New GM EOS and alternatives?

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Please excuse me for not finding info with the search function, but I suspect it requires words with four or more letters, so "new GM EOS" results in no matches.

I've read that the new GM EOS has less zinc and phosphorus content and WAY more calcium than the original formulation. This is very unsettling! What did the original have, what does the new have, and what are the alternatives? ZDDPlus? Torco MPZ? Crane break-in concentrate?
(I need to know because I will soon be breaking in a flat tappet cam in a BBC.)
 
Can you get your hands on Redline break-in oil? If so,I'd use

that.Next would be the Crane Cams concentrate.I wouldn't play

around with using the EOS even if you did find the "older" version.
 
If you're looking for additional zddp content, EOS has been fourth-rate for that for a long time. ZDDPlus or Red Line Oil Oil Supplement and many other additives have much higher concentrations.
 
The Torco MPZ might be a good choice after break-in (has a TON of soluble moly as well).

For the actual break-in, you cannot do much better than the suggested Red Line product.
wink.gif
 
All of the major cam grinders offer a quality break-in lube. Most important is to keep the RPMs around 2K or above upon inital fire-up making sure the cam is well oiled.

Some engine builders will suggest using a lighter valve spring to keep from hammering the cam until it seats.

I've had good results using Valvoline racing oil 10W40 in non street applicatios.
 
All of the major cam grinders offer a quality break-in lube. Most important is to keep the RPMs around 2K or above upon inital fire-up making sure the cam is well oiled.

Some engine builders will suggest using a lighter valve spring to keep from hammering the cam until it seats.

I've had good results using Valvoline racing oil 10W40 in non street applicatios.
 
Well, I called around town today and looked around on the internet, and the best I could do was Rislone's 5010 ppm Zn additive. If I use the whole quart of that and 6.5 qts of Valvoline VR1 straight 30 (1200 ppm Zn), that should put me just over 1700 ppm Zn. With that much additive, is there any concern of diluting the additive package of the VR1, or messing up the viscosity?
 
What are the factual real life beefs with EOS? I have used it for 26 years for new cam and lifter installs. My last camshaft and lifter job (Comp mechanical flat tappet, 350# open pressure) was with the new formula... that was 15,000 hard miles ago and the lash hasn't changed a lick. I don't keep it (or any other cam break-in lube) in the crankcase beyond the intial cam break-in and, it goes without saying, I have never lost a camshaft.

To the OP, I have started to use ZDDPlus just lately and haven't had any issues to date so I would recommend it as an option but I still use GM EOS primarily, even the new lighter ZDDP formula.

Here is the ZDDPlus I buy.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-86092/
 
EOS used to be great, and I used it with positive results a few years ago in my truck engine. The beef is I've read it has less zinc than it used to (I can't find the exact numbers, though), and over the past five years or so a number of new, more concentrated zinc additives have come on the market.

ZDDPlus would have been my second choice, but they don't have very good distribution (basically have to order it online), and I need to fire the engine on Monday.
 
With high performance engine oils available now like Joe gibbs and brad Penn there is no need for zinc additives anymore. These oils are much better than a modern api oil with additives as they are formulated to work together as a engineered package and not a afterthought. Dan
 
Originally Posted By: NovaMan
I need to fire the engine on Monday.


In a pinch you can use a good diesel oil, I have used Rotella 15w40 for cam break-ins many times w/o EOS.

Most of the speed shops in my neck of the woods carry ZDDP additives, Joe Gibbs oil and VR1 oil in stock... you should be able to find something in Michigan I would think.

What are your spring pressures? If they aren't excessive it won't matter anyway if you use a ZDDP additive or not.
 
I don't think I have enough Rotella on hand (need 7qts + filter). Haven't they lowered the zinc in that yet?

The nearest store that I would call a speed shop is 30 miles away, and I needed to fit my exhaust pipes yesterday before 1PM, which precluded going all that way. Of course, they'll be closed on Labor Day.

According to my calculations, my spring pressures should be 128 PSI on the seat and 363 PSI open, BUT they're double springs, and I took out the inner springs for break-in.
 
Crane p/n 134691. Here's what they have to say about breaking in flat tappet cams:

Quote:
There are some oils with additive packages that are better for camshaft “break-in”. These include, but are not limited to: (Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs racing) or a “race only” petroleum- based oil and include Crane Cams Part # 99003-1 "Super Lube” additive. Do not use API rated “SL” or “SM” oil.
 
When the smell of EOS changed from what it was in the early 70's, is probably when the real original formula changed.
Hmmm kinda like Coke a cola and highfructose. LOL
 
i use ZDDPlus all the time, wouldn't be with out it. red line engine oil break-in additive, is good all so. just keep moisture out of crankcase. all the acids that you dont want are water base, ie keep water out youll not have acid. run an engine as hot as you can.
 
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