof. I don't want any sopus fanatics to be upset but really he was pretty good at doing it on time. And yes overkill it was. But the hose is good and the PVC rattles and doesn't look real bad
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Couldn't he manually clean that while the covers are off? I'm sure the combustion chamber/cylinder head area has carbon deposits as well, so my other recommendations still stand. Idle time flushes before draining and within 1-2 years MAX(even if drawn out) and this engine will be looking great.


He could, but then risks breaking off chunks that the oil pump will ingest or could plug up the pick-up screen. Using something like M1 0w40 is going to be more "progressive" IMHO. I know it is expensive
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
3000 miles and he did have proof. I don't want any sopus fanatics to be upset but really he was pretty good at doing it on time. And yes overkill it was. But the hose is good and the PVC rattles and doesn't look real bad


That's the side where all the gasses get drawn up to, so blow-by and vaporized oil are drawn over top of the surface of that cylinder head and some of it condenses and forms what you see built-up there. A good oil will prevent that from occurring, as it will have enough dispersants and detergents to wash off the residue and keep it in suspension until the oil is changed.

The pic of my one high-mileage Windsor that I've posted is the PCV valve side. Draw your own conclusions based on that.
 
Where is that pic overkill? I wouldnt mind seeing it. Would you say Mobil 1 is my best bet no other synthetic or a Dino ?
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
Where is that pic overkill? I wouldnt mind seeing it. Would you say Mobil 1 is my best bet no other synthetic or a Dino ?


This engine has 338,000Km's on it (210,000 miles):

rockers.jpg


10-12,000Km OCI's on various grades of Mobil 1, the last I used was the 0w40 when it became available. Prior to that it saw everything from 0w20 to 5w50.

Oil filters were K&N or Motorcraft.

This is a 1987 302 from my '87 GT T-Top. The rest of this engine is just as clean. I think the age is relevant.

I'm a bit like Tig (though not as long a time period) but have been using Mobil 1 since my dad started letting me change the oil in our Townie, which was 1994.

In every engine I've ever used it in, the results were always a clean engine.

IMHO, their 0w40 is their flagship product designed for extended-drain Euro applications. It is their most robust formula and subsequently is going to do the most cleaning. THAT would be my suggestion for this application. It isn't going to clean it up over night, but then, you wouldn't want it to. But it will clean it up.
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
That is clean!!! So I'm guessing you swear by Mobil?


Yeah, pretty easy to see why eh?

I've got two 302's that look like this, both Mobil 1 engines. Both running the same OCI's. It has always worked well for me (like this) and that's why we use it.

I HAVE experimented with other brands (most notably Redline and Petro-Canada) since joining this site, but I always come back to M1. And in applications where I want an approved lubricant (like my M5) there isn't anything else even considered.
 
Walmart should have the 0w40, only thing is, it isn't cheap. It is their most expensive oil (go figure, since it is their most decorated too).
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
What would you say about the Mobil super synthetic


I would say it isn't as good as the 0w40. But I would say that about pretty much any of their oils. The 0w40 is their flagship oil, it has the most certs of I think any oil in existence for automotive applications. It IS that good.

However, the AFE 0w30 is also an excellent lube (I am running it in the Expedition) and is a fair bit lighter if that's your style.
 
^M1 0w-30 for 3,000 mile OCI for the next 3 oil changes should help a lot.

Also, instead of over-treating, he could begin with idle-flush additives just before dropping the used oil.

How about some fast runs on the interstate, too? Higher the RPM, the more work that area gets, right? That might encourage some of that crud to come off.

I don't see blotches and removing that stuff can sometimes spike wear, so I don't necessarily see the risk in 'blockage', perhaps some slowing of the oil return passages until it's suspended better. Oil-pick up, oil pump? Perhaps some debris, but more likely wear is going to happen without a complete attempt at manual cleaning. valve area, top-end, then oil pan removal, if you want to avoid circulating the crud that is insoluble, JMO...

M1 0w-40 is a good move, too, just perhaps 0w-30 for now and 0w-40 during the summer? ...but really any full synthetic will help. I like Amsoil, Ultra, Red Line...etc, they all have the goods as well. Buy in large containers at WM unless a special at a parts store is available.

PS: I'd compare the sound of the PCV valve to a new OE dealer PCV valve. Sometimes a new one will sound completely different from a used one. It'd be worth changing since it's so cheap anyway(usually, lol...dealers :[ ). The valve may still rattle, yet have a weakened internal spring(depending on the design).

Also, fuel additives with PEA, like Red Line SI-1 FSC from O'Reilly(most locations) claim to clean the PCV system as their vapors are strong enough to help with residual grime).
 
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Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
It is their most expensive oil (go figure, since it is their most decorated too).


It doesn't help that it's only in the 1L bottles, either. Considering that a lot of the vehicles that use M1 0w-40 have rather large sumps, you'd think a 4L or 5L jug would be a good idea. But, I imagine M1 5w-30 and M1 5w-20 outsell M1 0w-40 by a fair margin, at least in North America.
 
I have most the painting done looks pretty good so far. Should I clean the head as much as I can and then run an idle flush and change the oil I've never done this. But I do want to clean the engine the best way possible
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I have most the painting done looks pretty good so far. Should I clean the head as much as I can and then run an idle flush and change the oil I've never done this. But I do want to clean the engine the best way possible


Yes, you might as well, it would be a safe thing to do. And then switch to one of the oils we've discussed.

M1 AFE 0w30 is available in the big jug at Walmart, so that may make it a LOT less expensive for you.
 
What would I use? I haven't ever done anything like this. Also what really makes Mobil better than say synpower or pp. Just curious. From your engine pictures I have every reason to believe its very good stuff .
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
What would I use? I haven't ever done anything like this. Also what really makes Mobil better than say synpower or pp. Just curious. From your engine pictures I have every reason to believe its very good stuff .


Do you have a shop vac? If so, use a toothbrush and whatever you have handy to get off the loose stuff. If you are't opposed to dumping the oil that is in it, after you get the loose stuff with the shop vac, use the toothbrush and some carb cleaner (or AC Delco CC cleaner if you can get it, LOL!!!!) and give it a going over. Pull the drain plug, and after the oil is done draining, dump oil over the heads to rinse them off. Button it back up and do a quick 5 minute idle run with the cheapest possible oil you can find (don't change the filter) and then dump it again, replacing it with the GOOD oil and a new filter.

Change the filter after 1,500 miles to start and cut it open to see what you've caught.

I can't tell you that Mobil 1 is better than Synpower or PP. I've never used those two. What I CAN tell you is that Mobil has been making synthetic base stocks longer than either of them by decades and in the case of Synpower, well, Ashland does't "make" anything, they buy their base oils from Mobil, SOPUS or one of the other big players and their add packs from LUBRIZOL or INFINEUM (SOPUS/Mobil).

In addition you have my anecdotes and pictures. Based on those, yes, I assume you would infer that it is good stuff and IMHO, it is.
 
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