2011 mazda cx-7 turbo

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hey guys. well this is my first post!! yes im a newbie. but def not new to the automotive oil world. in the past i have tried many diffirent oils from castrol to royal purple, mobile 1 and now i am an amsoil guy. my past cars and bikes have ran amsoil (subaru sti, acura rsx & tsx suzuki hayabusa & 1000). but im constantly looking for anything better especially considering cost.
now on to the real reason for this post.
i have a new mazda cx7 turbo (2.3l). its obviously a big mystery as to what oil (it calls for 5w30) it should have in it, especially when talking with dealerships. i have not recived the same answers from anyone. i have talked to numerous service advisors at numerous dealers and talked to some master techs.. all pretty much said something diffirent (use synthetic, dont use it, use ow20, 5w20, if you use those it will blow your motor etc), it was crazy. so thats why i came here.
my first oil change (around 3500 miles. i wanted to get the break in oil out) was just recently. i just went with what the dealer had which was a blend (according to them) either 5w20 or 30 im not sure. i just ordered amsoil signature 5w30.
i recently ran across some threads that were talking about the motor 2.3 mzr. its also found in the mazda speed 3 and 6. it seems that motor oil, as with any vehicle, is very important in choising the correct one. i think there are some threads on here that talk about issues with this motor having issues.
any info, suggestions will be appreciated.
 
The amsoil is very high quality oil.

Everything I read suggests that short oil change intervals are needed on this platform, so you may not even need synthetics. Get a UOA performed so you can learn what works for you and your driving.
 
If it calls for 5w-30 mazda expects some thinning due to fuel contamination. You should stick to severe service oc schedule. Motorcraft is labeled semi synthetic but I think because of the wide spread all major brands and some house brands conventional 5w-30's are also semi synthetic.
 
Pennzoil Platinum & Mobil 1 in the recommended 5w30 meets the Honda/Acura turbo spec. I use PP and it is a good fit as 3 UOA prove. I changed first at 3,000 and then at 6,000 and every 6K thereafter. OEM, MC or WIX filters are good ones
 
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The Mazdaspeed6 guys seem to favor Shell Rotella T6 5W40 and Schaeffer for the DISI. Change intervals vary. But at least the Rotella is readily availiable
 
thanks for the input guys.
it seems the mzr disi motor is prone to getting fuel in the oil due to running so rich (some dyno runs show 10.5/11:1), which im use to with owning a subaru sti. i guess the biggest thing you can do to fight this is frequent oil changes (every 3000 miles i guess). which kinda sucks. also i believe it takes a cartridge filter. i know there is another section for filters but any advice/info on that?
thats the first time ive seen or heard of using rotella 5w40..? i will have to look into that.
since im a newbie im not afraid to ask:
1 what does the 40 represent in 5w40?
2 what is schaeffer?
 
No need to use a non-recommended viscosity in a new car.

I would use Amsoil OE or XL 5W-30 and a good quality filter.

1. 40 represents the 100°C viscosity RANGE specification in SAE J300. 12.6-16.3 cSt@100°C. Here's an ancient table:

http://www.widman.biz/English/Tables/J300.html

2) Schaeffer's is a small oil company. They make a great line of lubricants, but much harder to get ahold of than Amsoil.
 
so your saying i wasted my money by getting the signature series..? i normally use the oe in my other car (05 mazda 6 v6). is there really a substantial difference between the oe and signature?
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo

2) Schaeffer's is a small oil company. They make a great line of lubricants, but much harder to get ahold of than Amsoil.


+1

The Schaeffer users (and not just the 'Speed6 owners) can be a fiercely loyal lot. But it's not something you can find on a weekend like you can with Amsoil. (If you know the right parts store)

The 5W40 thing might have been because of the "smoking turbo" problem on the Mazdaspeed 6 and early Mazdaspeed 3.
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Consensus is that it helps quite a bit.
 
Originally Posted By: whitson01
so your saying i wasted my money by getting the signature series..? i normally use the oe in my other car (05 mazda 6 v6). is there really a substantial difference between the oe and signature?

wasting money in a sense, because it requires more frequent change intervals and signature series is for longer intervals.
 
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PP is well proven in this engine and I am currently using in my MS3. Perhaps it is possible to do better but, you can start with 5,000 mi OCIs with PP and go from there.
 
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Originally Posted By: Persocon
Originally Posted By: whitson01
so your saying i wasted my money by getting the signature series..? i normally use the oe in my other car (05 mazda 6 v6). is there really a substantial difference between the oe and signature?

wasting money in a sense, because it requires more frequent change intervals and signature series is for longer intervals.

ok, so the signature is "better" in a sence cause you can go longer on an oil change..? maybe in my case considering the motor that may not be the best choice..? other than that its pretty much the same as OE? what about the euro formula? i know its about the same as signature series.. any benifit there?
 
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
PP is well proven in this engine and I am currently using in my MS3. Perhaps it is possible to do better but, you can start with 5,000 mi OCIs with PP and go from there.


i just recently changed the oil in my 05 mazda 6 v6 to pennzoil ultra. i guess kinda overkill. im sure premium would have been fine. easy to pick up the 5qt bottle at walmart. about the same as amsoil on price i guess.
 
any more recommendations or info? im still seeing almost scary info on the 2.3 disi motor. mostly due to running rich and fuel getting into the oil.
does some oils handle fuel better than others? what should i look for.
 
I run Red Line 5w30 in my Speed 3 now after researching this for a long time. Look up posts by saber01 I think his name is. My turbo spools up noticeably quicker now & there's no way I'm going back. The Esters in this oil also help w/ intake valve deposits from DI. Again, check his posts out for more info.
 
Ps I don't like the Red Line MT-85 in the tranny I liked the Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS infinitely better than this stuff, which is only a small upgrade from stock. The FM stuff was like night & day.
 
I use PU 5W-30 in my 2010 CX-7 with the turbo along with OEM Mazda filters (I think it is a regular purolator).

I read stories of broken timing chains in the early CX-7's and Mazda wanting receipts for all oil changes to honor the warranty. If you don't have them, they deny the warrantied relair. Due to that, I am running OEM Mazda filters (2010 and up are spin on filters), keeping the receipts and keeping a log of when I do the changes and with what.
 
I've read here, somewhere, that Mazda allows the use of 40-weight in the turbo engines.

If you want to use Amsoil, either XL 10W-40, or Euro 5W-30 or 5W-40 would be good choices.
 
Originally Posted By: BobThe
I use PU 5W-30 in my 2010 CX-7 with the turbo along with OEM Mazda filters (I think it is a regular purolator).

I read stories of broken timing chains in the early CX-7's and Mazda wanting receipts for all oil changes to honor the warranty. If you don't have them, they deny the warrantied relair. Due to that, I am running OEM Mazda filters (2010 and up are spin on filters), keeping the receipts and keeping a log of when I do the changes and with what.

stories like this kinda scare me. im always on top of maintaining my vehicles. but im hoping that most of these situations are a very small number and mostly related to "freak" issues.
also, if im correct, a dealership CAN NOT refuse warranty service due to not having receipts, using another oil weight than what they recommend, using other than oem oil/filter etc.. now if they can IF they can prove neglect then i could see that. but thats it.
 
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