Post your internal engine pics

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1994 Taurus SHO 3.0L with about 150k on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Silk
This is a Mitsubishi 4M40 - the 2.8 diesel.I've never seen inside one to see what causes these marks on the bore,but they all have it.Even the new 4M41,that is the 3.2 direct injection common rail version.Their other small diesel the 2.5 4D56 doesn't do this.


I think Mitsubishi laser etched certain cylinders for oil retention reasons. I'm not 100% sure that what we are seeing here, but, I'd bet a dollar.

Years ago, Mitsubishi pioneered a system where cylinders were laser etched in specific patterns. The etching produced deep, uniform, microscopic oil retention pores. The result was greatly reduced cylinder wear, especially towards the end of engine life, at the point wear accelerates.
 
I had a radiator hose pop off which caused it to overheat and blow the gaskets while warping the heads at the same time.
 
Had to replace my valve cover gaskets this past weekend took the chance to take some pics.

144k on the engine, the head was rebuilt 35K miles ago.
Cams and Bearing Caps are still varnished up (the head was one of my spares i had laying around, i didnt send the cams or caps to the machine shop I should've but eh)

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2002 Passat 1.8t with 116k miles. Mostly Mobil1 0w40 used. Badly leaking headgasket replaced, along with ORIGINAL timing belt. Some varnish, no sludge. Inside of valve cover was gunked up pretty good.





 
It's a sludger - VW even issued an extended warranty but I don't know how many of those they carried through because you had to document use of their special oils. I'm happy this new-to-me 1.8t had a steady diet of Mobil1 0-40, but I'm still going with HDEO for the rest of its life more than likely.

CBR, I was impressed at how similar our pics looked too!
 
Originally Posted By: zanzabar
Badly leaking headgasket replaced, ...



That was supposed to say VALVE COVER gasket.
 
Yeah, they are sludgers. VW/Audi spec'd too long an OCI, and they cook the oil in half the time. You should see what they look like when people ran conventional oil for the recommended OCI.

Great running engines though, small turbo engine with lots of torque right off idle. 20 valve 4 cyl - I think they were between 180 and 200 HP depending on the application.

ECOboost 12 years ago.

And it was common to have PCV system failures requiring full-scale system replacement. The effects would be pressurizing the crankcase with boost and pushing oil out of all the seals. Also leaking cam gasket seals. My pictures were from the second valve cover gasket replacement in less than 60k. First was done under warranty.
 
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My '98 BMW 328is with 108k miles. Just had the valve cover gasket (along with many other things) done today so I snapped a few pictures. Oil changes from new were always some form of synthetic following the OLM (usually M1 5w-30), the past 30k were done using LL-01 oils (M1 0w-40 and now BMW 5w-30). I posted a UOA of my last oil change on here a while back.

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2006 Cadillac SRX LY7 3.6L "high feature V-6". Known in Australia as the Alloytec. 161K miles, some synthetic, some blend, some dino, lots of neglect. Replacing a STRETCHED primary timing chain.

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Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Timing chain tensioner looks good for another 100K! Why is half of the engine heavily varnished and the other half clean???


He's cleaning it. The first few pictures are of the side he cleans up. The clean-up pic gives a good idea of before/after.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Timing chain tensioner looks good for another 100K! Why is half of the engine heavily varnished and the other half clean???


Well, I am not very good with cleaners, so I took off the left side head and had it hot-tanked. Wish I knew of an easier way, but gotta have a clean engine to be a member of BITOG.
 
Originally Posted By: ktrsb
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Timing chain tensioner looks good for another 100K! Why is half of the engine heavily varnished and the other half clean???


Well, I am not very good with cleaners, so I took off the left side head and had it hot-tanked. Wish I knew of an easier way, but gotta have a clean engine to be a member of BITOG.


ok, j/k. lolz.

Don't taze me, bro, but I used Easy-Off. But the blue can, non-lye forumula.

I then neutralized it with ZEP ZUCIT128 degreaser (Homer) since it and the blue can Easy-Off are water-soluble. Then I hosed it down with PB blaster to prevent oxidization.

Lots of paper towels, white Brawny pick-a-sheet and blue Scott's, with a plastic stiff small parts brush and hemostats for the tight places.

Gotta do something with my OCD.

Follow along at http://srxturnsignals.shutterfly.com/timingchain
 
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