ZDDP attitive in a IH 444?

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Evening gentlemen.

Would it be practical to add ZDDP attitive to the oil of a International 444 gasoline tractor? We usually run a 30W oil such as Rotella or Havoline. For the winter, I'm running Maxilfe blend 10W-40.

The tractor was built in the '60's. Your thoughts? Thanks!

P.S, I am not an "addititive kind of guy" but if there is a need for it, I'd consider it...
 
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If your running Rotella you are running HDEO which should have enough zinc. Like someone else said, I'd be more concerned with valve seats.
 
That engine was designed for more ZDDP than the MaxLife has in it. It's a low stress engine, and would likely be fine on MaxLife, but if it was mine, I'd just run a 10W30 HDEO or even 15W40 if that's what you prefer. Both have levels of ZDDP your engine will by happy with and are reasonably priced.

Since the subject of valve seats has been broached, let me say ... don't worry. The speed at which valve seat recession occurs is directly related to valve spring pressure and engine rpms. The C153 in your 444 is a slow revver anyway... max power at a whopping 2000 rpm. Adjust the valves a little more frequently and when the time comes, install hardened exhaust valve seats. They used to say the average loss of life was around 30 percent for a street car engine. For a tractor engine, depending on it's use, it's pretty safe to say it;s less than that.. plus some of those IH industrial engines already had hardened seats, either inserts or induction hardening, plus valve rotators. Yes, it's happening faster than it would with leaded gas but how quickly that will be a problem depends on how many hours you put on per year. Don't become a lead substitute junkie!
 
Thanks guys for all the input. I'll try to stick with Rotella oils for here on out if they have enough ZDPP for the flat tappet motor.

It is a 4 cylinder, gas motor that doesn't rev past 2000 RPM like Jim stated. I was only running Maxlife to try a "high mileage" oil in order to reduce consumption.

As far as usage goes, it may get 100-200 hours a year(rough estimate) doing a variety of tasks. It usally sits for a week-3 weeks at a time between uses though.

One reason why I don't run lead substitute, because I figured the emissions were bad enough as is....
 
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The HDEO could be considered a "high mileage oil" in a gas engine, and it already has a more robust additive package than a HM oil anyway. I think an HDEO will do as much as can be done with a fuel consumption issue.

On thing I would add to my statement on fuels above... use a fuel stabilizer like StaBil. Especially now, with ethanol based fuels, fuel degrades much more quickly than it used to and the ethanol is not kind to the tank or fuel system of older vehicles. StaBil, especially the Marine Formula StaBil, really helps avoid problems for equipment that sits around plus it has a lot of cleaning capability.
 
I clocked many an hour on an IH 424 with same engine, also about 1964 or 65 model. When leaded fuel went off the market, we used a few ounces of 2 cycle oil to fuel. We always used straight 30 grade oil in summer and 10-30 for winter snow removal. Never anything special about the oil, Esso or Exxon fleet oil or such.

Nice easy to service tractor.

prs
 
Thanks guys.

Stabil-fuel is used fairly consitently, and yes it's a great machine to service!

Would Rotella 15W-40 be a good year-round oil? Or would the 30W summer and 10W-30 winter be best?
 
If you've been running straight 30, you can run 10W30 year around. What follows is some stuff that's worked for me and may help you

You may cringe at the idea, but unless your tractor is parked outside, I would advise changing oil at 100 hour intervals (or whatever hour interval your manual says), no time limit up to two years. I have been doing that with my two tractors, verifying via UOA and it's worked pretty well. MIne being diesels, I start to run into excessive soot in the oil at around 120 hours, so that's my practical hour limit.

I use 10W30 Rotella year round in my utility tractor a Ford 2810 (switched from 15W40 one very cold winter when it wouldn't spin over fast enough to start). I will be switching over my 100 horse Farmall to it at the next OCI and have been running it in a Ford diesel pickup too.

My opinion is that 15W40 is too thick for your application. That said, if you have an oil consumption issue, it may help (my oil consumption rated have not changed going from 15W40 to 10W30).
 
Thanks Jim.

When using a 10W-30 in the past(non HDEO) it would consume it rather quickly. 30W seems to do better in that regard. It usually gets 2-3 oil changes a year depending on usage. I need to pay better attention to the hours. Rotella 10W-30 will probably be the cool weather oil then...30W in the summer.
 
Scott, I think you may find lower consumption with the 10W30 HDEO, as you did with the straight 30. I found one source that showed 100 hours for your 444, so if you do that many changes per year, you must be cranking on the hours. Is that mowing or??? That or you are a die hard recreational oil changer ( : < )... a disease not unknown to BITOGER's. Yeah, you can stop any time, right? ( : < )
 
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^ Haha, I am not a recreational oil changer although I do enjoy seeing a clean dip stick!

It's all sorts of tasks; finish mowing, bush hogging,scape blade/box blade grading, and some use of a three point disk. The oil is changed on a seasonal basis, so I'm sure it gets changed early at 2-3 changes a year. I'd be willing to give Rotella 10W-30 a shot in the heat, but 6 months is probably the longest I'd be willing to let it go...
 
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