95 Chev Lumina 3.1L w/bad EGR valve

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I had my mechanic run a diagnostic and we found the EGR valve is bad. But it only malfunctions sporadically and the check engine light comes on for a minute then shuts off. That doesn’t happen very often. This part is easy enough for me to replace on my own which is cool. Just wondered how long a car can run for on a bad EGR and what happens when it is malfunctioning?
 
Nothing bad will happen but a slight dip in MPG maybe 1-3mpg and you wont pass an emissions test..
 
Improper crankcase ventilation is a MAJOR contributor to engine oil forming sludge in your engine. You may not want to put off replacement of this inexpensive part unless you want sludge problems in the future. FWIW-Oldtommy
 
Probably nothing bad will happen ever. The sludge warning doesn't make any sense to me. Usually when this model of EGR valve fails, one of its three solenoids is not opening as far as it should. The other two are probably fine, so the valve is still mostly working.

If a code still gets stored after a replacement, you may need to rod out the EGR pipe or the EGR passage in the intake plenum.

It's an easy repair to do, so you might as well get it done some morning when you have an extra 15 minutes. Just remember to buy a new gasket as well as the valve.
 
I've had a little experience with this problem. Had it happen on two similar vehicles.

I had a '96 Olds Achieva with a 3100 that would set an EGR code. I removed the valve and found that the port from the EGR valve into the manifold was completely blocked with carbon. I dug it out with a coathanger wire, reinstalled the valve, and it worked fine.

I also had a '94 Corsica that was doing exactly what you've described of your lumina- the light would only come on occasionally for a few seconds once I got up to highway speed, throwing an EGR code. I took the EGR valve off and checked that port- it was clear. I checked the pipe- it was clear. So I took the valve apart (this is was the type with three solenoids- they're pretty easy to disassemble, but lots of little parts and pieces to keep track of). I cleaned up and lubed all the parts, and put it back together. And I guess that took care of it because the code never came back (the car lasted about 2.5 more years before the transmission died).

But as long as the car isn't pinging (you'd hear it), I really don't think this is a big problem. It won't keep the car from starting/running, and it won't affect gas mileage much. So if you leave it alone, chances are that nothing will come of it- unless you need to pass an emissions test or something.
 
When I replace it, does the computer need to be reset, or if the problem is fixed will the check engine light simply not come on any more?
 
Originally Posted By: Mark72
When I replace it, does the computer need to be reset, or if the problem is fixed will the check engine light simply not come on any more?


The EGR code will be stored in the history codes even if no CEL. On a 1995, just disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and the code should be cleared.

FWIW, I've got the same issue in the wife's 95 Grand Am. I had a spare from another car, so she swapped them out - still the occasional CEL (goes back out). I forgot to tell her to look for blockages, so we'll re-visit it soon...
 
There's a chance that this car may not clear the code with a long battery disconnect. Some '94 and '95 cars with the L82 V6 had "quasi-OBD-II" control modules that were much harder to trick.
 
If it sticks open or shut, opposite things can happen.
Shut, maybe spark knock. Open, lousy running.
Or anything in between.
 
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