Oil for LS1 HPDE car

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FASTFATBOY

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Mar 17, 2008
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Mobile Ala
I have a 99 Z28 with a new engine in it, a stock LS6, I broke it in on Shell Rotella 15-40 for 500 miles then switched to Royal Purple 10-30.

I don't run events in the summer, only the cooler months. This is a fully dressed streetcar that sees between 6000-6300 rpms on a DE, I dont shift much as on most tracks I leave it in 4th and only go down to 3rd as needed.

No oil cooler, stock thermostat.

Stick with the Royal Purple? I have read a lot about Mobile 1 being death for these engines, a rod bearing killer.

What about Wal Marts Super Tech Synthetic? I change oil after every 2 events. I have read where you guys think the dino super tech is good stuff.
 
What in M1 exactly kills rod bearings? I was always under the impression that if a layer of oil is pumped into bearing clearances,no damage will be done,no matter the brand or type of motor oil (within reason).
 
I had a 01 Formula a few years ago, that was my HPDE car and One Lap of America car. Same as your car driven on the street. When on the track I drove the car to the Max. When I was racing at Las Vegas Motor speedway the car never saw less than 4000rpm(6200rpm shift point) for 3 laps on a 98 degree day. Would of love to seen the oil temps after that run. I had very good luck with Kendall 5-40. Just throwing another oil into the fight. Search my name for the UOA.
 
Is this a untouched, crate LS6 (except for the switched throttle cable TB)??

Here is another vote for M1 0W-40 (MUCH more 'stout' than their regular old 5W-30), since you are going to be changing it often.

Red Line 5W-30/0W-30/0W-40 would last more sessions, but still be very $$$ for as often as you would still have to change it.

Are you on frrax.com?
 
LS-series engines work fine on M1. I accumulated 150,000 miles on nothing but M1 5w30 since the car was new, changing oil according to the OLM. The car has accumulated ~100 track days over the years, and the engine is still quiet and oil-tight.

M1 5w30, M1 5w30 HM, or a 50/50 blend of M1 0w40/0w30 would all be better choices than ST.
 
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The type of oil does not kill LS1 bearings. Sustained left hand turns at high rpm's uncovers the pickup and starves the motor of oil. Lots of guys use a bigger filter, and fill it with 6 quarts instead of the recommended 5.5 quarts.
 
Originally Posted By: SSCamaro99_3
The type of oil does not kill LS1 bearings. Sustained left hand turns at high rpm's uncovers the pickup and starves the motor of oil. Lots of guys use a bigger filter, and fill it with 6 quarts instead of the recommended 5.5 quarts.


Some even go over 6 qts., and/or add an electrically valved Accusump, especially if they are on 315/30-17 Hoosier R6es at all four corners!!
crazy2.gif
 
True. I just was going into the real extreme stuff. I think you can run 6.5 quarts safely, but I would have to check. BTW I am using the same filter and Amsoil 10W-40
 
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I have read a lot on Mobil 1 not liking LS1's in extreme duty situations I E autocross or trackday cars. On FRRAX.com they plainly say dont do it.

This engine is a LS1 bottom end, balanced, ARP rod bolts, Mahle Forged pistons and rings, stock rods and the entire topend off a 2003 C5 Z06 including cam. Also has an Improved Racing oil pan baffle and I run +1 quart on trackdays.

Sam Strano, a very well known multi championship winnig auto crosser in LS1 cars flat out says dont use it.

I have read a few others, Strano is enough proof for me.


BTW I am running 10-40, not 10-30.
 
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Originally Posted By: Boomer
If Mobil 1 is a "rod killer", which I doubt, why would Super Tech be any good?



Don't know unless you ask.
 
Originally Posted By: Smokefan1977
If it were my LS id go with M1 0-40, T6, Red Line 5-30, M1 5-30

M1 is not a rod bearing killer. GM is their own killer on that one



Kinda thin for a roadcourse car that will 250+* oil temps isnt it?
 
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Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Is this a untouched, crate LS6 (except for the switched throttle cable TB)??

Here is another vote for M1 0W-40 (MUCH more 'stout' than their regular old 5W-30), since you are going to be changing it often.

Red Line 5W-30/0W-30/0W-40 would last more sessions, but still be very $$$ for as often as you would still have to change it.

Are you on frrax.com?


Yes I am on FRRAX.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: SSCamaro99_3
The type of oil does not kill LS1 bearings. Sustained left hand turns at high rpm's uncovers the pickup and starves the motor of oil. Lots of guys use a bigger filter, and fill it with 6 quarts instead of the recommended 5.5 quarts.


Some even go over 6 qts., and/or add an electrically valved Accusump, especially if they are on 315/30-17 Hoosier R6es at all four corners!!
crazy2.gif



I run 1/2-qt over full during track days, so I subscribe to the 6.0-quart school of thought. I tried running 6.5 quarts, but was getting oil carryover into the intake, and fogged the pits for mosquitos on the next startup!

I don't think using a bigger filter will help. If the oil pickup starts sucking air in long left-hand turns, the pump loses the ability to push oil through the system. At that point in time, it won't matter if you have 1/4 or 1/2 quart in the filter, the oil flow just stops. Then it becomes a race against time between re-establishing oil pressure and the residual oil film burning out of the rod bearings. It is in these situations that having an Accusump is good. Otherwise, a thicker oil will give maybe a second or two more protection than a thinner oil.
 
Originally Posted By: FASTFATBOY
Sam Strano, a very well known multi championship winnig auto crosser in LS1 cars flat out says dont use it.

I have read a few others, Strano is enough proof for me.



Yes, I know that Sam (as well as most other frrax.com members), is a fervent believer in RL products.

Do you run the NT-05s for open tracking, or do you switch to something stickier??
Koni double-adjustable coilover conversions or Strano (Vogtland) springs?
UMI double adjustable Roto-jointed LCRs & PHB??? UMI k-member & a-arms?
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: FASTFATBOY
Sam Strano, a very well known multi championship winnig auto crosser in LS1 cars flat out says dont use it.

I have read a few others, Strano is enough proof for me.



Yes, I know that Sam (as well as most other frrax.com members), is a fervent believer in RL products.

Do you run the NT-05s for open tracking, or do you switch to something stickier??
Koni double-adjustable coilover conversions or Strano (Vogtland) springs?
UMI double adjustable Roto-jointed LCRs & PHB??? UMI k-member & a-arms?


I run the NT-05 for trackdays

Strano springs, Koni DA on front SA on rear

UMI Roto joints in rear)all)

Stock K member and A arms in front with all Moog bushings and ball joints.

KORE3 C6 front brakes, Blaine Fab cooling ducts

1LE front swaybar, stock rear bar.
 
COOL!

My suspension is the same save for; GC/Eibach (650# in.) coilover conversion on my front DAs (Sam had not yet released his linear rate springs when I did this
frown.gif
), Strano front bar with UMI billet alloy bushing brackets, 1LE rear bar, Strano rear springs (also with SAs in back, and I used to have the GC weight jacker system, but did not like it, so I convinced Sam to sell me just his rear springs), stock brakes (for now), and an old, Random Tech adjustable torque arm (used to be Sam's fave TA way back when).

I plan on using Toyo R888s for open tracking next, but NOT before I upgrade those front brakes!!
31.gif


Are you on the stock T2 diff, or did you get a T2R?? (I have an Eaton Posi.)
 
I am on the stock diff, I am now loading where it will spin the right rear on tight right handers.

I was told by an instructor he had never seen an F Body turn like a Miata. until he rode in mine LMAO.
 
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