Drum brake problem

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I'm having a issue with the drivers rear drum brake on the Escape. Back around 40-50k I snapped the bleeder off on that corner and had to replace the wheel cylinder. I'm guessing I didn't properly adjust it as the shoes were worn to the metal and the passenger side is still at 75%. The current problem I can't get the wheel to spin freely after I tightened down the wheel. If I leave it loose it's fine.

I have taken a wire wheel to the drum and made sure the back plate isn't bent. It did help till I started it up and drove around the block. Now it'll turn but stop in the same spot every time. I've adjusted it a dozen times and I'm sure it's not the brake shoes. The old ones wore fairly evenly. The only thing I can think of is the drum itself. Doesn't seem to affect brake operation but it does run 20 degrees hotter. It seems like it's always did that. On occasion it would turn freely and other times it won't. The other side never had a issue.
 
Make sure the return spring is in good condition. If it's not doing its job due to improper installation(which I've done more than a couple times) then it won't pull the shoes back from the drum. Take off the other side, and compare the mirror image parts.

Also, make sure the drums on both sides are the same thickness. I've also heard of different years being installed on the same vehicle.
 
New shoes are often too large.
Sometimes we can't get the drum on.
Maybe a little sanding of the shoe at the offending area will help gain clearance.
No worries - she'll seat in.
 
Both sides are the same and the springs are working. I'll give it some time and see what happens. The drum goes on with no problems.
 
Was having some pulsation in the pedal. After the flush and all the junk that came out of the rear brakes haven't had a problem since. Well till now. Yes I know I've heard many times shouldn't have anything in there etc etc. I just know it worked and I do regular 30k or so flushes. The front brakes lasted about 75k and that's with towing.
 
75k is considered normal brake life on this type of vehicle. I assume you like to change the fluid because it is hydroscopic and capable of absorbing moisture. When the fluid is full of moisture it generally will cause a soft or disappearing pedal as it warms with intense braking. Most people will likely never see this kind of condition.
 
The only thing I could figure is that the rear brakes wasn't operating fully causes the front brakes to overheat and pulsate. Didn't let it go long enough to cause damage. I will say that I'm assuming the brakes lasted 75k we bought it with 32k and I didn't touch it till 100k.. not sure if the brake were new or not.
 
Compare the linings on the shoes. If it's a typical drum brake, you should notice that there is more lining on one shoe than the other. The front shoe will have a "shorter" lining than the rear.

When you removed the shoes to replace the wheel cylinder, you didn't by chance get the front and rear shoes re-installed in the wrong position?
 
I believe the brakes on that vehicle are of the leading/trailing design and cannot be installed backwards. I think you are thinking of the dual servo system design. The most likely cause of drag on one drum versus another is either misadjustment or a parking brake actuator issue.
 
Originally Posted By: chris67
As an American, why are you using kilometres. I thought that was something the rest of the world used.



The "k" most likely refers to thousands, not kilometers.

"30k break service" would mean 30,000 mile break service.
 
Originally Posted By: chris67
I believe the brakes on that vehicle are of the leading/trailing design and cannot be installed backwards. I think you are thinking of the dual servo system design. The most likely cause of drag on one drum versus another is either misadjustment or a parking brake actuator issue.


I've seen it done. Someone wanted the right side to look exactly like the left, instead of a mirror image. They even twisted the e-brake cable all funky to make it all work!
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Both sides are the same I checked. The e-brake is adjusted correctly and seems to be working. Think I just need to give it time to seat in.
 
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