Accidentally overextended

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I've been using Maxlife Semi 5/30 in my '02 ES300 for a few years. The car has 170K miles on it and runs like new. I normally change my oil between 5 and 6K like clockwork and use a Pure One filter.
You couldn't believe the horror when I discovered this last change that I had gone 10K. I didn't realize it was that long as I'm usually on top of these things.
So just to make sure if this happens again, I bought Mobil One HM 5/30. And of course the Pure One filter. As a matter of fact, this is the way I might go from now on and extend my changes to 10K as the $7 price difference between ML and M1 isn't all that significant.
 
Don't worry about it. I'm sure the Maxlife and P1 didn't notice the difference.

Just watch out for burning on the M1, especially since it hasn't seen full synthetic oils in a few years. M1 burned off in an older car I tried it in. Our Honda doesn't burn a drop of M1 0w-20, and it's run a full synthetic since 11k miles.
 
The 2002 ES300 uses the 1MZ-FE engine doesn't it? That engine is widely known as a sludge monster. It's what started Toyota's engine sludge issues. Keep your oil change interval low and change your PCV valve often!
 
tinman beat me to it, this vehicle is a known sludger. That said, one time with a good oil and filter combo following regular maintenance, going to 10k once isn't going to spell the end of the engine.

Because it's a sludger, think I'd stick to no more than 5-6k OCI's with this vehicle in the future, even with M1 or other syn.

Curious how long(time) it took to reach the 10k?
 
I think the sludge issue depended on when the car was manufactured.
Mine was manufactured after that date.
 
Quote:
I think the sludge issue depended on when the car was manufactured.
Mine was manufactured after that date.
Just know the 02 ES300 is on the sludger list.

Before I'd start running 10 k OCI I'd verify that your vehicle is definitely NOT included in 02 listing. If I couldn't, I'd stick with no more than 5-6k OCI's even with M1/syn, cheap insurance. But, your call.

welcome2.gif
 
The sludger list pertains to Lexus manufactured up to 7/01.
Mine was manufactured in 10/01 so I should be alright.
 
The newer version of the 1MZFE motor had a improved PCV valve and valve cover.
The old style PCV valve was a plastic unit that pressed into a grommet in the rear valve cover.
The new style PCV valve is a metal unit that screws into the rear valve cover (same location).

I have a 2003 Toyota Sienna, which is outside the "gelling" issue years with the same engine as your ES300

Personaly, I like to stick to the shorter Oil Change Interval.
One reason, as you experienced.....If I don't get to it right when it was due, I have a safety buffer built into my program.
How long it takes one to put the miles on is a factor.
If you are doing a lot of highway miles, not much short trip driving and you put a lot of miles on.....then you are less likely to develop sludge as long as you use a quality oil and filter....check the PCV valve to make sure that it does not become clogged, and othewise keep up on your routine maintenance.

I went with a longer oil filter.....exact same dimensions otherwise, same threads, same pressure bypass.
PLENTY of room for the longer filter.

The numbers are......
Pure One
PL20195 4.74" long in place of PL10241 3.36" long

More recently, I have been using
Bosch Distance Plus D3422 in place of D3330
It is also made by Purolator but has a heavier can and more dirt holding capacity.

I like both filters.

The first oil changes, I used the WIX filter.
Here is a picture of the filter that was on the vehicle when I got it, vs the longer filter.

 
I am doing factory spec'd OCIs (5k miles), even with a synthetic, and the engine I have is the 3MZ-FE, a decendant of the 1MZ-FE that should have this issue long cleared. But because of its lineage, I feel better not going crazy with my OCIs, and using syn since they tend to be more sludge resistant than dino.

Even though your 1MZ-FE is supposed to be outside the window of issues, remember it traces back to a fundamental design flaw, and Toyota only did a band-aid fix on one of the contributing factors.
 
Exactly why a 5K mile OCI with a quality synthetic and a bigger capacity oil filter is my approach.
I also pulled the valve covers and had a look around, installed new valve cover gaskets, PCV valve and spark plugs.
The timing belt was changed at 89K miles as well as the water pump at a TOYOTA dealership (was cheaper than a quality independant shop).

I am VERY confident that these are good motors, when properly maintained, which is sounds like you are doing.
 
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