Do you really need to use bar & chain oil in a chainsaw, or will a straight 30 weight, 5W-30, or 5W-20 work? I borrowed a neighbor's saw and the reservoir is dry. I don't want to waste time making a trip to the store if something I have on the shelf is just as suitable. I have some PYB SAE HD-30, SynPower 5W-20, and G-OIL 5W-30.
Bar & Chain Oil
- Thread starter barlowc
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Any oil will do. Bar and chain oil is usually flush oil or recycled oil that has a tackifier added so it doesn't fly off the chain as easy. I have used old oil 2-stroke oil, motor oil, and even the Mercon V I drained from my Ford 5R55E.
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Originally Posted By: 123Saab
I'd like to add that if it is a saw that someone graciously lent to you, You might want to ask him what he likes to use in it.
This.
I'd like to add that if it is a saw that someone graciously lent to you, You might want to ask him what he likes to use in it.
This.
Originally Posted By: 123Saab
I'd like to add that if it is a saw that someone graciously lent to you, You might want to ask him what he likes to use in it.
That would be the kind that he doesn't know that it needs. I prefer to put somethingelse in.
I'd like to add that if it is a saw that someone graciously lent to you, You might want to ask him what he likes to use in it.
That would be the kind that he doesn't know that it needs. I prefer to put something
Is this a 15 minute job or all day? I would use bar and chain oil, its pretty cheap about $7.00/gallon at TSC. Give the rentee the balance of your container of bar and chain oil as a thank you.
If you hit a rock or a nail or cut locust (I have seen sparks come off cutting plain locust wood) you should offer to have the chain sharpened.
Have you ever used a chain saw before? Is there someone else home to call 911 if you cut yourself?
I would put a chain saw right up there, next to an old buzz saw, and above a brush hog for being dangerous.
If you hit a rock or a nail or cut locust (I have seen sparks come off cutting plain locust wood) you should offer to have the chain sharpened.
Have you ever used a chain saw before? Is there someone else home to call 911 if you cut yourself?
I would put a chain saw right up there, next to an old buzz saw, and above a brush hog for being dangerous.
Bar and chain oil is generally quite thick, with above mentioned tackifier.
I was having rapid chain wear issues and tried everything to reduce wear. I tried adding 50% Mobil 1, 15W-50 motor oil, using straight M1, different brands of chain oil, gear lube, ZDDP additives and so on. Nothing made much difference. After 5 oil pump rebuilds, cleanings and so on...
I then purchased a new oil pump unit and that certainly seemed to help. Without objective data, the old one and the new one seem to flow about the same amount of oil. Hmmm... Maybe it was pressure related.
Anyway, motor oil seems to work just fine in my saw.
I was having rapid chain wear issues and tried everything to reduce wear. I tried adding 50% Mobil 1, 15W-50 motor oil, using straight M1, different brands of chain oil, gear lube, ZDDP additives and so on. Nothing made much difference. After 5 oil pump rebuilds, cleanings and so on...
I then purchased a new oil pump unit and that certainly seemed to help. Without objective data, the old one and the new one seem to flow about the same amount of oil. Hmmm... Maybe it was pressure related.
Anyway, motor oil seems to work just fine in my saw.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Is this a 15 minute job or all day?
Somewhere in between, generally light duty. Cutting off some tree limbs, etc.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Have you ever used a chain saw before? Is there someone else home to call 911 if you cut yourself?
Yes, and yes. And safety goggles are in the mix.
The chain saw in question is a Remington electric.
Is this a 15 minute job or all day?
Somewhere in between, generally light duty. Cutting off some tree limbs, etc.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Have you ever used a chain saw before? Is there someone else home to call 911 if you cut yourself?
Yes, and yes. And safety goggles are in the mix.
The chain saw in question is a Remington electric.
As far as lubrication needs go, this is the most simple need for an oil to fill. A chain running in a bar groove. My saw has an auto oiler and a manual oiler. With the auto oiler set to max it still is not enough lubrication, so I pump the manual oiler as well. I cut a lot of wood each year and go through 5 gals of gas min. My 25 year old saw has the original bar on it. (its about worn out now) and I have worn out at least 10-15 chains.
Don't over analyze this application; No need for ZDDP or Boron additives here....
Don't over analyze this application; No need for ZDDP or Boron additives here....
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Originally Posted By: Cujet
Bar and chain oil is generally quite thick, with above mentioned tackifier.
Except for Winter grade chain oil which is quite thin...
Bar and chain oil is generally quite thick, with above mentioned tackifier.
Except for Winter grade chain oil which is quite thin...
Just found the owner's manual online. It says, "Fill oil tank with SAE #30 motor oil. Note: For temperatures below 30°F, use SAE #10 oil. For temperatures above 75°F, use SAE #40 oil."
Most bar oil is about sae 30 weight. Is has additives to make it sticky to stay on the chain. Given what you have on hand, use the HD-30.
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
As far as lubrication needs go, this is the most simple need for an oil to fill. A chain running in a bar groove. My saw has an auto oiler and a manual oiler. With the auto oiler set to max it still is not enough lubrication, so I pump the manual oiler as well. I cut a lot of wood each year and go through 5 gals of gas min. My 25 year old saw has the original bar on it. (its about worn out now) and I have worn out at least 10-15 chains.
Don't over analyze this application; No need for ZDDP or Boron additives here....
Did you flip the bar to even out the wear?
As far as lubrication needs go, this is the most simple need for an oil to fill. A chain running in a bar groove. My saw has an auto oiler and a manual oiler. With the auto oiler set to max it still is not enough lubrication, so I pump the manual oiler as well. I cut a lot of wood each year and go through 5 gals of gas min. My 25 year old saw has the original bar on it. (its about worn out now) and I have worn out at least 10-15 chains.
Don't over analyze this application; No need for ZDDP or Boron additives here....
Did you flip the bar to even out the wear?
Yes, I do, but the bars dont last forever
How can you tell when the bar is worn?
Originally Posted By: RRich
How can you tell when the bar is worn?
The chain begins to fit in the slot in a sloppy manner. If you have a nose sprocket I hope you are properly greasing that.
How can you tell when the bar is worn?
The chain begins to fit in the slot in a sloppy manner. If you have a nose sprocket I hope you are properly greasing that.
FWIW Husky recommend 80W-90 GL5 diff oil if B&C oil isn't available in their 90cc and over saws.
I disagree with Bluestream, longer bars and longer cuts tax the lubricant IMO (there's a fair bit of shear involved) and need added EP additives but the thing that really causes wear is blunt chains and forcing the bar in the cut rather than using a sharp chain and letting it self feed.
FWIW one of the local cutters uses 46AW Hydraulic fluid in his 395 and 3120XP in our harder than [censored] Eucs without issue.
I disagree with Bluestream, longer bars and longer cuts tax the lubricant IMO (there's a fair bit of shear involved) and need added EP additives but the thing that really causes wear is blunt chains and forcing the bar in the cut rather than using a sharp chain and letting it self feed.
FWIW one of the local cutters uses 46AW Hydraulic fluid in his 395 and 3120XP in our harder than [censored] Eucs without issue.
We simply keep a couple gallons of our used oil from our fleet trucks.
This means whatever synthetic that was on sale. I cut 16000 pounds of oak last year with my brother in law during a major tree trimming fest and other than sharpening and very infrequent adjustments my cheap little poulan is still ready to go.
This means whatever synthetic that was on sale. I cut 16000 pounds of oak last year with my brother in law during a major tree trimming fest and other than sharpening and very infrequent adjustments my cheap little poulan is still ready to go.
The bar needs to have the edges filed to remove the slight ledge that builds up over time. Take the chain off and feel the edge of the bar. If it feels like it has a sharp edge, file it down until the side of the bar is back to it's original dimensions. Turn your bar over every so often to equalize wear. Grease the tip sprocket as well.
You can tell that a bar is worn pretty much by looking at it. When the chain will no longer completely seat in the groove or won't stay on the bar when properly adjusted, the bar is shot.
You can tell that a bar is worn pretty much by looking at it. When the chain will no longer completely seat in the groove or won't stay on the bar when properly adjusted, the bar is shot.
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