Anti-seize?

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I use anti-seize on a lot of things too, including lug bolts (they are bolts on my vehicles). I reduce torque accordingly and keep the seats clean. Any time I've checked the torque it's right where I left it.

On the hoses comment - petroleum tends to break down and swell rubber and similar components. I know there are a lot of different hose materials which may be out there, but all anti-seize is likely petroleum-based. Personally, I avoid getting it near anything rubber or plastic lest it cause more harm than good. I'd probably use a silicone based grease like "Super Lube" for hose assembly.

The spark plugs I use on German cars come with some anti-seize so I don't add any, but if I remove and reinstall the same plugs they get a dab. I use a spray-on anti-seize along with a cardboard cutout to lightly coat my rotor hats before installing my winter tires and I've never had a wheel doing anything but fall right off in the spring (compared to the rubber mallets required in past years). Suspension bolts, various screws holding wheel well liners, exhaust stuff, everything. I also don't understand where people who don't use it on anything are coming from. New cars every 3 years somewhere where there's no salt?
 
I think somewhere in this thread is somebody from Florida putting antisieze on everything. Salt is bad, wherever.
 
Just in case anyone is concerned, you can have Copper anti-sieze that is compatible with Stainless Steel. I use this stuff very extensively as well as Loctite Nickel stuff. If it's threaded, it either gets the SS-30 or the Nickel Anti-Seize.

Quote:
It can be applied directly to hot surfaces without running off, dripping, or thinning out. SS-30 is specially formulated for stainless steel fittings, protecting them from pitting and breakage. It works equally well on a wide range of similar and dissimilar metals and mating parts, including steel, cast iron, brass, copper, plastics, titanium gasket materials and packings. NLGI Grade 1-1/2.


http://www.jetlube.com/jetlube/productdetails.aspx?productId=715

It is also electrively conductive unlike many other types of Anti-Seize, so I put it anywhere on my car that large amounts of power goes through, and I don't have any problems with corrosion. The catch is though, that it's not supposed to be used on Aluminum, where Galvanic corrosion may be an issue.
 
Anti-seize is a Godsend! Any bolt I remove on my car, be it a splash shield bolt or a bumper screw, I use it.

I recently picked up some Permatex Extreme ceramic brake lubricant that I'm gonna do my brake service with. It's purple, very thick, and looks like an even more hardcore anti-seize compound than the copper and gray stuff I have. :cool:
 
Originally Posted By: JustinH
I just use anti seize on the hub where it mates with the wheel. I have had wheels get frozen to the hub.


Usually this is just an annoyance, not a real problem. But occaisionally this can be a serious issue with long-neglected aluminum wheels in wet climates with road salt/brine. As long as spun-off lubricant doesn't reach the brakes' frictional surfaces, anti-seize will reduce headaches.

Where approved, the correct formulation of anti-seize compound can be the best (and only) preventative measure for destructive bi-metallic galvanic corrosion.
 
hi I want to apply some anti-seize when I rotate my tires next time. whats the cheapest brand they have out there?
 
Originally Posted By: moto94536
hi I want to apply some anti-seize when I rotate my tires next time. whats the cheapest brand they have out there?


For tire rotations, I just use oil or gear lube on the wheel studs. It works great, and definitely makes a difference when it comes time to take the lug nuts back off.
 
Haven't tried anti-seize on lugnuts. For that, I use a little dab of whatever grease is close at hand.

I have a quart container of something made by 3M that's extreme high temp and says it's good for just about everything.

Works well for stainless steel rifle barrels mated to chrome-moly receivers.

Use it on a lot of motorcycle components where steel fasteners are mated to aluminum threads.

Never thought to use it on spark plugs. Hmmmmmm......

This is an interesting thread. I had no idea that folks were so passionate about their anti-seize.

Now excuse me while I go start a thread about duct tape. ;-)
 
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I just have a question for all of you...

What do you use anti-seize for? You can't use it on spark plugs, you can't use it on lug nuts, so what do you use it for?

what the [censored] you talking about? i use it on everything never any problems...


I'm serious.

GM says specifically to not use anti-seize on the spark plug threads, I think this was on the Ecotec. NGK says anti-seize is not needed either.

Lug nuts should not see anti-seize either. My O2 sensor came with some kind of goop already on the threads. What's left?


I'm curious about the above statement. Does GM really say not to use anti-seize on sparkplug threads on the Ecotec? If so, why? Are the Ecotech heads aluminum or iron?

I'm also curious about the statement that "NGK says anti-seize is not necessary on their sparkplugs". Can we get a source for this? I think I remember NGK touting a special coating on some of their plugs that negated the need for anti-seize but if I recall at the time this coating was not used across their entire line and I believe that they said that using anti-seize will not harm anything.

I'm very curious about these two statements as I have been told to always use anti-seize on sparkplugs going into aluminum heads or else risk stripping out the threads when removing the plug, a problem which I have definitely seen on aircooled VWs I have owned in the past.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

I still use anti-seize with no ill-effects over 100's of 1000's of miles.


Thanks for the source document. Yes, I just can't leave anti-seize off of spark plugs installed in aluminum heads. Just too many bad experiences in the past, I think I'm constitutionally unable to install a plug without anti-seize now. And I have used nothing but NGK plugs for many years and have therefore obviously installed plugs with their special plating with anti-seize to no ill effect. I do normally torque to the lower end of the spec range in any case.

I am still curious about GM advising against using anti-seize. I wonder if it is for the same reason, i.e. the potential to over torque the threads?
 
Use copper anti seize for marine applications and it will seize very hard. The copper becomes the more noble metal.
 
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