10W-30 synthetic in place of SAE 30
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Originally Posted By: 535678
Thanks for the answers everyone...much appreciated.
The engine I was speaking of, a Tecumseh HH60 from the 70's has been used sparingly on a rototiller. I'm guessing 500-1000 hours total use with dino SAE30 the whole time. Synthetic was recommended because of the steep operating angle when tilling deep into the soil. If the oil level were to run low, the front end of the engine won't be lubricated properly. That's what the tiller experts tell me anyway.
This dilemma has me wondering how much oil consumption to expect running 10W-30. After say ten hours would this be discernable or are we talking 10% (or more) of the oil volume?
What's the oil lubrication system a simple splash system. The splash system is crude and not perfect and in given situation becomes difficult for overall lubrication. Depending on the angle such as steep operation the oil level depth to be splashed upon may not be consistent. Also on a crude splash system higher viscosity oil will tend to stick on the surface longer thus one must understand the lubrication system itself. Also having a higher viscosity oil that is too thick to lubricate(small engines) is not a good idea. The monograde 30wt fits the balancing act. Given the choice with temp condition 65F-88F I'd take the Delo400 30wt over the Delo400 10-30 overall, pro's and con's.
Thanks for the answers everyone...much appreciated.
The engine I was speaking of, a Tecumseh HH60 from the 70's has been used sparingly on a rototiller. I'm guessing 500-1000 hours total use with dino SAE30 the whole time. Synthetic was recommended because of the steep operating angle when tilling deep into the soil. If the oil level were to run low, the front end of the engine won't be lubricated properly. That's what the tiller experts tell me anyway.
This dilemma has me wondering how much oil consumption to expect running 10W-30. After say ten hours would this be discernable or are we talking 10% (or more) of the oil volume?
What's the oil lubrication system a simple splash system. The splash system is crude and not perfect and in given situation becomes difficult for overall lubrication. Depending on the angle such as steep operation the oil level depth to be splashed upon may not be consistent. Also on a crude splash system higher viscosity oil will tend to stick on the surface longer thus one must understand the lubrication system itself. Also having a higher viscosity oil that is too thick to lubricate(small engines) is not a good idea. The monograde 30wt fits the balancing act. Given the choice with temp condition 65F-88F I'd take the Delo400 30wt over the Delo400 10-30 overall, pro's and con's.
The mention of oil being too thick to lubricate. Why do some folks use 40 weight (i.e. 15W40) in an OPE engine that calls for 30 weight?
What am I missing?
What am I missing?
Really don't think it matters all that much to an engine with splash lubrication. I just this morning warmed up the 6.75hp B&S mower, drained out 15w40 Royal Purple from last season and put in 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra. Changed air filters, sharpened the blade and mowed the yard to mulch leaf and straw that has fallen on the yard and the engine never knew the difference.
Why did I use what I did in my B&S, you ask. Because it's what I has sitting around in enough quantity to fill the engine. I usually have a gallon jug that I pour partial quarts of various oils into and that's what gets used in the lawn mowers, power washers, etc. These engines don't appear to be picky at all, don't over think it.
On another note I use Amsoil ASE 10w30 small engine oil in my Onan generator in my RV. That engine is worth the extra expense on oil because it would be much more expensive to replace.
Why did I use what I did in my B&S, you ask. Because it's what I has sitting around in enough quantity to fill the engine. I usually have a gallon jug that I pour partial quarts of various oils into and that's what gets used in the lawn mowers, power washers, etc. These engines don't appear to be picky at all, don't over think it.
On another note I use Amsoil ASE 10w30 small engine oil in my Onan generator in my RV. That engine is worth the extra expense on oil because it would be much more expensive to replace.
Originally Posted By: 535678
The mention of oil being too thick to lubricate. Why do some folks use 40 weight (i.e. 15W40) in an OPE engine that calls for 30 weight?
What am I missing?
"The mention of oil being too thick to lubricate." I should have stated it using a higher viscosity oil may cause excess heat and lag in these smaller engines.
On older engines in the thousands the Delo400 15w-40 has been used. It wasn't a problem.
The monograde 30wt maybe a problem in certain climate conditions(cold temp) which makes it difficult to use. One needs to compromise one's application.
The mention of oil being too thick to lubricate. Why do some folks use 40 weight (i.e. 15W40) in an OPE engine that calls for 30 weight?
What am I missing?
"The mention of oil being too thick to lubricate." I should have stated it using a higher viscosity oil may cause excess heat and lag in these smaller engines.
On older engines in the thousands the Delo400 15w-40 has been used. It wasn't a problem.
The monograde 30wt maybe a problem in certain climate conditions(cold temp) which makes it difficult to use. One needs to compromise one's application.
i always use 30 wt in all my small engines from my 1966 briggs and stratton snow blower to all my lawn mowers and they all run perfect
i was a baby when my snow blower was built but all these years later it still runs good with the only thing i did mechanically was replace the points which turned to dust with electronic ignition
pennzoil 30w
i was a baby when my snow blower was built but all these years later it still runs good with the only thing i did mechanically was replace the points which turned to dust with electronic ignition
pennzoil 30w
Rotella 10W30(semisyn?) is the way to go.... I use syn in everything else but Rotella seems to work great in all my lawn equipment/snowblower... The Kawasaki 22HP engine loves it.
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Honda HRX
1st year - Honda red bottle of oil that came with it - I think 10-30
2nd year - Rotella 15w-40 (left over from motorcycle oil change)
3rd year - Rotella 5w-40 synthetic also motorcycle left over
Last year - Amsoil 20w-50 synthetic also left over from one of the motorcycle oil changes.
This spring, usually May, when I changes oils in the motorcycles, I'll use the leftover (unused) again for the HRX mower. All I have now is Rotela 5w-40 and Amsoil 20w-50. I'll use either or might do a mix. Won't know until I get around to the motorcycles then the Honda mower for unused leftover oil.
I'm not picky when it comes to the mower - I'll use whatever I have left to keep from having another gallon jug stored with just a little oil in it. Fresh oil fill in the bikes and mower and I'm good for a year. None get low during the year to where I have to add oil... so far.
1st year - Honda red bottle of oil that came with it - I think 10-30
2nd year - Rotella 15w-40 (left over from motorcycle oil change)
3rd year - Rotella 5w-40 synthetic also motorcycle left over
Last year - Amsoil 20w-50 synthetic also left over from one of the motorcycle oil changes.
This spring, usually May, when I changes oils in the motorcycles, I'll use the leftover (unused) again for the HRX mower. All I have now is Rotela 5w-40 and Amsoil 20w-50. I'll use either or might do a mix. Won't know until I get around to the motorcycles then the Honda mower for unused leftover oil.
I'm not picky when it comes to the mower - I'll use whatever I have left to keep from having another gallon jug stored with just a little oil in it. Fresh oil fill in the bikes and mower and I'm good for a year. None get low during the year to where I have to add oil... so far.
In the heated ope, the difference in "splashing" due to viscosity is veeery small. The 100 C 5w40 is splashing just as well as the sae30.
When starting up cold, it may very well be so that a 10w30 or a 5w40 splashes better and sooner due to the better cold properties.
I can only think of two things that may severely hurt the ope and that is really thick oil, like an old sae30, in the winter OR a really thin oil in hot summer, like a sheared, fuel diluted 5w20 or something.
I prefer the manual's oil recommendation, but I frequently use like 10w30, 5w40 and even leftover 15w50 from volvo penta.
So I think that your good synth 10w30 meets recommendations: It is a 30 weight when hot and is (probably) better than a real straight 30 when cold.
When starting up cold, it may very well be so that a 10w30 or a 5w40 splashes better and sooner due to the better cold properties.
I can only think of two things that may severely hurt the ope and that is really thick oil, like an old sae30, in the winter OR a really thin oil in hot summer, like a sheared, fuel diluted 5w20 or something.
I prefer the manual's oil recommendation, but I frequently use like 10w30, 5w40 and even leftover 15w50 from volvo penta.
So I think that your good synth 10w30 meets recommendations: It is a 30 weight when hot and is (probably) better than a real straight 30 when cold.
Originally Posted By: lars11
In the heated ope, the difference in "splashing" due to viscosity is veeery small. The 100 C 5w40 is splashing just as well as the sae30.
When starting up cold, it may very well be so that a 10w30 or a 5w40 splashes better and sooner due to the better cold properties.
I can only think of two things that may severely hurt the ope and that is really thick oil, like an old sae30, in the winter OR a really thin oil in hot summer, like a sheared, fuel diluted 5w20 or something.
I prefer the manual's oil recommendation, but I frequently use like 10w30, 5w40 and even leftover 15w50 from volvo penta.
So I think that your good synth 10w30 meets recommendations: It is a 30 weight when hot and is (probably) better than a real straight 30 when cold.
If I was to use a good synthetic 10w-30 a thick cut 30wt would be my choice. Given temp 65F-88F I'd take the Delo400 SAE 30W over the Delo400 10w-30. The Delo400 10w-30 didn't cut it after 10hrs of usage with 25hrs OCI. Engines may differ of course. These engines are from commercial usage which easily reaches in the thousands of hours. Home usage can't be compared to commercial usage.
In the heated ope, the difference in "splashing" due to viscosity is veeery small. The 100 C 5w40 is splashing just as well as the sae30.
When starting up cold, it may very well be so that a 10w30 or a 5w40 splashes better and sooner due to the better cold properties.
I can only think of two things that may severely hurt the ope and that is really thick oil, like an old sae30, in the winter OR a really thin oil in hot summer, like a sheared, fuel diluted 5w20 or something.
I prefer the manual's oil recommendation, but I frequently use like 10w30, 5w40 and even leftover 15w50 from volvo penta.
So I think that your good synth 10w30 meets recommendations: It is a 30 weight when hot and is (probably) better than a real straight 30 when cold.
If I was to use a good synthetic 10w-30 a thick cut 30wt would be my choice. Given temp 65F-88F I'd take the Delo400 SAE 30W over the Delo400 10w-30. The Delo400 10w-30 didn't cut it after 10hrs of usage with 25hrs OCI. Engines may differ of course. These engines are from commercial usage which easily reaches in the thousands of hours. Home usage can't be compared to commercial usage.
in those temp ranges - PYB 30W - no question about it
I'm in the process of prepping my equipment for spring, just changed the oil in my 25 HP Diesel with M1 HD Diesel and Turbo truck (sp) and am about to go to work on my 19 hp Cub Cadet with a Kohler engine. What do you think on using the 10W-40 M1 in the Kohler? Since it is a diesel oil and all but the Kohler is air cooled and sees some long use in Hot VA summers?
10-30 was the manual recomendation for the L head Briggs in my 5KW generator. I switched to Mobil 1 10-30. The engine uses very little, compared to the former dino stuff and makes for easy starting in cold weather. One can never tell when a genny might be needed. Splash lube systems are probably more inclined to shear a multigrade than pump systems. The synthetics are more resistant to shear.
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I have used M1 TDT in 6HP OHV Briggs applications with great success, it burned much less than 30wt or 10w30. With straight 30HD or 10w30 I would have to top off a couple of times a summer.
On my Honda mower I use 10w30 dino, works fine.
On my Honda mower I use 10w30 dino, works fine.
Im thinking about running the rotella t6 in my cub cadet Kohler that calls for 10w30. I use to run the t6 in my air cooled quad and it seemed to like it.
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What about this Amsoil ASE? It's considered both a 30wt, as well as a 10W-30 and is approved/designed for ope.
Originally Posted By: 3311
I'm using a 50/50 mix of Supertech 5w20 and Supertech 15w40. Gives me a very cheap but stout(thickish and boosted add pack) 10w30. I'm just getting to cheap to run a synthetic for only about 50 hours.
Are these not dino oils beiinge mixed together ?
How do you feel this "mix" performs - better than a direct 10W-30 out of the bottle ?
Are you seeing better cold starts and better fuel economy ?
I'm using a 50/50 mix of Supertech 5w20 and Supertech 15w40. Gives me a very cheap but stout(thickish and boosted add pack) 10w30. I'm just getting to cheap to run a synthetic for only about 50 hours.
Are these not dino oils beiinge mixed together ?
How do you feel this "mix" performs - better than a direct 10W-30 out of the bottle ?
Are you seeing better cold starts and better fuel economy ?
Originally Posted By: atc250r
What about this Amsoil ASE? It's considered both a 30wt, as well as a 10W-30 and is approved/designed for ope.
Great oil, I run it in my Onan generator on my rv. I reserve it for engines that would cost more to replace. My yard small engines just get whatever is leftover.
What about this Amsoil ASE? It's considered both a 30wt, as well as a 10W-30 and is approved/designed for ope.
Great oil, I run it in my Onan generator on my rv. I reserve it for engines that would cost more to replace. My yard small engines just get whatever is leftover.
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