2011 VW Jetta 2.5 oil help!!!!

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rg200amp

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Hello all! I am buying a new 2011 VW Jetta SE next week.

It has the 2.5L 5 cylinder engine in it. What do you all recommend for OIL?

I have decided to give it a 3000 mile OCI untill 12,000 miles. Then I will change it once again at 15,000 miles and then stick with 5000 mile OCI from there on out.

VW says 10,000 mile OCI but there aint no way that is going to happen! (Look at my post count for pete's sake!)


So, I am just wondering what oil is recommended by you all. Thanks!!
 
I have an 09 2.5L jetta. 10k OCI is insane and people have problems with it. I run 5k changes. The motor is easy on oil, it's not a real pain like the 2.0t. Use whatever synthetic is on sale and you will be fine, or if u want to spend a little more I buy lubro-moly 5w40 and like it.

I'm throwing in castrol 5w40 over the weekend for a road trip (5k miles in 10days) because it was cheap and good for highway. I have some lubro moly ordered for when I get back.
 
Here's something to consider before buying a 2.5 VW (from a January 2011 thread)

Originally Posted By: rationull
Originally Posted By: scurvy

Agreed, it's not a nice-sounding engine.

The 2.5 is more complex, heavier, noisier, thirstier, harder to work on & has a timing chain at the back blocked by the transmission... and VW's track record with timing chains is dismal at best.


Timing chain on the rear of the engine!?


Yep. Transmission must be removed to access it. Apparently the 05 & 06 models were especially bad about skipping teeth on the chain.

Some interesting pictures in this post on whoretex: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.ph...=1#post68478006

And people complain about timing belts! I'll go with the timing system that's lighter, quieter, doesn't wear the cogs and is designed to be maintained. Gears would be preferable (with their own sump) but belts are a close second in my mind.
 
Originally Posted By: cryption
I have an 09 2.5L jetta. 10k OCI is insane and people have problems with it.


What sort of problems are they having?

10K mile or 1yr OCI should not be a problem on this engine, assuming you use a VW502.00 oil. The engine isn't particularly tough on oil and it has a decent size sump.
 
Originally Posted By: Button
Why do people still drink the Kool Aide about short OCI?


Fear, and the cost of a new engine.
 
You get free dealer changes at 10k, so I'd just use that yearly for summertime and do the inbetween changes for winter with a dino or synth 5w-30.

I change 3x a year w/my 2.0 TSI. Dealer 5w-40 for summer, GC 0w-30 for fall and thin Edge 5w-30 for winter...all on the same filter.

I'm good whether I do 10k a year or 15k or even more. Timed intervals are where it's at. 3k on synth in that engine is nuts. Just drain the original oil at 1k and refill it with some Rotella 5w-40 for this summer, it's very similar to dealer Syntec additive pack.

May June July Aug

Sept Oct Nov Dec

Jan Feb March Apr
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
You get free dealer changes at 10k, so I'd just use that yearly for summertime and do the inbetween changes for winter with a dino or synth 5w-30.

I change 3x a year w/my 2.0 TSI. Dealer 5w-40 for summer, GC 0w-30 for fall and thin Edge 5w-30 for winter...all on the same filter.

I'm good whether I do 10k a year or 15k or even more. Timed intervals are where it's at. 3k on synth in that engine is nuts. Just drain the original oil at 1k and refill it with some Rotella 5w-40 for this summer, it's very similar to dealer Syntec additive pack.

May June July Aug

Sept Oct Nov Dec

Jan Feb March Apr





I physically cannot go that long!

I have to change the oil atleast every 5000 miles!!!!

Also, I want to use oil approved for VW while I am in warranty.

What oil and filter does the dealer use?

I am thinking about useing whatever the dealer uses for summer and Mobil 1 0w40 during the winter.

Is GC approved by VW?

Thanks guys!!
 
Originally Posted By: Button
Why do people still drink the Kool Aide about short OCI?


There's no kool aid. It's just that some people want to change there oil more often.
 
I've been changing my wife's 2008 Rabbit's oil every 5K. It's about to turn 50K, at which point I may start running 10K OCIs. I have been running 5K OCIs because of a single UOA that I took at 25K that didn't look that great; but, that's a young engine.

robert
 
Remember, the newest oils in Europe are 5w-30s.

I like to change for seasons, since the dealer 5w-40 is twice as thick in cold as 5w-30, and I want my turbo lubed during my short trip driving.

Shorter drains of plain oil yield a better result than extended drains of synth, imo. I ran dino oil for the first few ocis in ALL my new non-turbo cars, and will do so again.
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
Here's something to consider before buying a 2.5 VW (from a January 2011 thread)

Originally Posted By: rationull
Originally Posted By: scurvy

Agreed, it's not a nice-sounding engine.

The 2.5 is more complex, heavier, noisier, thirstier, harder to work on & has a timing chain at the back blocked by the transmission... and VW's track record with timing chains is dismal at best.


Timing chain on the rear of the engine!?


Yep. Transmission must be removed to access it. Apparently the 05 & 06 models were especially bad about skipping teeth on the chain.

Some interesting pictures in this post on whoretex: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.ph...=1#post68478006

And people complain about timing belts! I'll go with the timing system that's lighter, quieter, doesn't wear the cogs and is designed to be maintained. Gears would be preferable (with their own sump) but belts are a close second in my mind.


Thank you for this post.

I have researched this issue and it was indeed a major issue. While it was not really fair to the ones this happened to, VW did fix the issue in late 06. They also did some redesigning in 08 to the timing chain/valve train to enhance its life even more.

So I am not worried about that. Also, if income is what I am planning it is going to be, I will be trading in the VW shortly after the powertrain warranty is up on a 2017 BMW 5 series.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie


Shorter drains of plain oil yield a better result than extended drains of synth, imo.


Shorter drains of synth = me happy!
 
If you used a good oil instead of that walmart fake synthetic like m1 and PP and Syntec maybe you would be comfortable going 8k on an oci
smile.gif
Look at your sump size vs swept area. Short changes with low polarity/poor lubricity oil with high detergency = increase engine wear. Definitely better off running a mid/low detergency package conventional if you are planning 3MO/5k OCI. You want to run the lowest detergent load you can get away with. I would re-asses your position. It's illogical.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
If you used a good oil instead of that walmart fake synthetic like m1 and PP and Syntec ....


Please explain this comment. Are you saying that Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, and Syntec are fake synthetics? Or are you saying that when those products are purchased from Wal-Mart they are fake synthetics?

If M1, PP and Syntec are fake, who makes "real" synthetics?
 
Last edited:
I never considered refined conventional oil as an appropriate synthetic for use in extended drain applications excepting GTO and converted slack wax III+ I feel group V and V/IV blend the only durable LL oils. The oil is the same if purchased at Walmart or Pep or VIP or wherever. Call me old fashioned.
 
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