any body used this to make stuff slippery and prevent rust. Lanolin based and bio-degradable? sounds sorta like auto RX. I think it is used on farms and the oil patch. It doesnt freeze. TIA
Last edited:
fluid film ?
- Thread starter andyd
- Start date
- Status
Sure do use it, I buy it at my local John Deere dealer. Never ever dries, its wool grease aka lanolin. Nope it never freezes. Not sure what Auto RX is tho.
It's good stuff but a little pricey
I undercoated my truck and mower with it and use it everywhere. I have it in bulk and in aerosol. Makes a good handcleaner as well, it also works on boots.
About $36USD/gal. Smells good.
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Excellent lubricant.It will stop squeaks nothing else will.The smell annoys me though.
Like a wet sheep? I buy it by the five gallon pail.
Excellent lubricant.It will stop squeaks nothing else will.The smell annoys me though.
Like a wet sheep? I buy it by the five gallon pail.
For you guys who have used it on a new car. How well does it hold up under a vehicle if it is touched up every year? Will it keep rust at bay if applied to a rust-free surface and maintained, even in a salty environment?
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
For you guys who have used it on a new car. How well does it hold up under a vehicle if it is touched up every year? Will it keep rust at bay if applied to a rust-free surface and maintained, even in a salty environment?
It works well. I purchased a 2011 ranger last year and sprayed a thick layer on it. The layer is still there 1 year later. In hot weather the product thins out and creeps more. I sprayed the inside of the doors, hood leading edge and front fenders. I have been cleaning off these areas as it creeps out.
Living close to the coast there is plenty of salt air and on the rare occassion that it does snow, the roads get coated in the typical salt and sand mix.
For you guys who have used it on a new car. How well does it hold up under a vehicle if it is touched up every year? Will it keep rust at bay if applied to a rust-free surface and maintained, even in a salty environment?
It works well. I purchased a 2011 ranger last year and sprayed a thick layer on it. The layer is still there 1 year later. In hot weather the product thins out and creeps more. I sprayed the inside of the doors, hood leading edge and front fenders. I have been cleaning off these areas as it creeps out.
Living close to the coast there is plenty of salt air and on the rare occassion that it does snow, the roads get coated in the typical salt and sand mix.
Last edited by a moderator:
Now for the next question. Would you use a little in the oil to slow clean sludge? Actually, so far fluid film soumds like linseed oil which seals airtight. No air, no rust
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
For you guys who have used it on a new car. How well does it hold up under a vehicle if it is touched up every year? Will it keep rust at bay if applied to a rust-free surface and maintained, even in a salty environment?
It works well. I purchased a 2011 ranger last year and sprayed a thick layer on it. The layer is still there 1 year later. In hot weather the product thins out and creeps more. I sprayed the inside of the doors, hood leading edge and front fenders. I have been cleaning off these areas as it creeps out.
Living close to the coast there is plenty of salt air and on the rare occassion that it does snow, the roads get coated in the typical salt and sand mix.
Thanks. How bad was the smell inside the doors? Does it collect dirt on the under carriage kicked up from the tires?
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
For you guys who have used it on a new car. How well does it hold up under a vehicle if it is touched up every year? Will it keep rust at bay if applied to a rust-free surface and maintained, even in a salty environment?
It works well. I purchased a 2011 ranger last year and sprayed a thick layer on it. The layer is still there 1 year later. In hot weather the product thins out and creeps more. I sprayed the inside of the doors, hood leading edge and front fenders. I have been cleaning off these areas as it creeps out.
Living close to the coast there is plenty of salt air and on the rare occassion that it does snow, the roads get coated in the typical salt and sand mix.
Thanks. How bad was the smell inside the doors? Does it collect dirt on the under carriage kicked up from the tires?
Originally Posted By: andyd
Now for the next question. Would you use a little in the oil to slow clean sludge?
No. There are plenty of products on the market that can be used for that without "testing" fluid film. Fluid film doesn't suggest it should be used inside the engine so why try. If you look at their website or their videos, if they thought it would work I am sure they would try and sell it as a engine cleaner.
Now for the next question. Would you use a little in the oil to slow clean sludge?
No. There are plenty of products on the market that can be used for that without "testing" fluid film. Fluid film doesn't suggest it should be used inside the engine so why try. If you look at their website or their videos, if they thought it would work I am sure they would try and sell it as a engine cleaner.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Thanks. How bad was the smell inside the doors? Does it collect dirt on the under carriage kicked up from the tires?
It really did not smell inside the cab. I have used this on other vehicles as well. However outside the car/truck it smells for a while. The original smells (which I like) wears off and to me started to smell more like some type of rotting organic material (which I did not like).
They call it dusting but yes it will accumulate dirt/dust until the dirt accumulation is equal basicly everywhere. Its not an issue unles you stick your hand in some of course. Its a bit like having a car with an oil leak that slowly coats everything. Except in this case it was intentional. Fluid film will not harm the wiring harness or connectors .
Thanks. How bad was the smell inside the doors? Does it collect dirt on the under carriage kicked up from the tires?
It really did not smell inside the cab. I have used this on other vehicles as well. However outside the car/truck it smells for a while. The original smells (which I like) wears off and to me started to smell more like some type of rotting organic material (which I did not like).
They call it dusting but yes it will accumulate dirt/dust until the dirt accumulation is equal basicly everywhere. Its not an issue unles you stick your hand in some of course. Its a bit like having a car with an oil leak that slowly coats everything. Except in this case it was intentional. Fluid film will not harm the wiring harness or connectors .
^^Thanks for the info.^^ Do you touch it up on a yearly basis, or check it and touch it up when needed? I used Amsoil HD Metal Protector, it worked well but did smell for quite a while. Next time I plan on using Fluid Film. I think Fluid Film is a little more forgiving if it comes in contact with plastic or rubber. JMO
Originally Posted By: andyd
Now for the next question. Would you use a little in the oil to slow clean sludge? Actually, so far fluid film soumds like linseed oil which seals airtight. No air, no rust
Wool Grease, as in lanolin not linseed oil. Wood I use it in the engine, AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh NO!
Now for the next question. Would you use a little in the oil to slow clean sludge? Actually, so far fluid film soumds like linseed oil which seals airtight. No air, no rust
Wool Grease, as in lanolin not linseed oil. Wood I use it in the engine, AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh NO!
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
^^Thanks for the info.^^ Do you touch it up on a yearly basis, or check it and touch it up when needed? I used Amsoil HD Metal Protector, it worked well but did smell for quite a while. Next time I plan on using Fluid Film. I think Fluid Film is a little more forgiving if it comes in contact with plastic or rubber. JMO
I touch it up as needed. The front cross member gets touched up often due to it collecting water internally and I drive the truck thru tall grass moving hay and various items I may need to haul behind my place. I drive my trucks thru tall grass and weeds fairly often and of course dirt and mud along the way as well. The majority of the truck looks good now but I did pickup some hay about 2 weeks ago. I have worn most of the paint off of the cross member already so I will touch it up next weekend when I do an oil change and tire rotation. The frame and panels are fairly well protected unless you power wash it off. Then you will need to reapply.
I use metal protector HD as well. Once dry its more of a wax. Fluid film since it stays wet will heal a spot that is brushed off where as mphd will not.
^^Thanks for the info.^^ Do you touch it up on a yearly basis, or check it and touch it up when needed? I used Amsoil HD Metal Protector, it worked well but did smell for quite a while. Next time I plan on using Fluid Film. I think Fluid Film is a little more forgiving if it comes in contact with plastic or rubber. JMO
I touch it up as needed. The front cross member gets touched up often due to it collecting water internally and I drive the truck thru tall grass moving hay and various items I may need to haul behind my place. I drive my trucks thru tall grass and weeds fairly often and of course dirt and mud along the way as well. The majority of the truck looks good now but I did pickup some hay about 2 weeks ago. I have worn most of the paint off of the cross member already so I will touch it up next weekend when I do an oil change and tire rotation. The frame and panels are fairly well protected unless you power wash it off. Then you will need to reapply.
I use metal protector HD as well. Once dry its more of a wax. Fluid film since it stays wet will heal a spot that is brushed off where as mphd will not.
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
^^Thanks for the info.^^ Do you touch it up on a yearly basis, or check it and touch it up when needed? I used Amsoil HD Metal Protector, it worked well but did smell for quite a while. Next time I plan on using Fluid Film. I think Fluid Film is a little more forgiving if it comes in contact with plastic or rubber. JMO
I touch it up as needed. The front cross member gets touched up often due to it collecting water internally and I drive the truck thru tall grass moving hay and various items I may need to haul behind my place. I drive my trucks thru tall grass and weeds fairly often and of course dirt and mud along the way as well. The majority of the truck looks good now but I did pickup some hay about 2 weeks ago. I have worn most of the paint off of the cross member already so I will touch it up next weekend when I do an oil change and tire rotation. The frame and panels are fairly well protected unless you power wash it off. Then you will need to reapply.
I use metal protector HD as well. Once dry its more of a wax. Fluid film since it stays wet will heal a spot that is brushed off where as mphd will not.
Thanks, I'll make the switch to FF.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
^^Thanks for the info.^^ Do you touch it up on a yearly basis, or check it and touch it up when needed? I used Amsoil HD Metal Protector, it worked well but did smell for quite a while. Next time I plan on using Fluid Film. I think Fluid Film is a little more forgiving if it comes in contact with plastic or rubber. JMO
I touch it up as needed. The front cross member gets touched up often due to it collecting water internally and I drive the truck thru tall grass moving hay and various items I may need to haul behind my place. I drive my trucks thru tall grass and weeds fairly often and of course dirt and mud along the way as well. The majority of the truck looks good now but I did pickup some hay about 2 weeks ago. I have worn most of the paint off of the cross member already so I will touch it up next weekend when I do an oil change and tire rotation. The frame and panels are fairly well protected unless you power wash it off. Then you will need to reapply.
I use metal protector HD as well. Once dry its more of a wax. Fluid film since it stays wet will heal a spot that is brushed off where as mphd will not.
Thanks, I'll make the switch to FF.
TnN, curious as to how to spray apply it.
There are allot of options, you can use the aerosol cans and they have a flexable extension wand that is sold by kellsport. I however built one out of a seafoam intake wand for free. I also apply bulk, you can use a brush or a air gun. I have the gun from kellsport and this gun from eastwood. I was going to try it on my mower but found I did not have the correct fitting for this gun. I used the kellsport gun again in its place. According to this thread on TBN you can use a pressurized paint gun. I may purchase one and give it a try. For spraying thin even coats I would think heated FF sprayed through a pressurized paint gun would be best. I actually prefer to apply it thick and let it creep and thin itself over time. I am going to pick up the correct fitting for my eastwood gun and use it this weekend.
I forgot I also have the rigid extension wand for the eastwood gun to help with the bed sides. I really do need to test it out this weekend.
I forgot I also have the rigid extension wand for the eastwood gun to help with the bed sides. I really do need to test it out this weekend.
Last edited by a moderator:
I finally tried out my Eastwood gun this weekend and I would have to agree with this review from Eastwoods site:
Quote:
I used this to spray my Subie with Fluid Film. It worked perfectly. Adjustable flow with the gun tip by turning in or out, it will spray very little to drowning your work piece. Same applies to both hoses. The hose with the 180' tip is actually about 30 inches and sprays a decent fog. I was worried that the hose being almost a 1/2 " diameter i wouldnt be able to get it into alot of holes without drilling but was surprised as it fit into many holes in crossmembers and brackets. I did end up drilling some holes in doors but plugged them with plastic body plugs and it looks factory. Fluid Film is the sort of the consistency of latex paint and I sprayed with my air pressure at 120 as I did'nt think to turn it down. Both hoses do come formed in a loop from being in the bag but I used a heat gun and was able to pretty much get them to straighten out. Only minor issue I had was having to switch between hoses and tip (threading on/off) but it has good smooth threading and was'nt a big deal. I recommend it
This gun is very good but the wands are thick. I started at 60 psi and turned it up to 80 psi when I was using the wands. Looks like 100+ maybe a better way to go. I was not impressed with the ridged wand, perhaps I just needed more pressure to make it more effective. I will have to test it.
If you are shooting a unibody car and do not want or need the 90 degree hose I would use a pressurized paint gun. With either gun I would build or purchase a wand attachment for the aerosol cans and use those for the doors, hood and trunk rather then drill. Rust typically starts at the bottom where water collects. I snake my wand in and spray allong the seam. The straw from the new spray seafoam was easy to modify for this purpose and is reasonally long. Mine is at least 18 inches. I slide it thru the drip holes and spray as I draw it out, move to the next drip hole and repeat in each direction. Fluid film will creep out around the holes and accumulate dust which you will have to clean off. If Fluid Film is at least room temp it will also mix and spray allot better. Spraying during summer will help it flow and creep quite a bit.
Quote:
I used this to spray my Subie with Fluid Film. It worked perfectly. Adjustable flow with the gun tip by turning in or out, it will spray very little to drowning your work piece. Same applies to both hoses. The hose with the 180' tip is actually about 30 inches and sprays a decent fog. I was worried that the hose being almost a 1/2 " diameter i wouldnt be able to get it into alot of holes without drilling but was surprised as it fit into many holes in crossmembers and brackets. I did end up drilling some holes in doors but plugged them with plastic body plugs and it looks factory. Fluid Film is the sort of the consistency of latex paint and I sprayed with my air pressure at 120 as I did'nt think to turn it down. Both hoses do come formed in a loop from being in the bag but I used a heat gun and was able to pretty much get them to straighten out. Only minor issue I had was having to switch between hoses and tip (threading on/off) but it has good smooth threading and was'nt a big deal. I recommend it
This gun is very good but the wands are thick. I started at 60 psi and turned it up to 80 psi when I was using the wands. Looks like 100+ maybe a better way to go. I was not impressed with the ridged wand, perhaps I just needed more pressure to make it more effective. I will have to test it.
If you are shooting a unibody car and do not want or need the 90 degree hose I would use a pressurized paint gun. With either gun I would build or purchase a wand attachment for the aerosol cans and use those for the doors, hood and trunk rather then drill. Rust typically starts at the bottom where water collects. I snake my wand in and spray allong the seam. The straw from the new spray seafoam was easy to modify for this purpose and is reasonally long. Mine is at least 18 inches. I slide it thru the drip holes and spray as I draw it out, move to the next drip hole and repeat in each direction. Fluid film will creep out around the holes and accumulate dust which you will have to clean off. If Fluid Film is at least room temp it will also mix and spray allot better. Spraying during summer will help it flow and creep quite a bit.
- Status
