I have a 2007 Chevy Impala that needs struts. I have never done it before but have been looking at the "quick struts". My question is has anyone ever put these on? If so how bad of a job is it? Is it worth just taking it in and having it done? I realize an alignment will need to be done after. Any thoughts or ideas are welcome.
Need to replace struts.
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does it really need struts?
i put all 4 new monroe sensa trac quick struts on my grand prix a little over 2 years ago. the job was very easy. now that i know way more about that kind of stuff, i wouldnt do it again. it is soo much cheaper just to get the strut only, borrow a strut-spring compressor from autozone, and just keep using your current spring and strut mount, which are most likely still good
I just did the front struts on our 2003 sunfire. Both strut mounts were bad at 70k miles, making creaking sounds when you turned the wheel.
I think in some cases a quick strut is cheaper than buying struts and mounts. Get an alignment afterwards for sure, or you will have camber issues.
I think in some cases a quick strut is cheaper than buying struts and mounts. Get an alignment afterwards for sure, or you will have camber issues.
You can install the quick struts.
I installed a set of struts when I was ... I think ... 17 years old. Then I drove it to a local shop and said I needed an alignment. Scumbags lifted it and said I needed ... STRUTS! Gotta love it. Long story short (too late?) you can handle it. Have a good manual on hand and drink the beer afterward, not before.
Quick struts are the way to go if you are a DIY. Also, they are a great idea because the other stuff sometimes falls apart just after you remove the spring.
Take 2 bolts off where the strut contacts the steering knuckle, take 3 off where the upper mount touches the strut tower, do the reverse, and repeat for all sides.
Rear struts are sometimes attached to bolts with limited access. In many versions of the Toyota Camry, Toyota Avalon, Nissan Maxima, Nissan Stanza, and Nissan Altima the back seats must come out of the car for this.
My dad swore revenge on that McPherson guy when he had to pay the bill on a 1985 Nissan Maxima that absolutely needed all 4 struts.
Take 2 bolts off where the strut contacts the steering knuckle, take 3 off where the upper mount touches the strut tower, do the reverse, and repeat for all sides.
Rear struts are sometimes attached to bolts with limited access. In many versions of the Toyota Camry, Toyota Avalon, Nissan Maxima, Nissan Stanza, and Nissan Altima the back seats must come out of the car for this.
My dad swore revenge on that McPherson guy when he had to pay the bill on a 1985 Nissan Maxima that absolutely needed all 4 struts.
I'm still using the original factory struts from 2000. And when I changed out the upper strut mount
bearings, the alignment didn't change at all. I wouldn't think a 2007 would need new struts already.
bearings, the alignment didn't change at all. I wouldn't think a 2007 would need new struts already.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'm still using the original factory struts from 2000. And when I changed out the upper strut mount
bearings, the alignment didn't change at all. I wouldn't think a 2007 would need new struts already.
+1 I guess its possible you need A strut but I just had the 1st strut of the original 4 go bad on my Neon this spring. One of the rears went and I replaced the both of them, but the other one tested fine and I'll hold onto it as a spare.
I bought a spring compressor too as quick struts seemed to be far more expensive than just the strut, and I wanted a stiffer KYB strut for which there isn't a quick strut. I got a compressor that clamps onto the spring with u bolts so its pretty safe.
Do some reading on how to tell if a strut is shot, I think alot get replaced because of other problems in the suspension.
I'm still using the original factory struts from 2000. And when I changed out the upper strut mount
bearings, the alignment didn't change at all. I wouldn't think a 2007 would need new struts already.
+1 I guess its possible you need A strut but I just had the 1st strut of the original 4 go bad on my Neon this spring. One of the rears went and I replaced the both of them, but the other one tested fine and I'll hold onto it as a spare.
I bought a spring compressor too as quick struts seemed to be far more expensive than just the strut, and I wanted a stiffer KYB strut for which there isn't a quick strut. I got a compressor that clamps onto the spring with u bolts so its pretty safe.
Do some reading on how to tell if a strut is shot, I think alot get replaced because of other problems in the suspension.
Early strut death can happen. I bought a MY2005 car with 45K mi in 2008, and it had one strut with completely blown-out valving.
You tube and I think Monroe has a video out on how to change em' out.Did my son's car with the Quick-Struts...easy as one two three!
Hello, Some early strut death would have to be inevitable because the parts are so small. The Saabs in the family have very hearty struts and shocks. My Volvo has a front strut which is gushing oil. At 125,000 miles I have no complaint even though they know how to make them last longer. I bought Sachs "Sport Touring". What is a quick strut? Never heard the term. Kira
Kira, a quick strut is the strut, coil spring, and the strut boot kit, already put to together, such as it is already installed in the car, and all you need to do is just remove the old, and install the new. no spring compressor needed.
Quick struts do save a lot of time and are so much easier to do. No fiddling with any of your old parts. and guaranteed good results since everything is new. Worth the money to save aggravation.
The risk of alignment changes usually relates to camber. If one of the strut-to-knuckle bolt holes is deliberately elongated, you have some range of adjustment whether you want it or not.
Even now, fear not! Changing camber changes toe, and you can check that yourself with a $6 laser level before and after the procedure! Linky
In yet more exciting news, bad camber or toe to one side can easily be seen and felt with a pull and off center steering wheel. So if you're bored you can pull a tire, make an adjustment, put the tire back on, and go for a drive. The worst thing that could happen is you'd still need a pro alignment at the end of the day when all is said and done.
Even now, fear not! Changing camber changes toe, and you can check that yourself with a $6 laser level before and after the procedure! Linky
In yet more exciting news, bad camber or toe to one side can easily be seen and felt with a pull and off center steering wheel. So if you're bored you can pull a tire, make an adjustment, put the tire back on, and go for a drive. The worst thing that could happen is you'd still need a pro alignment at the end of the day when all is said and done.
Originally Posted By: Stu_Rock
Early strut death can happen. I bought a MY2005 car with 45K mi in 2008, and it had one strut with completely blown-out valving.
Early strut death can also happen to replacement parts.
I never see "Economy" struts and shocks last much more than 30,000 miles.
Early strut death can happen. I bought a MY2005 car with 45K mi in 2008, and it had one strut with completely blown-out valving.
Early strut death can also happen to replacement parts.
I never see "Economy" struts and shocks last much more than 30,000 miles.
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