List of Non-Interference cars and engines, gauges

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Just read about a Non-Interference engine, and how it can survive a timing belt snap vs an Interference engine, which most are, and cant.

Can anyone name all the Non-Interference cars/engines they can think of? I rather like that benefit.

Also, for a separate list, can anyone name all the cars and cars/trucks/engines that come with a factory Oil pressure gauge, instead of having to figure out weird ways to go add one and ask the shop what they want to do? Thanks!
 
Gates' website and catalog used to have a list, that's where I would look. Many, if not most, vehicles with an oil pressure gauge aren't very accurate anyway.
 
Generally, any modern engine will be an interference engine. The interference is the result of higher compression, longer valve travel, and more valve overlap...all of which lead to better combustion, efficiency and MPG....
 
+1 on the Gates look-up chart. The last non-crasher belt drives I know of were Ford Ranger 2.2/2.5's. There's not many non-interference engines built in the last decade.

I couldn't tell you the last time I saw an oil pressure gauge stock in a car. Trucks/SUVs, yes.

Joel
 
I'll agree with factory OP gauges being pretty useless, other than to point out major issues. At hot idle, my actual pressure is in the low 20s, gauge reads 30. Revved up hot, or just off-idle on a cold start, it has about 60psi, but the gauge never goes over 45. I've seen other Jeeps with 4.0s where the gauges seem a bit more accurate (will move up to 55 - 60), but I've never checked one of those against a mech gauge.
 
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I'll agree with factory OP gauges being pretty useless, other than to point out major issues. At hot idle, my actual pressure is in the low 20s, gauge reads 30. Revved up hot, or just off-idle on a cold start, it has about 60psi, but the gauge never goes over 45. I've seen other Jeeps with 4.0s where the gauges seem a bit more accurate (will move up to 55 - 60), but I've never checked one of those against a mech gauge.


Appreciated. But if you put in a thinner oil like a 5W-20 to see what it would do, would the gauge change?

Or would you never do that... kicking around ideas here.
 
The only factory OP gauge that I've seen make sense is the one in my '93 GMC, it actually registers the bypass pressure of 60-ish PSI with cold dino SAE 30, then will drop to 20-25 PSI at a hot idle. The others, especially all the Ford ones, just show some random meaningless level between L and H that never seems to change when the engine is running-might as well be an idiot light!
 
Some vehicles, like my 2007 Frontier, have an oil pressure gauge in the dash but it is just another version of an idiot light. As long as the pressure is within some predetermined value range, the needle stays right in the middle of the gauge. Apparently, from what I have read, Nissan did this after getting complaints that the pressure was changing during engine warmup, etc. Just shows that many are not able to understand the simple dynamics of engine performance.
 
Im thinking of a 2002-2006 or possibly 2007 "Classic appearnce" GMC Yukon XL Denali with either the 6.0 or 6.2L engine, and im wondering how the pressure gauge is on that. Or, a 2007 6.2L New one.. and the OP gauge on it.

I have seen some people with 2002 Tahoes and their oil pressure gauge "Failed High." 120PSI!!
 
Toyota 2JZGE is non interference if it doesn't have vvti
Toyota 1MZFE same. Those I know so sure.
45ACP, check Beast Camry thread, I answered you questions.
 
My MBs all have factory gauges, they just peg out after they reach a certain pressure, but that's ok with me.
 
I will go one step further for the timing belt. If it has a belt I will pass. I want a chain.

But seeing the engine listed as a non-interference engine should not change the maint. schedule for the timing belt.

I think dash oil pressure gauges are MUCH better than an idiot light, but not as good as a mechanical gauge. Just assume they are +/- 10 lbs. That should be accurate enough for most people. You have a street car, not a race car.
 
My take is belt come first, then chain would be my second choice.

(*BTW: I get to inspect/service all seals, idler tensioner bearings, water pumps, etc. whenever I perform a belt change, not so much on the chain tensioner guide for chain type*)

Q.
 
I know for new cars the list is getting very small.

I think subaru eventually replaced all/most engines with interference engines sometime between 2000 to 2010.
 
That's another good point. An interference classification doesn't necessarily mean it's going to crash on a belt toss. I know the 1998-2004 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 was called interference, but I've read of owners loosing T-belts on them w/out issue.

Joel
 
Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Appreciated. But if you put in a thinner oil like a 5W-20 to see what it would do, would the gauge change?

Or would you never do that... kicking around ideas here.


I did run some MMO in it once, as well as trying a 5W-30 once. The gauge reacted a bit differently as far as increasing from idle, but still showed dead on 30 at hot idle and never went above 45.
 
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