Toyota RAV4 rotor removal??

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Hi all,

I were wondering if you knowledgeable gents could help me with a few questions concerning my wife's Toyota RAV4.

Year; 2004

Tranny: 5 speed manual

Brakes : all wheel ABS

Engine , : 2.4 liter 4 cylders

Mileage: 192,000

I am getting a slight pulse when the Brakes are applied , seem like after 192,000 the Front rotors need replacemet, my question is:

(1) Do i need to remove the front hub in order to remove the Rotor?

(2) If i do have to remove the hub, what size hub nut did Toyota fit to the hub, what size hub socket will i need to purchase?

THanks for your Help.

Tundraz
 
Thanks Carbon for replying, i tried and did what you said but thus far i cant get the rotor to come off it must be stuck on or something because the whole thing is seriously rusted as i live here in the salt belt.

What is a good way of getting off the stuck rotors? as i assume the other one will be stuck too?

Thanks, Tundraz.
 
Do you have air tools? An impact hammer applied around the center hub worked like magic in freeing a frozen rear rotor on my LS. It literally took 3-4 seconds, and voila!
 
Look in the center of your rotors, if there are a couple holes with no apparent purpose near the hub you can put some (6mm?) bolts in there and crank them down, they'll push against the hub and pop the thing off.
 
Originally Posted By: Tundraz
Thanks a lot guys, yes i see those holes, i will try that.

If tightening the bolts only results in the metal distorting and the rotor not budging, STOP!!! Post back here for more tricks for freeing stuck rotors. Hint: It's rust inside the "top hat" that does it. Don't expect many people south of the PA/MD border to understand...
 
If you crank the bolts and seem stuck, give the rotor a good bang with the hammer. Doesn't really even matter in which direction. Then repeat the torque: bolts should feel a little looser.
 
Originally Posted By: Carbon
Here is a method I would suggest you consider. This does not use the little holes on the rotor.

Now that is very very cool! I've never seen it done that way before. Very practical, easy on the parts and on the man doing the work. Thanks for posting that!
 
Thanks a lot for all the information guys, i still have not gotten it off yet, just saw that video i believe that will work, yes Teger, its the whole "Top hat " that has rusted solid.

Think i'll put some antisieze grease on the new ones so i wont have this problem again.

Thank, Tundraz
 
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