How to clean engine after removing heavy sludge?

[BEB123]

Hi - newcomer here - I have a recently-purchased 1995 Saab 900 2.3 non-turbo with 125k miles. The timing chain was making noise so I opened the valve cover to take a look and found a heavy coating of black gunk that was up to 3/4" or more thick in some areas. I removed the caked on stuff by chipping away at it and vacuuming the bits up, then used a toothbrush with mineral spirits, rags, and compressed air to clean much of the rest. While I was as careful as I could be, I'm sure that some stuff fell into the engine, and I've certainly loosened up a lot of stuff that will circulate around. What's the best way to clean this out so I don't get any clogged passages?

I've drained the oil pan and am going to drop it out to clean the gunk that's certainly to be in it. My plan is to turn the engine a few times by hand to get any last bits out, dump some more mineral spirits thru to rinse, then button it up and refill with cheap oil. Run for a few minutes, then drain and change oil and filter. Then what?? Should I run any additives (Seafoam?). What sort of oil should I use after?

For a video see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4lpGelO7...mp;feature=plcp

Thanks!

 

[spasm3]

Normally i don't use many additives but i think some 5w 40 oil and some mmo for a short 1000k run might be the trick, change filter at 500 miles.

 

[Audios]

Seafoam works pretty well, but it seems likeyou get less for the money, 16oz or so when the CRC/Napa product gives you a quart. Go with a can of that as a flush, dump and fill with PYB or another high detergent, do a short interval and dump again.

 

[JHZR2]

I'd just go sequential oil changes with an HDEO cut with MMO or kreen.

Id definitely drop the pan to clean down there first.

Try to go to a farm store or similar where you can find the oil in 2.5gal jugs. While wasteful, a few short intervals with very light load (like Im thinking for the first one, just drive very light to get it up to temperature then dump it) should get anything that is going to be taken out, removed.

 

[Highline9]

Maybe run a good mechanical oil pressure gauge. Then if filter starts to clog you will catch it before it causes damage. Read up on oil additives such as mmo,kreen,seafoam ect. Good luck keep us posted.

 

[Clevy]

K. I would be concerned about clumps and chunks blocking oil galleries and the pick up screen.
I would buy one of those engine flush products. Something very strong and new oil. Now drain the oil. Add new oil and the flush. Most of those flush's tell you not to drive so don't. Let the engine circulate the flushing fluid around for the recommended time. Drain the oil. Now do it again with new oil. You are trying to dissolve all the chunks to eliminate the screen getting clogged up. After the second flush buy pyb and run it for 500 miles as is,then add a can of seafoam. Run that for 1000 miles. Drain. Then go with PU for 3000miles. Then seafoam again for 500-1000 miles the PU for the rest of ownership.
Flushing the oil twice will dissolve any big chunks and for me add some peace of mind.
You will get many opinions. Do whatever you feel comfortable with.

 

[Joe72Mart]

Welcome to BITOG!

All the postings are excellent advice. Perhaps after initial cleanings and frequent oil changes, a high quality synthetic like Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra will complete the job.

 

[JAG]

I'm in the minority in saying that the last thing I'd use is anything that cleans quickly. I wouldn't go for quick cleaning until after you later possibly verify that using good conventional oil (ex. Pennzoil yellow bottle) for short oil change intervals are not clogging the oil pickup screen, oil filter or anything else you can see from opening the top end again. That might not do much cleaning. If not, no harm. If it does, you can step it up by using a better cleaning oil and/or add solvents. Some good deeds like cleaning heavily sludged engines put engines in junkyards so be careful.

 

[Durango]

Originally Posted By: BEB123
Hi - newcomer here - I have a recently-purchased 1995 Saab 900 2.3 non-turbo with 125k miles. The timing chain was making noise so I opened the valve cover to take a look and found a heavy coating of black gunk that was up to 3/4" or more thick in some areas. I removed the caked on stuff by chipping away at it and vacuuming the bits up, then used a toothbrush with mineral spirits, rags, and compressed air to clean much of the rest. While I was as careful as I could be, I'm sure that some stuff fell into the engine, and I've certainly loosened up a lot of stuff that will circulate around. What's the best way to clean this out so I don't get any clogged passages?

I've drained the oil pan and am going to drop it out to clean the gunk that's certainly to be in it. My plan is to turn the engine a few times by hand to get any last bits out, dump some more mineral spirits thru to rinse, then button it up and refill with cheap oil. Run for a few minutes, then drain and change oil and filter. Then what?? Should I run any additives (Seafoam?). What sort of oil should I use after?

For a video see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4lpGelO7...mp;feature=plcp

Thanks!


If it were my car I'd clean it up as much as possible and then have the engine flushed really well and fill with a good synthetic like Pennzoil to help clean the gnine further along with a good filter.

Durango

 

[ZZman]

That is some serious crud and varnish.

With the engine wide open like that you might go buy a gallon or 2 of kerosene. Drain the oil and put the plug back in. Pour a gallon of Kerosene inside there and let it sit for a few hours or so to dissovle any crud. Drain that out. Do the same thing again.

Then run a good high detergent oil like Pennzoil Yellow bottle for a few shorter than normal oil changes.

 

[dlafoy]

If it was my car I would button that puppy back up and slowly back away from the vehicle, then kneel to one knee and start "Tebowing" like there was no tomorrow !

 

[ktrsb]

Originally Posted By: ZZman
With the engine wide open like that you might go buy a gallon or 2 of kerosene. Drain the oil and put the plug back in. Pour a gallon of Kerosene inside there and let it sit for a few hours or so to dissovle any crud. Drain that out. Do the same thing again.


+1, but overnight. Better yet, pull the pan and make sure the pickup tube is clean. Service the PCV system (check the cost on all new parts, esp dirty air hoses), clean the valve cover (if you can remove the PCV baffles, do so), make sure AF is stock and new, and short, short OCIs.

 

[nleksan]

Good quality synthetic (PP/PU, Redline, Royal Purple, etc), 5k mile OCI's, change oil filter every 1-2k miles depending on visual inspection. Continue until the filter stays relatively clean through 5k miles (might take 15-20k), THEN you can go ahead and try a small amount of MMO for a shorter period of time to make sure it doesn't dislodge/harm anything (say, 10-15% of total oil capacity for 500 miles). Then step it up to 15% for 1k miles, then 20% for 1k miles.

If a "harsher" cleaner is needed, I personally would recommend Seafoam.
Start by doing 2/3 of a can through intake manifold (you can use their spray product, "Deep Creep", as it is identical to the regular stuff).
Begin by spraying some down the throttle body throat and then scrub the TB clean (with the car off; having someone to manipulate the gas pedal helps clean both sides of the TB plate; toothbrush with stiff bristles works great). Reconnect everything and start the car, you may get a bit of a smoke show.
Then with the car running do 1/3 of a can through the Brake Booster Line, and as soon as the last bit gets "sucked up", IMMEDIATELY shut off car and follow directions (let soak for at least 20 minutes, a few hours isn't bad, then start up the car and either vary RPM's or go for a drive until all smoke stops). Then, do the same thing but through the PCV valve, if easily accessible (turn off, let soak, etc). This will make sure the intake manifold is evenly cleaned, at least as much as possible.
Put 1/3 to 1 can into your gas tank while at the gas station just prior to filling up, so that it mixes well. This helps clean injectors, intake/exhaust valves, combustion chambers, fuel lines, etc.
IF YOU WANT TO USE IT IN YOUR OIL:
- Start with maybe 4-6oz in the crankcase, go for a 100mile highway drive, then come home, park, turn off car and immediately dump the oil. I don't use it in my oil except MAYBE putting 2-4oz total split between oil fill cap and dipstick (or just oil fill cap) immediately before an oil change, then letting the car idle for 10-20mins, then turning off and immediately draining the oil. Works well on my Camry, which has a tendency to sludge.

Redline SI-1 is also a great Fuel Injector Cleaner, probably THE BEST due to being ~50% PEA. Run it regularly.

That's my opinion... SLOW AND STEADY. Work your way up to "additives".