No Leak Engine Oil Treatment - An Experiment

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My truck runs well and I've replaced every gasket on the engine with the exception of the valve stem seals, head gaskets and rear main seal. I have no external oil leaks, but the valve stem seals are bad, so it puffs smoke upon starting the engine when it is hot (hot starts/restarts) and consumes oil.

I've purchased new valve stem seals to replace the ones on there, but I honestly just don't feel like doing it right now.

I also looked around for someone to do it for me and found someone to do it for me for $200, which is fair, but I will be replacing the current engine in probably a year or two with an engine that has a roller cam, so it doesn't make sense to do that either. That money can go towards the parts for that roller engine block rebuild.

So, until I feel like doing the replacement of the seals myself, I figured what the heck. I'll try the $6 additive (or if as some prefer to call it: "snake oil") and see what happens.

I'm losing a quart I guess about every 700-800 miles and had to add another quart this morning and it hit me to give something a try to slow it down a little until I get to it.

Right now my oil level is full and my odometer reads 75,715 and I'll report back in about 500 miles to see if there's any sort of improvement.
 
I wouldn't put that stuff in my engine. Get a air compressor and hook it up to the spark plug hole to push the valves up and do the valve seals one cylinder at a time. It really isn't that bad of a job.
 
I've used 4 bottles of this stuff with no decrease in oil leaking/consumption in my car. If it doesn't help you, I would suggest you try ATP AT-205. It seems to have worked better than anything else.
 
Originally Posted By: Radman
I wouldn't put that stuff in my engine. Get a air compressor and hook it up to the spark plug hole to push the valves up and do the valve seals one cylinder at a time. It really isn't that bad of a job.


True, it really isn't that bad of a job, it's one of those things where I have a busy schedule, the upper intake manifold has to come off to access one of the valve covers and I'm exhausted from working on the truck right now. I have put tons of time into resurrecting this truck from the dead and need a breather before I dive back into working on it.

If it was quickly accessible like my Cavalier where I could simply just pop off the valve cover, replace seals and put the valve cover back on, I'd be all over it.
 
Back with an update. My odometer is at 76,062. I haven't quite touched 500 miles yet as I indicated I would above, but I have to say that the stuff appears to be working.

My oil level has dropped SLIGHTLY. I checked it a few days ago and it hadn't dropped at all, so I decided to drive a bit aggressively to see what would happen and it went down minimally as a result.

I'll be reporting back again once I put more miles on it to see if there's any change with consumption whether it be better or worse.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I've used 4 bottles of this stuff with no decrease in oil leaking/consumption in my car. If it doesn't help you, I would suggest you try ATP AT-205. It seems to have worked better than anything else.


When your oil consumption decreased, did you keep using it as general maintenance or the consumption stayed the same after you finished using it?
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I've used 4 bottles of this stuff with no decrease in oil leaking/consumption in my car. If it doesn't help you, I would suggest you try ATP AT-205. It seems to have worked better than anything else.


When your oil consumption decreased, did you keep using it as general maintenance or the consumption stayed the same after you finished using it?


I don't have enough miles since the AT-205 treatment to really say for sure, but I do know that since using it my rear main seal leak isn't leaving near as many drips on the ground. It should be a nearly permanent fix if it did indeed fix anything.
 
Back with another update. My odometer is at 76,235 and I have not lost any more oil, so it appears to be working. It's a wish, but I am truly hoping this solves my issue for a good while. At least until I get the engine block I recently purchased rebuilt.

Also, I emailed Gold Eagle and asked about subsequent usage and their reply was that I do not need to use No Leak in future oil changes unless my oil consumption problem returns.

So, 520 miles and a little consumption in the first 250 or so miles and no consumption in the last 250 or so miles.

I have about 1800 miles remaining until my next oil change and I'll post my next update then. I'll also post subsequent updates on how my consumption issue goes over the next OCI.
 
I also believe in "snake oils". I did MMO piston soak twice and every time oil consumption stopped. It did come back after 3000 miles after the first time, will see if the second time does the trick (no consumption so far after over 700 miles).
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
I also believe in "snake oils". I did MMO piston soak twice and every time oil consumption stopped. It did come back after 3000 miles after the first time, will see if the second time does the trick (no consumption so far after over 700 miles).


MMO is very good stuff. It has helped me out tremendously on my truck. It was a sludgebucket that few have ever compared to when I first bought it. That was actually what led me to BITOG. I wish I would've taken before pictures! Last time I took a valve cover off, the sludge had cleaned up quite a bit and I was starting to see bare metal.
 
Well, I'm back with the final verdict........

I have about 200 more miles to go before my oil change and the No Leak did NOT hold up. It held up for a little over 1,000 miles then my oil consumption came back. I ended up having to add another quart of oil. So, at this point, I am left with 4 options.

-Option #1 is to try another bottle of the stuff to see if it can generate a permanent seal.

-Option #2 is to go with a high mileage motor oil.

-Option #3 is to try another stop leak product(which probably won't be happening).

-Option #4 is to make time to fix the valve stem seals or pay somebody to do it.

Options 2 or 4 sound most likely.

The conclusion is that it worked short term, but did not hold up over 1,000 miles. It may have worked more permanently had I added a second bottle, but I'm not one to keep adding something that is more than the cost of a bottle of synthetic motor oil.

So, my experiment is complete. It truly did work, but it didn't hold up that far over 1,000 miles. I will probably more than likely try a high mileage motor oil next or make time to replace the seals so I can no longer deal with the nuisance of oil consumption.
 
Try Maxlife, then record usage in 1000 miles, than Try LM Oil Saver, and record usage if any after 1000 miles. Repeat for next OCI with same oil and LM Oil Saver, compare numbers. It may not work really fast.
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Try Maxlife, then record usage in 1000 miles, than Try LM Oil Saver, and record usage if any after 1000 miles. Repeat for next OCI with same oil and LM Oil Saver, compare numbers. It may not work really fast.


You seriously read my mind.......I've been looking at the Full Synthetic Maxlife mighty hard as of late. I have been looking at the at the regular blend Maxlife kinda hard as well. I'll visit NAPA and check out the LM Oil Saver as well.
 
Maxlife has be great at reducing consumption and leaks for me and customers over the years. I have tried the LM Oil Saver and so-so results in non-HM oil. I have not tried it in conjunction with HM oil, but that is on my list when the opportunity comes. I have 2 more cans left to test with. I have used Schaeffer Moly 132 and very satisfied with the results of lowered consumption and smoking from poor valve stem sealing. Also have had some noticeably quieter engines with the Schaeffer additive, as a side benefit.
 
I assume you are on this if you can do a valve job, but how is Check Crankcase ventilation? A 6$ PCV valve is always my starting point with oil consumption, and no leak
 
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
I assume you are on this if you can do a valve job, but how is Check Crankcase ventilation? A 6$ PCV valve is always my starting point with oil consumption, and no leak


You know ......you have a valid point. The PCV valve that's in it is about a year old Purolator PCV that's in good condition (I took it out and gave it the shaker test). Also, I do have a new Motorcraft PCV valve on hand that I was thinking about trying. I'm comparing apples to oranges, but I have read something about the 5.0L Mustangs needing to use Motorcraft PCVs. I wonder is it a connection with non-Motorcraft PCVs and oil consumption. I guess it wouldn't hurt to pop in the Motorcraft PCV when I change the oil this week and see what happens.
 
The more I think about it, I am just going to do HM oil and replace the seals whenever I get time. I guess my next review will be on HM oil.
 
My solution to this was that I took advantage of the cool fall weather, took it apart and replaced the valve stem seals. Problem solved. I couldn't see myself doing it in August when it was 95 to 100 degrees every day.
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
My solution to this was that I took advantage of the cool fall weather, took it apart and replaced the valve stem seals. Problem solved. I couldn't see myself doing it in August when it was 95 to 100 degrees every day.


Good on you dude--you did the right thing--I am sure the engine and yourself are a lot happier now. Probably picked up 15-20 hp burning a clean mixture now
 
It does run a whole lot better. It doesn't have that stumble anymore when starting it up. It has better acceleration as well. I anticipate this helping to eliminate my ping problem too since oil is no longer making it down to the combustion chamber causing deposits.
 
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